Thickening Haircuts Are The Answer To Adding Much Needed Volume and Density To Fine Hair

When you have fine or thinning hair, the goal is always to mimic thickness and add volume. Sometimes this can be achieved with clever products, like blow-dry sprays that lift the roots or texturising sprays that add height, without the weight.

However, products for fine hair can only do so much and often a trip to the salon is the best place to start.

We asked Hairstylist Edward James to recommend the thickening hairstyles to ask for when you're sitting in the hairdresser's chair.

Salon tips for those with fine or thinning hair

First things first, James was keen to point out that it's important to know why you're seeking out a thickening haircut. For those with fine hair, which refers to the diameter of the strand, the focus is purely on cutting strategy and preserving strength through the ends.

Whereas with thinning hair, which is a reduction is density and linked with hormones, stress, illness and treatments, you can't rely just on a blowdry. "A big round-brush finish can create temporary volume that drops within hours. Ask your stylist to show you the cut air-dried or minimally styled so you understand the real shape. Avoid aggressive layering, it weakens the ends. Be open to colour to add visual depth. Consider well-fitted extensions too. When applied properly, tapes can add body and fullness without damaging the hair."

What's the best way to create the illusion of thickness? 

Whilst adding layers to your hair seems like the most obvious route, James says that the biggest mistake that he sees is actually over-layering. "Fine hair does not need more taken out of it; it needs strength at the baseline. Blunt ends instantly create density because they give the eye a solid line to sit on. If you want movement, focus on subtle interior or face-framing layers rather than layering the whole head. The perimeter must look strong. Thickness is about visual weight, not texture for the sake of it."

The other assumption, when it comes to adding thickness, is that length is important. However, James says that it's actually nothing to do with short versus long. "It's about how full the baseline looks. Some hair will not grow long because it weakens and snaps, so forcing length can actually make it appear thinner. Cutting it short does not magically create density either. Face shape, styling time and colour all play a role. Colour can add depth and dimension, which increases the illusion of fullness. A great cut works with the whole picture, not just the scissors."

What's the best thickening haircut for each hair type? 

"For fine straight hair, blunt cuts are your best friend," he says. "For fine wavy hair, keep the baseline strong but add light face-framing so it does not sit flat. For naturally curly fine hair, shaping must respect the curl pattern but avoid removing too much bulk internally." James explains that for all hair types, the strength of the style lies in the ends. Once the ends look thin, he says, the entire style collapses visually.

What are the best thickening hairstyles to ask for in the salon?

Bobs

For those with short hair, James recommends the sharp chin-length bob, à la Hailey Bieber. He says this "works brilliantly because the blunt edge makes the hair look fuller immediately."

Alternatively, Florence Pugh's soft, cropped bob "is another strong option, clean in shape and not overly feathered," he says.

Blunt and layered lobs

When your hair isn't short or long, but sits somewhere in between, James says there are two directions you can take: a sharp, defined cut or a layered lob. "A collarbone blunt cut, like Lily Collins, gives fullness while still allowing movement. Whereas a slightly longer lob with minimal layering, similar to Margot Robbie, works well because the ends stay dense, but the length remains versatile."

Well-placed layers

Long hair can often appear heavy and flat, which is why layers work particularly well with length. "Think strong long layers with a solid base like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley," Edwards says. "Gwyneth Paltrow wears her hair long and blunt with only subtle shaping at the front. The key in every case is fullness through the bottom third of the hair."