Trust us, these are the 8 best retinol serums for smooth, plump skin—that don't cause irritation

It comes with the job that I get asked a lot of questions about skincare, things like "What's the best face serum?" or "Should I double cleanse?" But there’s one ingredient in particular that people always want to pick my brains about—retinol. Despite basically every dermatologist and skincare expert that I’ve ever spoken to touting it as one of the only ingredients proven to genuinely help refine skin texture and improve collagen production within the skin, friends and family always want to know one thing: is using a retinol really worth it? I get it. Retinol seems to have acquired something of a bad reputation for being irritating and abrasive, so many people feel understandably nervous to introduce it into their skincare routines. In fact, I was one of them.

Having had a particularly bad reaction to a prescribed retinol some years back, I swore off the ingredient entirely for a long time. Throw into the mix that you can’t use retinol at all when you’re pregnant (and I’ve been pregnant twice within the last five years) and it wasn’t until recently that I jumped back on the bandwagon. My reasoning? I’m now 35 and there is no doubt that my skin is changing—it’s drier than it’s ever been in places, losing the plumpness that I’d always taken for granted, and the first flutterings of fine lines are starting to emerge around my eyes and forehead. And while I’m not all that fussed about my skin looking older—it’s a privilege, of course—it’s the dwindling elasticity and loss of firmness that got me wanting to add a retinol serum back into my regular routine.

But before I took the plunge, I wanted to get the full lowdown on what the very best retinol serums are and what exactly makes using one so effective. Ahead, I caught up with Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and founder of MZ Skin, and Shabir Daya MRPharm, co-founder of Victoria Health and formulator of DoSe, to break it down.

What is retinol?

In short, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A which is known to have an array of skin benefits. However, Dr Zamani points out that the ingredient itself is pretty misunderstood. “When applied topically in serum form retinol promotes collagen and elastin production, reduces fine lines, and wrinkles, and enhances skin texture and tone. It’s a powerhouse for achieving smoother, youthful-looking skin and one I recommend in my clinic daily,” explains Dr Zamani. “However, people often mistakenly think the potential irritation that retinol can cause to skin may result in thinning skin, which is absolutely. inaccurate. It actually does the opposite—it helps to increase skin density.”

Which skin types would benefit most from using a retinol serum?

While mature skin is touted as the skin type most likely to benefit from using retinol—and understandably so given the ingredients ability to minimise the appearance of fine lines and winkles, improve skin density, and improve skin texture by stimulating collagen production—it’s actually a great ingredient for acne-prone skin too. “Retinols ability to regulate oil production and promote cell turnover makes it a potent tool against acne,” explains Dr Zamani. “It fades hyperpigmentation and reduces acne scars for a more even skin tone, and it also accelerates skin renewal—removing dead cells and unveiling fresher, healthier skin”.

However, if you have sensitive skin then it’s extra important to proceed with extra caution when you’re introducing one of the best retinol serums into your routine. “Retinol can cause adverse reactions such as redness, irritation, and dryness in sensitive skin types when not acclimated,” says Dr Zamani. “I would start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the dosage over time to help protect against potential irritation.”

What’s the difference between retinol, retinoids and other forms of vitamin A?

If you’ve ever had a browse of retinol serums then you might have noticed that the terminology can get quite confusing. Typically you’ll see retinoids, retinol, retinal and retinaldehyde listed in skincare products—but what are the differences?

“They’re all vitamin A derivatives that share similar functions on the skin and are all terms of retinoid,” explains Daya. “Something like trans-retinoid acid, also known as tretinoin, is a prescription-only retinoid used to treat acne and ageing skin and has a direct effect on the skin. All the other over-the-counter retinoids go through a vitamin A pathway and are converted into retinoic acid on the skin to obtain the benefits.” Retinal is actually the exact same ingredient as retinaldehyde—it’s just the shorter version of its name.

Some types are more potent than others, however. “Retinal is just one step away from its conversion to retinoic acid which means it acts quicker than retinol, but can be more irritating. Retinol is converted into retinal and then retinoic acid, so it’s two steps away and can therefore take a little longer to work and might still be irritating depending on the strength used.”

If you have more sensitive skin, Daya recommends looking at an ingredient called granactive retinol. “Due to its molecular structure it’s one of the most bioavailable, non-prescription, next-generation forms of vitamin A,” Daya explains. “It has little to no irritation in a delivery system that protects skin against multiple signs of ageing as well as helping to improve spot-prone skin.”

What to look for when choosing the best retinol serum?

There’s no denying that the shelves are saturated with retinol skincare products, so it can be really hard to know where to start with choosing the best retinol serum for you. However, formula really is key with retinol in order to get the best results. “You want a serum that’s effective, but also gentle on your skin so look for terms like ‘time-release’ or ‘slow-release’ which means the retinol is released gradually, giving your skin time to adjust,” suggests Dr Zamani.

In terms of potency, Dr Zamani suggests starting with a serum that has a low concentration of retinol and using it just once or twice a week. “Slowly increase it as your skin adjusts until you’re using it nightly. This technique will help your skin to build up a tolerance to the active,” Dr Zamani explains. If you do experience any irritation, Dr Zamani suggests either dropping down to less frequent use, trying a serum with a lower concentration of retinol, or “sandwiching” your retinol by applying a moisturiser to your skin first, then the retinol, and then moisturisers again.

