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    1. Fashion

    How Dakota Johnson’s Style Went From Indie Darling to High-Fashion Hollywood Vamp

    Inside the actor's sultry fashion transformation, and the Kate Young effect

    Mischa Anouk Smith's avatar
    By Mischa Anouk Smith
    Published 3 November 2025 In Features

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    Dakota Johnson style evolution
    Dakota Johnson's style evolution
    (Image credit: Getty Images)
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    Cast your mind back, if you will, to 2010, a time when Christian Grey hadn’t yet been unleashed upon the world and Dakota Johnson had blonde hair and no fringe. Even then, Dakota Johnson wasn’t exactly an ‘unknown’—her parents were ’80s Hollywood royalty, and her grandmother is Tippi Hedren, one of Hitchcock’s famous blondes and the subject of a biopic, The Girl, featuring Sienna Miller. But still, in those halcyon days of the internet, she wasn’t the Hollywood behemoth she is today either. Naturally, this was reflected in her clothes, which, going off Getty alone, largely consisted of black skinny jeans tucked into pirate boots and wafty peasant blouses. There was also a lot of dangly jewellery and billowy batwing sleeves—the girl liked a drape!

    I am—without disclosing too much information—around the same age as Dakota Johnson, so I remember this time all too vividly. While it might not look it to today’s eye, Dakota Johnson circa 2010 was dressing like the coolest girl in your uni town, with just a smattering of Effie from Skins—tousled hair, alabaster complexion—to really set things off.

    Dakota Johnson 2010–2015

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    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX on June 17, 2014 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson in LA in 2014. (Image credit: Bauer-Griffin/GC Images via Getty Images)
    Actress Dakota Johnson arrives at the GQ Men of the Year Party at Chateau Marmont on November 13, 2012 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Jeff Vespa/Getty Images For GQ)
    Dakota Johnson in 2012 at the GQ Men of the Year Party at Chateau Marmont in LA. (Image credit: Jeff Vespa/Getty Images For GQ)
    Dakota Johnson attends Art of Elysium "Bright Lights" with VERSUS by Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane at Milk Studios on April 30, 2010 in New York City. (Photo by Andrew H. Walker/WireImage for VERSUS)
    Dakota Johnson in 2010 in New York City. (Image credit: Andrew H. Walker/WireImage for VERSUS via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson attends the 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 5, 2014 in New York City. (Photo by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic)
    Dakota Johnson in 2014 at the 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. (Image credit: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson arrives to Nylon Magazine's June/July music issue launch party held at SkyBar at the Mondrian Los Angeles on June 22, 2010 in West Hollywood, California. (Photo by Michael Tran/FilmMagic)
    Dakota Johnson at Nylon Magazine's June/July music issue launch party in 2010. (Image credit: Michael Tran/FilmMagic viaGetty Images)
    Actress Dakota Johnson arrives at the 2011 InStyle And Warner Bros. 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards post-party held at The Beverly Hilton hotel on January 16, 2011 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Lester Cohen/WireImage)
    Dakota Johnson at at the 2011 InStyle And Warner Bros. 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards after-party. (Image credit: Lester Cohen/WireImage via Getty Images)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX on June 17, 2014 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
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    Actress Dakota Johnson arrives at the GQ Men of the Year Party at Chateau Marmont on November 13, 2012 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Jeff Vespa/Getty Images For GQ)
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    Dakota Johnson attends Art of Elysium "Bright Lights" with VERSUS by Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane at Milk Studios on April 30, 2010 in New York City. (Photo by Andrew H. Walker/WireImage for VERSUS)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion' Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 5, 2014 in New York City. (Photo by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic)
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    Dakota Johnson arrives to Nylon Magazine's June/July music issue launch party held at SkyBar at the Mondrian Los Angeles on June 22, 2010 in West Hollywood, California. (Photo by Michael Tran/FilmMagic)
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    Actress Dakota Johnson arrives at the 2011 InStyle And Warner Bros. 68th Annual Golden Globe Awards post-party held at The Beverly Hilton hotel on January 16, 2011 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Lester Cohen/WireImage)

    Even so, the makings of a Hollywood vamp were there. At the 2012 GQ Men of the Year Party—held at the legendary gothic Chateau Marmont—she wore black reptile-effect skinny jeans and a long-sleeved lace top, her bandeau bra peeking out from beneath. The following year, at the LACMA Art + Film Gala, she arrived in an ethereal Gucci gown direct from the runway. By 2014, she was at the Met in an ink- and raven-black gown designed by Jason Wu (she was his guest), complete with satin evening gloves, a slick of vermilion lipstick, and the soon-to-be-famous bangs. Her off-duty wardrobe still carried many of the era’s tropes though: banged-up Converse, vintage band tees, and the ever-present skinnies.

