Spicule Skincare Is Trending In K-Beauty—Here’s Why These Tiny Needles Could Be the Shortcut to Glass Skin

Known for pioneering results-driven formulas and cutting-edge ingredients, South Korea's beauty industry has once again delivered with an innovation that promises serious skin benefits: spicule skincare.

Microspicules have been used in K-Beauty for over a decade, but the popularity of brands like Medicube and VT Cosmetics in the West means that Google searches for 'spicule skincare' have increased by 119% YoY.

“I first noticed microspicules gaining real traction when we saw social media interest surge and Korean brands began building entire franchises around the technology," says Chelsey Saunders, Director of Skincare, Haircare and Fragrance at Boots. "At Boots, we track global innovation closely, and when something moves from niche to mainstream in South Korea, it’s usually a sign it’s about to travel. What really signalled to us the strength and longevity of the trend was how confidently brands were talking about the innovation and its exciting results in terms of skin texture and overall glow. It felt less like a fleeting trend and more like the next evolution of results-driven skincare.”

What are spicules?

Spicule technology, or 'reedles’, has been compared to microneedling in that it's a type of delivery system. Whilst you might expect microspicules to have come directly from a lab, they are, in fact, a little more natural. "Microspicules are tiny, highly purified, microscopic needle-like structures that come from sea sponge," says Dr Christine Hall, an aesthetics and Korean skincare doctor. "They are made from natural minerals and are so small you can’t see them with the naked eye."

How does spicule skincare work?

The idea is, much like microneedling, the tiny needles penetrate the skin, creating little channels that allow active ingredients to penetrate and absorb more efficiently. "They allow ingredients like peptides or soothing cica to absorb far more effectively—in some cases up to 60 times more than if you simply applied the product alone," Dr Hall adds. "That’s why people notice brighter, plumper-looking skin more quickly." She says this helps other skincare products work more effectively. For example, using your hyaluronic acid serum after a product with spicules inside will help the hyaluronic acid absorb better.

By creating these teeny tiny 'wounds', your skin also goes into repair and recovery mode, which helps to stimulate collagen production.

What's the benefit of introducing spicules into your routine?

Spicule skincare is ideal if you feel like your skin always looks a little dull, uneven or tired. Which, if we're all honest with ourselves, is probably most of us. "The biggest benefit is visible glow and smoothness," says Dr Hall. "Microspicules can help refine the surface and enhance the performance of everything you apply afterwards. Over time, skin looks clearer, brighter and more polished—the look often referred to as “glass skin".

Spicule skincare is particularly helpful for early signs of ageing and mild pigmentation, she says. It's also suitable for those who want noticeable results, without in-clinic injectable treatments.

All skin types should be able to tolerate spicule skincare, even those with sensitive skin, says Dr Hall. However, she warns those with eczema, psoriasis, broken skin or a severely damaged barrier to get advice from a professional first.

When you apply a spicule seum, chances are you'll feel a tingling or prickling sensation. Whilst this is normal, many spicule serums come in different strengths and concentrations. "Lower strengths—often labelled 0.1 to 1%, or 50 to 100 in 'reedle' systems—are suitable for daily or frequent use," explains Dr Hall. "These give a gentle boost and are ideal for beginners." These figures refer to the concentration or number of the needles rather than the size of the needle or the active ingredient. "Higher strengths—sometimes labelled 1000 or around 10%—are more intensive and usually used once or twice a week. These create a stronger stimulation effect and can feel more noticeably prickly and are more likely to cause some transient redness and maybe even peeling."

So similar to retinoids, it's a good idea to start low and slow. Apply the product after cleansing, followed by barrier-boosting skincare. Don't use other punchy actives, as this can exacerbate any side effects.