A First Look At Fendi's New Era Under Maria Grazia Chiuri

Fendi AW26 show — (Image credit: Getty Images/ Launchmetrics)

Maria Grazia Chiuri has a habit of making fashion statements out of, well, statements. At Dior, it was the words of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, "We Should All Be Feminists," a book title which became the ultimate slogan to wear on your T-shirt. So for her first collection as chief creative officer of Fendi, Chiuri had some choice words for ticket-holders, who included Uma Thurman, Jessica Alba, Dakota Fanning, Yasmin Finney and Song Yuqi. This time it was the catwalk itself, which came emblazoned with capital letters spelling, "Less I, More Us."

In the context of world politics, this perhaps makes sense. But what about in the context of clothes? By the looks of the collection, which was largely a study in black and white, Chiuri's raison d'etre might be a wardrobe that's not anonymous per se but that's quiet enough to let the personality wearing it shine through.

It's worth mentioning that while last season might have featured more debuts, AW26 is still a time of upheaval and change, when the design language, or DNA, of storied fashion houses is getting revised or even rewritten.

Chiuri's approach seems to be stripping things back, relying less on handbags (Fendi's bread and butter) and more on clothing that's both commanding yet wearable. Whether this recalibration will truly resonate with the loyal Fendi customer—and translate into lasting commercial success—is something only time will tell.

The Fendi faithful—more accustomed to a punchier palette and bolder silhouettes—will still find plenty to bookmark ahead of Autumn. An off-the-shoulder lace dress offered a persuasive answer to the perennial question of how to refresh the LBD, its fabrication reworked into midi skirts styled with tuxedo shirts, neat ankle socks and the perfect mid heel. Also destined for wish lists? A tiger-print coat that feels like an elegantly refined version of signature Fendi, as well as the jeans, which, styled with chiselled-toe boots, constitute a shift towards something less "done" for the brand. Lastly, the bags. They might not have been the focus, but with an encrusted tote here, and colour-blocked sequin Baguette there, they're still a serious draw.

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Natalie Hammond is a writer, editor and author who’s contributed to publications including Marie Claire, Elle, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Who What Wear, The London Standard, CNN and The Times. She was most recently senior fashion news editor at Grazia, and previously worked on the fashion desk of The Times. Her first book was published in August 2024, Bowie: His Style Principles, which is part of an ongoing series about world-famous wardrobes. She writes the Substack How Much?, a newsletter examining the culture of shopping.