I’m Tired of Dealing With Split Ends—So I Asked the Experts How to Treat, Trim and Prevent Them

Split ends: nobody wants them, yet somehow we all get them. So, what actually causes them? How can we prevent them? And crucially, can they even be treated? As a beauty writer, talking about how to take care of your hair is pretty much my bread and butter, and I've tried more hair masks, oils and leave-in conditioners than I can count in my quest for healthy hair. But even I don’t have all the answers, so I asked the expert trichologists. Here’s everything they think you need to know...

What causes split ends?

“Split ends occur when the protective outer layer of the hair—the cuticle—becomes damaged or worn away”, says Mark Blake, leading Harley Street Trichologist and Nioxin Ambassador. “Once that happens, the inner fibres start to separate and fray.” According to Blake, this can happen in several ways:

Firstly, “Ignore anyone who says you should brush your hair 100 times a day,” says Blake. Mechanical damage (from things like vigorous towel drying and over-brushing) is something that most of us don’t realise can rough up the cuticle and cause breakage. Another key culprit? Thermal damage. Excessive heat from straighteners, curling tongs, or blow dryers can be very damaging, particularly when used without heat protection.

Blake also points out that chemical damage from bleaching or perming can weaken the cuticle if the hair isn’t properly protected or conditioned afterwards. And environmental damage, like sun exposure, salt water, and even leaving hair wet for long periods, can have more of an impact than you might think. “Hair can absorb around 30% of its own weight in water”, explains Blake, “when it swells like this, it stretches the internal structure and puts pressure on the cell membrane complex—the part that acts like a glue holding the cuticle layers together. If hair stays wet for too long, the cuticle can crack, which can also cause colour to fade.”

It’s also not so much what you do to your hair as the aspects of haircare that you neglect. Blake names infrequent haircuts as another common cause of split ends. “The older the hair, the more weathered it becomes,” Blake explains. “Hair doesn’t regenerate, so wear and tear eventually shows up as splits.” Finally, please don’t skip your conditioner, as they “help flatten and smooth the cuticle layers, which protect the hair fibre and prevent fraying.”

Are there different types of split ends?

“Yes”, says Blake “and some are more common than others.” The classic split end (otherwise known as trichoptilosis), Blake explains, is where the hair splits into two strands at the tip.

You can also have multiple splits, where the hair shaft branches into several strands; feather splits, where tiny micro-splits appear along the hair shaft, creating a feather-like texture; tree splits, where the end of the hair branches into multiple forks, resembling a tree; and mid-shaft splits, where damage appears in the middle of the hair fibre rather than just at the ends.

The rarer form is Trichorrhexis nodosa (or white dots), which occurs when the cuticle becomes severely damaged by heat, chemicals, or friction. In this case, the internal fibres begin to fray and push outward, forming a small node that appears as a white dot.

Which hair types are more prone to split ends?

If you’re reading this and thinking, “I do everything I can to prevent damage, but still somehow end up with split ends,” then you’re not alone. In fact, there are certain hair types that are naturally more vulnerable to split ends, according to Blake. Curly and coily hair, for one, has a structure that is more prone to breakage. “Each bend in the hair fibre creates a natural weak point,” Blake points out, while fine hair has fewer cuticle layers protecting it, making it more vulnerable to damage.

With long hair, the ends are simply older and more weathered, and chemically treated hair has sped up the ‘weathering’ process, making it more fragile earlier. Finally, the porosity of your hair must also be considered. With porous hair, Blake explains that “when the cuticle is lifted or damaged, the hair becomes more susceptible to splitting”. For all of these hair types, it’s even more crucial that you take the necessary steps to prevent damage if you want to avoid split ends.

How can I prevent split ends?

There are many things you can do to strengthen your hair and prevent split ends from forming. Monique McMahon, globally recognised Colour Educator and Pro Brand Ambassador for Christophe Robin, recommends sealing the ends of your hair with soft, natural oils or serums to prevent hair strands from splitting further up the shaft. “One I absolutely love is prickly pear seed oil,” she states, “it has been used by Moroccan women as a beauty treatment for centuries, it’s beautifully absorbed by the hair and naturally regenerates and protects”.