And, of course, before we get into our guide to the best retinol serums on the market, there’s one important thing to note: retinol increases your skin’s sensitivity to UV light so always remember to apply SPF 50+ when using one.

The best retinol serums

1. Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin Renewing Serum

These capsules may be small but they really pack a punch when it comes to delivering a gamut of skin-friendly ingredients in one handy dose. Alongside a skin-renewing pure retinol, there is HPR (aka High Performance Retinol) which delivers the sustained release benefits that Dr Zamani mentioned we should look out for. Plus, the formula is packed with ceramides to strengthen your skin barrier and improve moisture levels alongside peptides to firm the skin and support skin health. They’re so gentle that they can be used day and night and they really do leave skin looking glowy and radiant.

2. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Serum

If you’re totally new to the world of retinol serums then Medik8 is a brilliant brand to start with. There are five concentrations in beauty editor favourite, Crystal Retinal range—starting with Retinal 1 which contains 0.01% retinal and building up to Retinal 20 which contains a concentration of 0.2% for more experienced users. This ultra-low dose is perfect for helping sensitive skin to adjust to using a new active with the moisturising texture helping to keep skin soft and hydrated at the same time. The difference between retinal and retinol? Retinal is also a derivative of vitamin A, it just acts even faster to smooth, brighten and firm the skin.

3. Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform

This is the very product that got me back into using retinol serums regularly. Created by celebrity facialist Shani Darden, it has a host of celebrity fans—including the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Kim Kardashian—and it truly lives up to the hype. It’s totally free from oils, silicones and fragrances, and has a silky, moisturising texture that never feels drying on the skin. And for oily or spot-prone skin in particular it’s great as it contains anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide and aloe vera and really helps to improve the appearance of blemishes, reduce the frequency of breakouts and minimise scarring left from spots (a real issue that I have from old acne). Thanks to the encapsulated retinol, I have never experienced any irritation when using this and my skin looks so much clearer and brighter when I use it regularly.

4. L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Laser Pure Retinol Deep Anti-Wrinkle Night Serum

Proving that you don’t have to pay more to get a truly potent retinol product, this night serum contains 0.2% retinol which is the highest concentration that L’Oreal Paris has offered to date. With results that have been validated by dermatologists, it does an impressive job at reducing the appearance of wrinkles, smoothing fine lines, and generally improving the clarity of skin tone. And while that means it feels like a natural choice for more mature skin, it’s the way that it softens and boosts radiance that means anyone looking for more plump or luminous skin will reap the benefits of using this.

5. MZ Skin Advanced Retinol Complex Serum

For those over 50 who haven’t used a retinol serum previously, this is one of the most efficacious formulations at improving the overall health of older skin. Not only does it target surface-level concerns like fine lines and wrinkles with a 3% retinoid complex that promotes cell turnover and collagen production, but it also contains 5% bakuchiol and vitamin E to protect the skin from free radicals and give you more plump, juicy and luminous skin. It’s definitely an investment, but it feels so luxurious on the skin and it really works to improve the appearance of the skin and its health long-term.

6. The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane

If you’re looking for an expert-level retinol formula at fraction of the cost of other retinol serums on the market then this one from The Ordinary will not disappoint. Formulated with 1% retinol, it improves skin texture, elasticity and tone while supporting hydration levels with the addition of squalane and jojoba seed oil. If you’re unsure about going straight in at 1% then the brand also offers a 0.2% and 0.5% version of this serum. And while the texture of the serum is not as advanced as some of the others on this list, the fact that you’ll likely use this at night and won’t need to layer makeup on top is definitely worth the compromise considering the affordable price tag.

7. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum

Although this is marketed as a blemish control serum, and it is great if you get lots of breakouts, I think that the real beauty in this retinol serum lies in its ability to brighten dull skin. Along with the brand’s trademark blend of three essential ceramides, this serum uses encapsulated retinol (to reduce irritation) and liquorice root extract to gently exfoliate congested skin and leave the surface looking bright and renewed. There is also niacinamide to help protect the skin barrier going forwards. If you have hyperpigmentation or dark marks left from old acne then it really does a great job of brightening and evening skin tone.

8. Skin Rocks Retinoid 1

The brainchild of skincare expert Caroline Hirons, Skin Rocks offers a multitude of solutions to various skin concerns—and the Retinoid 1 acts as the perfect springboard from which to start your journey into the best retinol serums. Containing 0.2% hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) enriched with boosting ingredients like bakuchiol and soybean extract, it’s a great starting point if you’re in your 20s and 30s and walking the line between still dealing with hormonal breakouts and congestion but you’re also starting to notice that loss of elasticity and increased texture in your skin. It’s moisturising, smoothing, and really does reduce the appearance of any spots, pigmentation or lines.

9. DoSe by VH Granactive Retinoid 5% Serum

Harnessing one of the more innovative forms of over-the-counter vitamin A, granactive retinoid, this serum is a great option if you're nervous about introducing retinols as it works hard to improve the skin's appearance without causing any irritation. Whether it's signs of ageing, like fine lines and wrinkles, or persistent breakouts and stubborn spots, this serum has a gentle and hydrating creamy texture that smooths the surface of the skin while delivering a healthy dose of hyaluronic acid to keep skin hydrated.