A little slice of Mayfair comes to Cookham Dean
Where? The Inn on the Green, The Old Cricket Common, Cookham Dean, Berkshire, SL6 9NZ (01628 482638, www.cookhamdean.com)
So who’s behind this little gem? Restaurateur Mark Fuller and Michelin-starred chef Garry Hollihead bought The Inn on the Green as a countryside companion to their famous Embassy restaurant and members’ bar in Mayfair. And while the setting itself couldn’t be further from Mayfair’s hedge fund-heavy streets, the standards are just as high. (The Iron Maiden gold discs on the walls are courtesy of co-owner and former Sanctuary music boss Andy Taylor.)
Why go? For a little break from the norm. While the lounge area as you enter has the laidback feel of a country pub, the three restaurant rooms – tables are spread between the conservatory, the chandelier-lit Lamp Room and Swiss chalet-style Stublie – are as slick and refined as you’ll find in the country’s best eateries. Upstairs, meanwhile, there are nine boutique hotel rooms, all individually designed and unique in their own way.
To eat? The ‘modern British’ menu changes regularly, but you’ll find a good mix of locally sourced fish and meat dishes, as well as imaginative vegetarian offerings each time you visit. My main of battered cod and fat chips (£17) might have been the most sinful choice on the menu, but elicited serious food envy moans from the boyfriend who’d plumped for the more healthy lemon sole with mash and green beans. For dessert, lemon tart with mascarpone ice cream (£6.50) packed a delicious, citrusy punch.
Need to know? Dinner is served Tuesday to Saturday from 7pm until 10pm; Sunday lunch is served from 1pm until 4pm.
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