Along with using a decent conditioner, it’s also a good idea to fit a lightweight yet nourishing leave-in product into your hair routine. One McMahon highly recommends is Christophe Robin’s Hydrating Leave-in cream with Aloe vera. “It hydrates, smoothes, and softens the hair as well, plus it has heat protection to shield fragile, split hair from heat damage," she says.

Using a strong heat protector is non-negotiable, according to McMahon, especially if you heat-style your hair often. “I use the Christophe Robin Regenerating Serum with prickly pear oil all the time in the salon when blow drying my client’s hair”, she shares, “it's a light but rich serum formula that won’t weigh down hair or create build up. It works to smooth and hydrate, masking those split ends so you don't even see them anymore, and uses a sugar complex to mimic the feel of silicones and leaves hair glossy, protected, and strong.” If you’re after a super lightweight heat protection spray, I’m a huge fan of Cecred’s new thermal shield mist, which has a barely-there feel, protects the hair up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, and helps to smooth down flyaways.

“Another hot tip for split ends is to reduce friction whenever and wherever you can”, says McMahon, “woollen beanies, synthetic pillowcases, bike helmets, elastic hair ties and plastic hair brushes all create friction that compromises hair integrity and strength, making it more prone to split ends”. When brushing your hair, McMahon suggests using a soft, natural boar-bristle brush (rather than synthetic brushes, which can tear or split hair). Not only is this super gentle on the hair, but it also stimulates the scalp to support healthy growth: “those natural oils from your scalp are an elixir for healthy, split-free hair”, she says.

How you brush and dry your hair also matters. According to McMahon, you should always detangle your hair from the ends up to prevent too much tugging, and once detangled you should brush your hair from root to tip to ensure those nourishing natural oils are evenly distributed down the hair shaft. After washing your hair, McMahon advises squeezing your hair with a soft towel (such as microfibre or jersey cotton) rather than rubbing aggressively, and using a comb rather than a brush to detangle before drying, as wet hair is far more fragile and prone to damage. Using a silk pillowcase, she shares, reduces friction, minimising hair loss while also gently polishing your hair thanks to its natural fibre.

Lastly, don’t forget your scalp! “The healthier your scalp and roots are, the stronger and more resilient your hair will be to splitting”, says McMahon, “I recommend weekly scalp treatments to exfoliate the skin and deep cleanse the roots. My go-to is Christophe Robin’s purifying treatment, which uses crunchy sea salt crystals that emulsify in water to give a really satisfying clean.”

Can split ends be treated?

Unfortunately not. “The reality is hair is dead tissue”, shares Blake, “so once it splits it can’t repair itself, and the only real cure is to cut it off.” McMahon agrees that the only way to stay on top of split ends is through prevention and regular trims—but that doesn’t mean getting a dramatic chop every few months. She recommends having ‘baby trims’ every six to eight weeks as the best way to prevent split ends. “Even one to two millimeters is all you need to have those split ends under control in no time”, she shares, “it also helps to protect your cuticles, so fewer splits.”

But if you have chronic split ends or can’t really afford super regular trims, there are some products that can improve the appearance of split ends, helping you stretch between hair appointments. Hair oils, for example, can be used to make split ends look smoother, stop them from traveling further up the hair shaft, and prevent new ones from forming. Argan oil is one of McMahon’s go-tos: “a few drops will make the ends look visibly more polished by smoothing and sealing those split ends.”

Hair treatments can also be a huge help. McMahon suggests adding a protein or strengthening in-salon treatment to strengthen hair bonds and prevent further splitting. “These treatments stop the splits from traveling further up the hair shaft”. As with most things in life, though, prevention is always better than the cure, so while you won't be able to reverse them once they've taken hold, at least now you’re well equipped to prevent hair breakage and avoid split ends for good.