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  • Eco eat in North London

    Where? 10 Orsman Road, London N1 (020-7033 0123)

    Waterhouse? Give me a clue. Seafood? By a beach? It’s on a canal, but the real hook is that it’s an eco site.

    How so? It’s located in a new building, with all the latest eco-technology built in.

    And that’s good? Eating with a view of the canal is made even better by the knowledge that the water flowing past is being harnessed to create the hydro-electric power that cooks your brunch. It also contributes to the cooling and heating system, alongside roof-mounted solar panels and photovoltaic cells.

    Photovoltaic cells, eh? Don’t mock, or I’ll introduce you to the wormery, followed by a visit to the hot composter. Or the bokashi system, which transforms used cooking oil into compost.

    Don’t tell me, ingredients are sourced locally and the menu’s printed on recycled cardboard… The exec chef is Roux trained, so this isn’t your average fare. Think modern British with a comforting rusticity that suits the laid-back atmosphere. Perry (pear cider) and parsnip soup was a heart-warmer, while the slow-roast lamb with mint had the perfect melt-in-the mouth quality.

    And for afters? Bitter chocolate tarte, floating islands and a plate of British cheeses. All washed down with English wine, and water bottled on the premises.

    Not from the canal, I hope? They have a Greencare H20 filtration system, which provides them with bottled, filtered water.

    Bet that’s popular. It is. As is the Sunday brunch, when the place is packed. Most of the worthy stuff – power generation, food sourcing, etc – goes on behind the scenes, so you’d hardly notice while tucking into your slow roast.

    You haven’t mentioned the paperless loos. No. But you just did. So I won’t have to.

    Other restaurants with a conscience:
    Konstam, 2 Acton Street, London WC1X (020-7833 5040)
    Bordeaux Quay, V-Shed, Canons Way Bristol (0117-943 1200)

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