Keratosis Pilaris: The Expert Guide to Treating the Bumpy, Rough Skin Condition

It’s officially spring. The cherry blossoms are blossoming, the ‘groundbreaking floral’ quotes are circulating, and you’re probably starting to expose the occasional arm or leg as the weather *finally* warms up. If you have keratosis pilaris, you might be thinking about how best to hydrate and soften any areas affected.

KP (as it’s known for short) is quite common (it affects 1 in 3 people in the UK) and actually pretty harmless. Distinguished by raised bumps on the skin that resemble goosebumps, and often referred to as ‘chicken skin’, keratosis pilaris is usually painless. But let’s be honest, the rough, dry texture can be a bit annoying – particularly now summer is on the horizon. So if you’re intrigued to know what causes KP, whether it can be treated, and how to manage it if you have particularly sensitive skin, I’ve got you. I reached out to Dermatologist and founder of Libi and Daughters, Dr Inna Szalontay and Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillps for their expert insights.

If you’re after the best products to improve the appearance of KP, Marie Claire’s beauty editor Nessa has rounded up her tried and tested favourites (and trust me – she’s tested a fair few). But for an in-depth look at keratosis pilaris, read on for our experts’ two cents.

What is keratosis pilaris?

Consultant Dermatologist Dr Derrick, explains: “keratosis pilaris (KP) is a common skin condition that manifests as small, rough bumps on the skin. These bumps are painless and typically appear around hair follicles. They’re caused by an excess buildup of keratin, a protein that forms the outer layer of skin, hair and nails. The keratin blocks the hair follicles, creating a rough, bumpy texture which often resembles goosebumps”.

Dr. Inna adds, “It most commonly appears on the upper arms, thighs, buttocks, or cheeks and may look slightly red, skin-coloured, or brown. It is not contagious or dangerous and is more frequently seen in children, teenagers, and individuals with dry skin or eczema.”

What causes KP?

Unlike some skin conditions which can be caused by environmental triggers, it’s pretty hard to explain why keratosis pilaris affects some people and not others. “KP is caused by a build-up of keratin, a natural protein that protects the skin”, explains Dr Inna, “in some individuals, excess keratin blocks the hair follicles, leading to the characteristic bumps”.

“It’s believed to have a genetic component and often runs in families”, continues Dr Derrick, “people with dry skin conditions like eczema are more likely to develop it.” So if you’re particularly prone to dry skin, or your parents have KP, you’re more likely to develop it yourself.

What are the best ways to treat KP?

With both of our experts, the consensus is clear: although treatment is not medically necessary, the most effective way to improve the appearance of keratosis pilaris is to focus on gentle exfoliation and consistent hydration. “Ingredients such as urea, lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid can help to soften and break down the keratin build-up within the hair follicles, improving the skin’s texture over time”, says Dr Derrick, and “mandelic acid can also be a useful option, particularly for more sensitive skin types, as it offers gentle exfoliation with a lower risk of irritation”. Keeping the skin well hydrated is also essential, he stresses, “supporting the skin barrier helps to reduce dryness, which can otherwise make the condition appear more noticeable”.

“In some cases”, he continues, “topical retinoids may be recommended to help normalise cell turnover and reduce follicular plugging. For more persistent or treatment-resistant cases, in-clinic options such as chemical peels or laser treatments can be considered, but these work best when combined with a consistent, well-balanced at-home routine.”

So on the whole, a consistent and gentle skincare routine is your best bet. According to Dr Inna, it’s also just as important to avoid factors that may worsen the condition, such as harsh scrubbing or aggressive exfoliation, picking or squeezing the bumps, taking very hot showers or baths, using strong soaps or heavily fragranced products, and wearing tight clothing that causes friction.

How to treat KP in children

Most treatments for keratosis pilaris contain strong active ingredients, but how to find the right balance between gentle and effective treatment when it comes to managing KP in children? Once again, our expert dermatologists are in agreement: “treatment in children should be especially gentle”, says Dr Inna, “regular moisturising with mild, nourishing products is usually sufficient”. Dr Derrick suggests you “focus on supporting the skin barrier rather than aggressively treating it.”

In terms of best products to use, he advises a “simple, regular use of moisturisers containing ingredients such as low-strength urea (around 5–10%) or lactic acid can help to soften the keratin build-up and smooth the skin over time. The emphasis should be on consistency rather than intensity”. He continues, “in most cases, keratosis pilaris in children is entirely harmless and tends to improve with age, so a calm, low-intervention approach is usually the most appropriate.”

In most cases (and especially when dealing with particularly sensitive skin), natural remedies can be incredibly effective while still remaining super gentle on the skin. Dr Inna suggests a soothing oatmeal and honey mask for both children and adults with sensitive skin. Find the recipe below:

• 2 tbsp finely ground oatmeal
• 1 tbsp honey (if no allergy)
• 1 tbsp plain yogurt
• 1 tsp coconut oil (optional)
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 1–2 tsp rice starch

Mix all ingredients into a thick paste. Apply to clean, slightly damp skin and gently massage in circular motions for 30–60 seconds. Leave on for 10–15 minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry. This can be used 2–3 times per week. Avoid harsh scrubbing, as gentle care is more effective.

Expert-recommended products for keratosis pilaris:

In terms of treatment, what products would our experts recommend for helping to improve the appearance of KP? “When it comes to keratosis pilaris, I tend to recommend products that combine gentle exfoliation with barrier support, rather than anything overly aggressive” says Dr Derrick.