Looking to the past to predict the future has long been a foundational element in any fashion designer’s collection. Take the Y2K trend, for example: bandage dresses, heeled flip flops and choker necklaces resurrected from more than twenty years gone by. Yet, for Spring/Summer 26, the designers at London Fashion Week reached much, much further back into the archives—back to a time before cars, radios, and even the modern day fish tank was invented—yes, that last one surprised me, too.
From there, they plucked on one key feature: the exaggeration of the hips through bustles, panniers and crinolines—the cage-like frames that sat beneath large skirts—producing pieces that are as beautiful as they are steeped in history. Take Patrick McDowell’s big-hipped blazers, Simone Rocha’s voluminous frocks, Natasha Zinko’s gothic gowns, or even Erdem's vintage-like evening attire. But why the return of the attention-grabbing petticoat?
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 26
"I think we are seeing crinolines everywhere in Spring/Summer 26 collections from Reem Acra at New York Fashion Week to Simone Rocha at London Fashion Week (we actually saw them take centre stage at Couture Fashion Week earlier this year, too) because we have moved into a gilded era where excess is sought and being celebrated by the elite," shares celebrity stylist and fashion expert Marian Kwei as one possible answer.
Patrick McDowell Spring/Summer 26
Another? The fact that the Rococo era is trending. Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi's new Wuthering Heights movie trailer has just dropped to plenty of applause—yes, it's Victorian, but the fashion follows similar rules. And Marie Antoinette's style exhibition has just opened at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, swiftly following the presumed French Queen's pink diamond ring selling at £10 million at action in June this year. Clearly, it's the season of a Rococo and Victorian renaissance.
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 26
"Marie Antoinette was possibly the first true style influencer and reference to her excess with regards her style is back inspiring fashion," adds Kwei. Although this isn’t the first time we’ve gone down this road: in 2006 Sofia Coppola released her Marie Antoinette film; in 2007 Girls Aloud’s I Can’t Speak French video drew on Rococo revival; and Dior’s Haute Couture 2007 collection featured petticoats and lavish pink palettes.
Natasha Zinko Spring/Summer 26
So clearly the twenty-year trend cycle is still standing firm, even if the original inspiration occurred much (much) longer before. And, as Kwei confirms, it also lines up with the more-is-more outset we’re currently seeing across fashion circles—bag charms, dopamine dressing, and Labubu’s included. Although how Marie Antoinette would feel about the latter, I’ll leave to your own imagination.