    Dakota Johnson in 2015

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    Dakota Johnson attends the UK Premiere of "Fifty Shades Of Grey" at Odeon Leicester Square on February 12, 2015 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/WireImage)
    Dakota Johnson in 2015 at the UK Premiere of "Fifty Shades Of Grey" in London. (Image credit: Dave M. Benett/WireImage via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX airport on June 05, 2015 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Light Brigade/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson at LAX airport in 2015. (Image credit: Light Brigade/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson and Matthew Hitt seen in NoHo on October 9, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Robert Kamau/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson and Matthew Hitt in NoHo, New York in 2015. (Image credit: Robert Kamau/GC Images via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson attends the opening event for the Michael Kors Ginza Flagship Store on November 20, 2015 in Tokyo, Japan. (Photo by Koki Nagahama/Getty Images for Michael Kors)
    Dakota Johnson at the opening event for the Michael Kors Ginza Flagship Store in 2015. (Image credit: Koki Nagahama/Getty Images for Michael Kors.)
    Dakota Johnson and actor Jamie Dornan attend the 'Fifty Shades of Grey' premiere during the 65th Berlinale International Film Festival at Zoo Palast on February 11, 2015 in Berlin, Germany.
    Dakota Johnson and Jamie Dornan on the red carpet at the 'Fifty Shades of Grey' premiere in 2015. (Image credit: Pascal Le Segretain via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson is seen taking break from filming of 'How To Be Single' to join Matthew Hitt for lunch on May 20, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Alessio Botticelli/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson and Matthew Hitt in 2015 in New York City. (Image credit: Alessio Botticelli/GC Images via Getty Images)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the UK Premiere of "Fifty Shades Of Grey" at Odeon Leicester Square on February 12, 2015 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/WireImage)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX airport on June 05, 2015 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Light Brigade/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
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    Dakota Johnson and Matthew Hitt seen in NoHo on October 9, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Robert Kamau/GC Images)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the opening event for the Michael Kors Ginza Flagship Store on November 20, 2015 in Tokyo, Japan. (Photo by Koki Nagahama/Getty Images for Michael Kors)
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    Dakota Johnson and actor Jamie Dornan attend the 'Fifty Shades of Grey' premiere during the 65th Berlinale International Film Festival at Zoo Palast on February 11, 2015 in Berlin, Germany.
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    Dakota Johnson is seen taking break from filming of 'How To Be Single' to join Matthew Hitt for lunch on May 20, 2015 in New York City. (Photo by Alessio Botticelli/GC Images)

    Fifty Shades of Grey sent Dakota Johnson’s star into the stratosphere, which, of course, meant more red carpet appearances—but that’s not to say she totally shed her grunge flourishes. At the film’s UK premiere, she layered a studded leather jacket over a Grecian white gown by Saint Laurent. Back in New York (and back in a pair of second-skin jeans), she was spotted wearing lace-up Victoriana booties and an oversized blazer while out with then-boyfriend Matthew Hitt—if you needed proof of his indie credentials: he’d previously dated Alexa Chung, and there’s a whole Pinterest board dedicated to him and his mop of curly dark hair. He wears a skinny tie in more than one photo.

    Dakota Johnson in 2017

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    Dakota Johnson arrives at the 89th Annual Academy Awards at Hollywood & Highland Center on February 26, 2017 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)
    Dakota Johnson at the 89th Annual Academy Awards in 2017. (Image credit: Steve Granitz/WireImage via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX on May 05, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by starzfly/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson at LAX in 2017. (Image credit: starzfly/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images) via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson attends the 'Fifty Shades Darker' movie premiere at Kinepolis Cinema in Madrid on Feb 8, 2017 (Photo by Gabriel Maseda/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson at the 'Fifty Shades Darker' movie premiere in 2017. (Image credit: Gabriel Maseda/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson is seen on May 03, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Gardiner Anderson/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson in New York City in 2017. (Image credit: Gardiner Anderson/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson attends the 2017 LACMA Art + Film gala at LACMA on November 4, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic)
    Dakota Johnson at the 2017 LACMA Art + Film gala at LACMA in 2017. (Image credit: Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic via Getty Images)
    attends the "Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art Of The In-Between" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 1, 2017 in New York City.
    Dakota Johnson at the "Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art Of The In-Between" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum in 2017. (Image credit: Getty Images)
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    Dakota Johnson arrives at the 89th Annual Academy Awards at Hollywood & Highland Center on February 26, 2017 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen at LAX on May 05, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by starzfly/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the 'Fifty Shades Darker' movie premiere at Kinepolis Cinema in Madrid on Feb 8, 2017 (Photo by Gabriel Maseda/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen on May 03, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Gardiner Anderson/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the 2017 LACMA Art + Film gala at LACMA on November 4, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Jason LaVeris/FilmMagic)
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    attends the "Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art Of The In-Between" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 1, 2017 in New York City.

