Not Just for Acne: Why Salicylic Acid Is the Ingredient Experts Are Revisiting

With so many skincare acids on offer, it can feel like you need a glossary just to keep up. One ingredient, however, needs no introduction: salicylic acid.

A long-standing mainstay, salicylic acid was one of the first acids to break into the mainstream and remains one of the most widely used to this day. Part of the beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) family—and the only BHA commonly used in skincare—it works by penetrating deeper than surface-level exfoliants, helping to unclog pores, smooth texture and reduce breakouts.

And while it may be considered old school in terms of buzz-worthy new ingredients, salicylic acid continues to prove its relevance, with new formulations and technologies ensuring it still earns its place in today’s routines.

What are the benefits of salicylic acid?

“Salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to work deep within the pore, unlike Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), which act more on the surface,” explains Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, medical consultant, skin specialist, and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic. As a result, it not only helps treat existing blemishes but also works preventively, keeping pores clear (of sebum and dead skin cells) before spots can even develop.

It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells so they shed more easily, stopping any buildup of what is often referred to as 'gunk'. “When used appropriately, it can support long-term maintenance of clearer, more balanced skin,” Dr. Ejikeme says.

Can everyone use salicylic acid?

As a derivative of aspirin, it naturally has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits, making it a super useful ingredient for calming congested, reactive skin. On the other hand, it’s not an ingredient that everyone agrees with. Some people experience stinging or irritation, and those with aspirin allergies are advised to avoid it altogether.

“It is generally recommended to avoid salicylic acid during pregnancy, as high doses of salicylates may pose a risk,” says Dr Malvina Cunningham, consultant dermatologist at Renew + Me. She also recommends checking with a doctor before starting if you’re using prescription treatments or dealing with skin conditions such as dermatitis.

What other products should I use with salicylic acid?

“The most common mistakes people make is using too much, choosing formulations that are too harsh for their skin, and not using sunscreen,” Dr Cunningham says. Misuse can result in damage to the skin barrier, and it’s something you’ll definitely notice. “Your skin may initially feel tight and uncomfortable, before developing flaking and redness,” she goes on to explain. “This can then lead to stinging and burning, with increased sensitivity overall. If this happens, stop using salicylic acid and focus on repairing the skin with a gentle cleanser and a barrier-supporting moisturiser containing ceramides until it recovers.”

When used correctly, it can be incredibly effective. How you use it, as well as the other products that make up your routine, are important. “Alongside a good moisturiser that protects the skin barrier—look for ingredients such as ectoin and hyaluronic acid—and always paired with sunscreen, it can be a great ingredient even for sensitive skin at low concentrations,” Dr Cunninghan says.

How should I start using salicylic acid?

If you’re just starting out, less really is more. “I strongly recommend trying lower concentrations first, such as 0.5%–1%, and using it once or twice a week to begin with,” Dr Cunningham says. “Only increase frequency if your skin tolerates it. I also recommend doing a patch test, especially if you have sensitive skin.”

Can I use salicylic acid on my scalp?

Beyond facial skincare, salicylic acid has made a name for itself in body and haircare, too. “Because it removes dead skin cells, it’s commonly used in products for dandruff and other scaly scalp conditions, such as psoriasis,” Dr Cunningham explains. Like with skincare, for anyone with a sensitive scalp, it’s always recommended to proceed with caution. But otherwise, salicylic acid is a great product to incorporate into your haircare routine. Our scalps are prime areas for buildup, which can lead to many scalp issues. The addition of salicylic acid can help maintain that buildup, preventing issues.

Can salicylic acid help with body acne?

It’s equally effective in body care. “Salicylic acid works beautifully here because it’s oil-soluble, so it can penetrate pores and dissolve the build-up of oil and dead skin,” says Hafsa Issa-Salwe, facialist and co-founder of Botanical Mission Skin Clinic. “Without exfoliation, you’re more prone to congestion, breakouts and rough texture. I love it for keratosis pilaris and body acne, especially when combined with ingredients like urea, which add an extra softening effect. It’s great for areas like the backs of the arms, thighs and even cracked heels.”

The ingredient shows no signs of slowing down. “Combination products are increasingly the norm, particularly in the breakout space,” says Dr Cunningham. “Formulations that pair salicylic acid with other actives, such as retinoids, can offer added benefits, while newer technologies are focused on improving tolerability.”

The future is looking bright for salicylic acid, and there’s a reason salicylic acid remains a skincare staple. Used well, it’s a hardworking, multi-tasking ingredient that helps keep skin clear, calm and balanced—no chemistry degree required.

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