The economy might be in the red, but it's all about pink and yellow at New York Fashion Week
Everyone knows red-soled shoes carry the Christian Louboutin signature, but what about heels with pink and orange bottoms? Next season, those will come courtesy of Matthew Williamson, who sent a confident and colourful (those neons weren’t just restricted to his models’ footwear choices) collection down the runway in New York this morning.
Those unmissable soles – embellishing fin-backed ankle boots and sky-high, zebra-print stilettos – set the tone for a collection designed to lift the spirits on a dull winter’s day. Lavish fur coats and stoles were shaded in blue and orange, multicoloured graphic prints were wildly emblazoned across minidresses and skirts, skintight leather trousers had been dyed turquoise and woollen tunics came dripping in gob-stopper sized jewels fashioned from every colour of the rainbow.
Is Williamson in the slightest bit worried such optimistic brights might jar in a world beset by financial turmoil and strife? Not a bit of it. ‘You have to believe in your vision,’ he told reporters after the show.
Another designer with a vision, albeit a slightly less colourful one is Derek Lam who showed off his latest collection just a few hours after Williamson. Following the British designer’s lead, fur, sequins and leather were in plentiful supply, although those in-your-face neons were replaced with a muted palette of mink, cream, olive and grey, which shaded the elegantly draped dresses, slim-cut trousers and extravagant fur coats to perfection. The only real splash of colour here, a perfectly executed red silk cocktail dress.
The final show of the day – Narciso Rodriguez – also played with colour, mixing the odd bolt of ‘highlighter yellow’ and ‘hot pink’ into a mainly black or black and white camouflage print background.
Here though, the fabrics’ colours were less important than the fabrics themselves, with texture the key which knitted the entire collection together. Viscose knits were mixed with felted wool twill and silk tweeds to create a touchably body-con collection of daytime separates and slinky cocktail dresses.
There was no sign of unofficial Narciso muse Rachel Weisz on the front row, but we think the designer’s A-list fans will be more than happy with his latest offering.
SEE THE DEREK LAM SHOW HERE
Report from Carla Bevan in New York