    Around the time of the Fifty Shades of Grey sequel, Dakota Johnson started working with stylist Kate Young, who ushered in a bolder and more luxurious era. At the 2017 Oscars, she wore a shimmering gold gown by Gucci, styled by Young, that featured a high neck, long sleeves, and tulip-leg slit—it was a departure from earlier red carpet experiences and notably more fashion-forward, insofar as it strayed from the typically sexy dresses that are par for the course at such events. Under Young’s direction, she shifted from indie minimalism to red-carpet authority, adopting a classic Hollywood glamour that nodded to her cinematic pedigree.

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    Dakota Johnson 2020-2025

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    Dakota Johnson attends The 2022 Met Gala Celebrating "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 02, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic)
    Dakota Johnson at the 2022 Met Gala Celebrating "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (Image credit: Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson attends the Gucci fashion show on February 19, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/WireImage)
    Dakota Johnson at the Gucci fashion show in Milan in 2020. (Image credit: Jacopo Raule/WireImage via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson is seen at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023/24 on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
    Dakota Johnson at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023/24. (Image credit: Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
    Dakota Johnson is seen on November 14, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Patricia Schlein/Star Max/GC Images)
    Dakota Johnson in 2023 in New York City. (Image credit: Patricia Schlein/Star Max/GC Images via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson poses at the Opening Green Carpet for the 21st Zurich Film Festival at Kongresshaus on September 25, 2025 in Zurich, Switzerland. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for ZFF)
    Dakota Johnson at the Opening Green Carpet for the 21st Zurich Film Festival in 2025. (Image credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for ZFF))
    Dakota Johnson at the Kering Caring For Women Dinner during New York Fashion Week held at The Grill on September 11, 2025 in New York, New York. (Photo by Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)
    Dakota Johnson at the Kering Caring For Women Dinner during New York Fashion Week 2025 in New York. (Image credit: Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)
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    Dakota Johnson attends The 2022 Met Gala Celebrating "In America: An Anthology of Fashion" at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 02, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic)
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    Dakota Johnson attends the Gucci fashion show on February 19, 2020 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/WireImage)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023/24 on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
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    Dakota Johnson is seen on November 14, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Patricia Schlein/Star Max/GC Images)
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    Dakota Johnson poses at the Opening Green Carpet for the 21st Zurich Film Festival at Kongresshaus on September 25, 2025 in Zurich, Switzerland. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for ZFF)
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    Dakota Johnson at the Kering Caring For Women Dinner during New York Fashion Week held at The Grill on September 11, 2025 in New York, New York. (Photo by Lexie Moreland/WWD via Getty Images)

    The years that followed saw Johnson and Young push the style envelope further. They explored editorial silhouettes, textures, and a deepening relationship with Gucci’s aesthetic. At the 2022 Met Gala, Johnson appeared in a custom Gucci catsuit and cape, replete with piercing Louboutin pumps and dangly earrings (very 2010-coded). Off-duty outfits, too, became more elevated: sharp blazers and subtle embellishments that speak to Dakota’s position in the world of high fashion without losing her indie roots.

    The transformation, spearheaded by Young, is about more than just fabric and labels. The gold Gucci gown at the Oscars announced her transition to spectacle. The Met Gala catsuit signalled risk and high-fashion play. Young’s role has been pivotal—not just selecting looks, but shaping Johnson’s fashion identity. In an interview with British Vogue, Young said she wants to “represent who people are … in a way that’s also relevant in the fashion world,” and Dakota Johnson’s changing style is perhaps the perfect example of that. The artistry has been elevated, but there’s still so much of Johnson’s personality in each outfit; it feels like a natural evolution rather than a Hollywood star simply trying on a new persona for size.

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    Today, Dakota Johnson’s red carpet style is unmistakably femme fatale, with lashings of sheer lace and an enviable collection of bodysuits and “naked” dresses. A standout moment came during Milan Fashion Week 2023 when she wore a sheer Gucci bodysuit with an open blazer, mini skirt, and knee-high boots. More recently, at the 2025 Zurich Film Festival, she arrived in a custom cobalt-blue Gucci gown with a high-neck lace bodice and voluminous skirt, styled by Young. The result is a wardrobe that exudes strength and sensuality. With Kate Young’s styling as a through-line, the journey from indie darling to commanding glamour not only makes sense, it feels organic. 2025 might go down as the year that goths stormed the fashion scene (see Goth Girl Summer, Summerween beauty and soon: Gothmas), but Dakota Johnson has always dabbled in the sultry and the sensual.

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    Mischa Anouk Smith is the News and Features Editor of Marie Claire UK, commissioning and writing in-depth features on culture, politics, and issues that shape women’s lives. Her work blends sharp cultural insight with rigorous reporting, from pop culture and technology to fertility, work, and relationships. Mischa’s investigations have earned awards and led to appearances on BBC Politics Live and Woman’s Hour. For her investigation into rape culture in primary schools, she was shortlisted for an End Violence Against Women award. She previously wrote for Refinery29, Stylist, Dazed, and Far Out.

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