When it comes to hair growth, sadly there isn’t a quick fix. It can take time, money and trial and error to find what works for your hair type. But hair growth and too-good-to-be-true solutions are all the rage right now, especially on TikTok. Naturally, this has caused some confusion when it comes to hair oils and hair growth.
It’s fair to say that we’ve never been more obsessed with oils for hair growth and thinning than now; in part thanks to rosemary oil well and truly going bonkers on TikTok. But while the impact of oils on hair growth might be limited, there are huge benefits to having the product in your routine line-up. We called in the help of two experts to find out everything you need to know about hair oils, and which are our favourites.
Can oils help with hair growth?
Let’s clear up some confusion. Although TikTok has led us to believe that oil — specifically the rosemary kind — is the key to all our growth woes, that’s not always the case. Unfortunately, “there is very little to no scientific evidence that hair oils help to promote hair growth,” explains trichologist Angela Onuoha. A 2015 study did find that rosemary increased hair growth over a 6 month period, and although this is promising, don’t expect this to be some kind of miracle cure. There are many factors that determine hair growth. This 2020 study looking into central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) specifically found no natural ingredients, including rosemary oil, to have any benefit to patients. It's always worth remember that not everyone's wonder product, or ingredient, is the same.
When it comes to what oils can definitely do for our hair, “is give you length retention,” which is where Angela believes the confusion comes from. “When you apply oil to your hair it basically lubricates the hair shaft, which works as a little protective layer against friction,” explains Angela. “This is especially important to reduce the friction whenever you comb or brush your hair, or when it’s rubbing against your clothes and or pillow. Less friction means less shaft damage, which leads to less breakage overtime.” Less breakage, therefore, means length is being retained, which can look like your hair is growing faster than before. “In reality, your hair is just healthier, which allows it to grow longer without breaking,” she adds.
How to apply hair oil?
When it comes to choosing a hair oil, Angela recommends going for something lightweight or silicone-based oil and to apply it on a daily basis. This keeps your hair feeling and looking great whilst doing their job, but not creating build-up. “If you’re going for [oils that are] too thick, like castor oil, it will cause quicker build up forming over time and due to its stickiness it makes it very easy for things like dust to stick to it. Rather, go for a lighter one and use a little bit more depending on your hair density,” explains Angela.
It’s worth finding the right oil for you though, “there are so many benefits, including preventing hair breakage and split ends, as well as eliminating frizz,” says Hairstylist and hair extensions specialist Abigail Butler. Most of all, oils help condition the hair, which naturally repels water, especially if you have low porosity hair.
When it comes to hair oils for wigs and extensions, “using sulphate-free and alcohol-free products are essential to maintaining healthy hair extensions and looking after your wig. Make sure your hair extensions and wigs are nourished, especially if they are 100% human hair,” Abigail says. "Oils are fantastic at creating a luxurious feel to your wig and hair extensions, especially if they are light to leave your hair feeling silky smooth,” she adds.
Limitations of hair oil
As discussed before, there are absolutely limitations of hair oil. Angela warns against thinking it’s a cure to everything. “There is no one cure for all hair problems. See [hair oil] as a film former, a thin coat to protect the hair from the outside. Friction is one of our biggest enemies when it comes to hair, so in this case, hair oils are your best friend when it comes to that!” she adds.
Best hair oils for hair growth
1. Olaplex No7 Bonding Oil
Abigail recommends the Olaplex No7 bonding treatment for her clients for a lightweight, reparative and heat-protecting formula. This treatment is fantastic if you’re focused on hair growth and often heat or colour treat your hair.
2. Mielle Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil
Abigail also loves the Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint growth hair oil, which has over 30 essential oils in the formula. Don’t be using this as a miracle treatment though, it can yield impressive results, but no product is a miracle worker.
3. Arkive Good Habit Hybrid Oil
Small but mighty, the Arkive Good Habit Hybrid Oil is a fabulous multi-purpose oil. This ultra lightweight oil contains baobab and jojoba oils to smooth and shine each strand. If you’re focused on hair health and growth, this oil can also be used as a treatment.
4. Moroccanoil Treatment
This is a highly acclaimed hair oil for a reason. Thanks to its argan-packed formula, it can help keep flyaways under control, meaning often people don’t need to blow dry and straighten their hair as much; or for as long. This, in turn, can help with hair growth due to the improved condition of your strands.
5. Vegamour Gro Hair Serum
Specifically designed for hair growth, Vegamour’s Gro Serum has hundreds of 5-star reviews for a reason. Of course, there are many factors that contribute to hair loss (and growth) but this treatment contains ingredients like red clover, thought to help inhibit the hormone DHT, which can lead to hair thinning.
6. Ruka Hair Serum
Okay, technically this isn’t an oil but it deserves a spot in this list. Created specifically for afro hair, this serum works as a protective barrier for the hair and helps retain the length of your hair and create smoothness and reduce dry lengths and ends.
7. Fable and Mane Holiroots Hair Oil
Fable and Mane’s Holiroots Oil really does keep hair feeling like it’s freshly washed and styled. This is a pre-wash treatment that is designed to stimulate the scalp to promote hair growth, as well as protect precious strands. Plus, it’s got a really elegant scent.
8. Bread Beauty Supply Everyday Gloss Hair Oil
Specifically formulated for type 3c to 4a hair, Bread Beauty Supply’s Everyday Gloss Hair Oil helps to define, detangle and de-frizz. It’s thicker than some oils out there, so use sparingly, but coats the hair beautifully for lots of added moisture.
10. ByErim Luxury Hair Oil
It doesn’t get much classier than By Erim when it comes to hair oils. This formula contains eight hard-working oils to create a consistency that’s non-greasy, lightweight and doesn’t cause build-up.
11. Percy and Reed Wonder Treatment Oil
Percy and Reed has hair oils for incredible shine down to a fine art and the Wonder Treatment Oil is no different. A little goes a long way and if used sparingly, you’ll have zero greasy residue but glossy ends.