The Pony Hair Effect: The Leather Trend That Will Make You Rethink Your Commitment to Suede

Many of us spend a not insignificant amount of money, not to mention time, on hair removal, a fact of life that makes one of this season’s breakout fashion trends even more titillating. It’s almost like the gods are trolling us, in fact, because being spotted on bags, coats, skirts, you name it, is so-called pony hair.

The clue’s in the name. Pony hair is leather that’s been left “natural” so to speak, with a hairy surface as opposed to a buttery-smooth one. As you might expect, it has a rather coarse texture, with its wiry hairs creating a surprisingly robust coating.

I first noticed it appeared to be “a thing” when scrolling on COS. The retailer’s new arrivals section contains several pony-hair garments—and just type “pony” into its search bar if you like what you see for there’s more, plenty more, where that came from. I clicked through most of them in the name of research—miniskirts, midi skirts, jackets, belts—and quickly discovered that almost everything is selling out. Clearly, there’s a rush on pony hair for a reason.

COS’ collared jacket, cut to hit a little past the hip with pockets just below the waistline, is particularly special. (As is this shorter version, which has cross-over lapels and slightly more volume.) The fabrication gives the surface a sheen, the opposite of leather’s matte appearance, which adds interest. Imagine it with head-to-toe black (as it’s styled in the e-commerce images), the ever-so-slight glimmer adding a texture into the outfit’s story to provide contrast, yes, but also something of the unexpected.

Another brand that has plenty of experience when it comes to pony hair is Aeyde. The Berlin-based shoemaker has pony hair pumps, knee-high boots and Mary-Janes, while its pre-spring collection dropping later this month features a particularly enticing ankle boot: pointed, leopard-spotted and crafted of pony hair. The brand's founder and creative director, Luisa Dames, explains the appeal of pony hair: "It adds depth and character to a silhouette. The texture catches the light differently, giving the pieces a sense of organic movement. For us at Aeyde, pony hair is a way to introduce contrast and sensuality into minimal design—it feels instinctive, slightly wild, and luxurious."

Animal-printed pony hair might sound like too much of a good thing, but not so. Arket’s pony-hair ballet pumps are zebra-striped, although an easier-to-style buff colour rather than white, and guaranteed to add fabulousness to your favourite “jumper and jeans” combo this January. Jimmy Choo’s leopard-printed shoulder bag, meanwhile, is now on sale at Net-a-Porter.

And as for how to care for your pony hair? Dames recommends avoiding water as much as possible. "Pony hair is sensitive and should be kept dry," she says, adding, "Gently brush the hair in its natural direction with a soft brush or cloth to remove dust and maintain texture." Her final word of advice? "Store the shoes in a dust bag, away from direct sunlight." All together, it's a fairly low-maintenance fabric, with the hair creating a kind of barrier to scuffing. Yet another reason to go consider going "au naturel" this season.

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