Is This the Future of Hair Colour? How I Changed My Shade Without Dye

Hair extensions have long carried an unfair stigma, shaped by visible tapes, grown-out bonds and obvious application. In reality, when applied with skill and restraint, they offer one of the most seamless transformations in modern hair artistry. For years, I’ve worn hair extensions to pad things out—a bit more length, a lot more density. But I have never considered them to ‘colour’ my hair—until now. Extensions are being used to do the work colour does—lifting, brightening, adding dimension—without using chemical dyes at all.

What are hair colour extensions?

Modern extensions offer nuanced, blended, and rooted colour ranges. The goal isn’t drama; it’s believability. As Victoria Lynch, CEO and founder of Remi Cachet puts it: “When used correctly, extensions allow you to add dimension and brightness without repeatedly exposing natural hair to bleach. For many clients, they’re a protective strategy rather than a risk, especially when growing hair out or preserving density.”

Extension expert Elliot Caffrey has seen this evolution firsthand. “Colour-matched extensions have come such a long way,” he says. “Ten years ago, you were stuck with basic, solid colours. Now the ranges are expansive enough to get an accurate match or create a blend, depending on the look.” He adds that much of his work focuses on developing those colour ranges to keep up with fast-moving trends—think ash bases, lived-in blondes, and ‘old money’ brunettes rather than flat platinum.

What happened when I gave colour extensions a go

My current hair colour was verging on too light, and I’d always fancied trying a multi-tonal blonde with more depth and a hint of warmth, but never had the guts to do it with ‘real’ colour. So, I decided to give colour extensions a go. “Over-lightening can make hair look flatter rather than brighter," explains Poppy Saunders of PS Hair Co and Remi Cachet Extensionist of the Year 2025. "The approach for Charley was about restoring dimension, not darkening her overall look. We introduced soft, colour-matched lowlights, blending neutral-beige and warm honey tones through the mid-lengths and crown to enhance her natural skin tone."

It's these multiple layers that allow a successful colour blend and avoid a 'stripy' finish. “True blending is about multi-tonal matching, not single-shade perfection,” explains Lynch. "And placement is everything: keeping the depth away from the hairline and concentrating it underneath ensures the result feels natural and expensive rather than blocky."

Caffrey agrees—and gets very specific about placement. “If I’m creating a blend using two colours, I would never position those together side by side,” he says. “I alternate placement so the colour seamlessly blends. Natural, ash-base and blended blondes are the norm now, so mastering these techniques is essential.” In other words, the modern approach mimics how colour grows naturally, rather than sitting on top of the hair like an Instagram filter.

What works—and what doesn’t

Not every colouring technique translates well to extensions, and that’s where honesty comes in. High-contrast, block colour tends to look exactly like what it is. Softer techniques, on the other hand, thrive. “Balayage and soft highlights translate beautifully because they’re about flow and placement,” says Lynch. “Face-framing pieces work particularly well with ultra-fine tapes or discreet bonds. High-contrast colour doesn’t translate as naturally — extensions are best used to enhance, not overpower.”

Caffrey mentions the popularity of blended blondes and brunettes, in which lightness is concentrated at the front and crown, while depth is maintained in the back. “Mixing different shades allows you to create brightness without losing dimension,” he explains. It’s subtle, grown-up colour—the kind that makes people ask where you get your hair done, not what you’ve had done.

The technique should serve the colour

There’s no one-size-fits-all method, which is why consultations matter. “Tapes are ideal for seamless brightness and movement,” says Lynch. “Bonds offer precision for contouring around the face, and wefts work well for global depth. The technique should always serve the colour, not the other way around.” Caffrey’s preferred mix? Wefts at the back for density, tapes at the front for lightness. Lightweight, discreet and adaptable to how clients actually wear their hair day to day, which, frankly, is the difference between loving your extensions and resenting them.

Maintenance: less than bleach, more than nothing

Here’s the part that needs saying plainly: extensions are not wash-and-go. “If someone expects extensions to behave like their natural hair with zero care, they’re not the right solution,” Lynch says. Her advice is to treat them “like luxury fabric”—sulphate-free products, cool water, minimal heat and plenty of hydration. Extensions don’t receive natural oils, so moisture matters more than pigment.

Very active lifestyles or ultra-minimal routines can make extensions feel like a chore. In those cases, strategic cutting, glossing or subtle root-lift techniques can still deliver dimension without added maintenance. That said, extensions don’t have to mean a full head or dramatic transformation. “So many of my clients have small amounts added purely for colour and brightness,” says Caffrey. Less hair equals lower maintenance—and often better results.

Clip-in, clip-out route

If you want even less commitment, clip-in extensions are the perfect way to add colour, whether it's for a one-night event or to try a shade before you commit to the chemical route. It's a backstage trick that delivers impact with little time and consequence. As Philipp Haug of Haug London Haus, Jameela Jamil’s go-to for red carpet hair, puts it, “When we’re working at London Fashion Week we’re with professional models, so we can’t change their hair permanently and definitely can’t change their colour—they’re often rushing from one show to the next, so extensions are a great way of bringing colour without commitment.”

The same logic applies at home, where you want a statement look without a long-term change. The key, Haug explains, is making colour look intentional rather than ‘try-on’: “Placed diagonally and hidden under the top layer, with enough hair coming from the crown to mirror real colour placement, the result feels seamless."