Pores 101: The Science, the Myths and the Skincare That Actually Helps

We obsess over them, scrutinise them in magnifying mirrors, and buy endless products promising to 'shrink' them—but how much do pores actually reveal about our skin? “Pores can reflect certain aspects of your skin type, but they’re not the entire story,” explains oculoplastic surgeon and skincare expert Dr. Maryam Zamani. “While pore size and appearance are influenced by oil production, genetics, and ageing, skin type classification also considers sensitivity, hydration levels, and barrier function. So, pores give us clues—but they’re not the full diagnostic picture.” In other words, think of pores as the gossip column of your complexion—revealing, but rarely the full truth. It begs the question: what exactly are pores? Let’s dive in.

Pores explained

“Pores are tiny openings in the skin where the body’s natural oil is released to the surface,” explains Dr Howard Murad, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Murad Skincare. “They provide lubrication, help excrete sweat and oil, and even remove dead skin cells. They’re vital to skin health.” Dr Zamani agrees, “Pores aren’t flaws—they’re functional. They allow sebum and sweat to reach the skin’s surface and help regulate hydration and temperature.” In other words, pores are less of a problem and more of a plumbing system, keeping your complexion working smoothly. However, when they become clogged, stretched or inflamed, they quickly rise to the top of your beauty concerns list.

Why are some pores bigger than others?

The frustrating truth? Pore size is largely genetic. “People with oilier skin tend to have more visible pores, particularly across the T-zone,” says aesthetic doctor Dr Priya Verma. “Hormonal changes, like during puberty or PCOS, can also increase oil production, making pores look larger.” In heat, the skin around your pores tends to swell, making them look more obvious—add sweat into the mix, and your sebaceous glands go into overdrive, which only makes pores appear bigger. Skipping a proper cleanse or layering on heavy, occlusive makeup can make matters worse, too. Dr Murad adds that ageing can contribute as well, “Pores can become more obvious when you age because your skin loses elasticity, which allows more dirt and debris to collect. This can stretch them and make them seem even larger than they are."

Can pores really tell you your skin type?

Pores aren’t the sole deciding factor, but they can offer clues. “If you have larger or more visible pores around the T-zone, it’s often a sign of combination or oily skin,” says Dr Verma. “Smaller, barely-there pores are usually associated with dry or sensitive skin.” Dr Zamani cautions against reading them in isolation: “Someone with dry or mature skin can still have enlarged pores if they’ve had years of sun exposure or if there’s a lot of accumulated congestion. Pore visibility is one piece of the skin-health puzzle, but not the whole story.”

The myth of ‘shrinking’ pores

Let’s clear this up once and for all: you can’t actually shrink pores. However, we can make them appear less prominent. “Pore size is primarily determined by genes and cannot be changed,” says Dr Murad. “What you can do is minimise their appearance with the right care.” Dr Zamani echoes this: “Pores aren’t doors that open and close. What you’re really seeing is how well supported the skin is around them—hydration, elasticity and barrier strength all affect how visible they look.” If you do have a clogged pore in the form of a blackhead or blemish, try your best to leave it be; don’t attempt to squeeze it. "Doing this can lead to stretching out and enlarging the pore, and it won’t return to its original size,” advises Dr Murad.

How to refine your pores

Consistency beats quick fixes. Here’s what makes a real difference:

Cleanse—but don’t strip: “Double cleansing is ideal at night,” says Dr Verma. “It ensures thorough removal of sunscreen, makeup and pollution, which can clog pores.” Look for gentle, non-comedogenic formulas—gel cleansers work well for oily or congested skin.

Exfoliate strategically: Salicylic acid is a hero for decongesting pores. Glycolic acid is another option for improving texture and brightening. Just don’t overdo it: too much chemical exfoliation can backfire.

Bring in the big players: Retinoids are the gold standard for refining pores long-term. “They encourage collagen production, smooth texture and normalise oil flow,” says Dr Verma.

Support your barrier: “Hydration and barrier repair are the best ways to keep pores looking clearer and more refined,” says Dr Zamani. Lightweight moisturisers, antioxidants and niacinamide all help maintain that crucial support structure.

Protect daily: Sun damage weakens pore support. “Daily SPF is non-negotiable if you’re serious about minimising pores,” says Dr Verma. Choose a mattifying formula if you’re prone to shine.

Will professional treatments help?

At-home skincare will always be your first line of defence, but in-clinic options can take results further. “Evidence-based treatments can remodel collagen and visibly reduce pore appearance,” says Dr Maryam Zamani. “RF microneedling, such as Morpheus8, stimulates dermal remodelling, while fractional lasers or Nd:YAG can tighten skin and improve texture. Chemical peels and light therapies also help by clearing congestion and supporting collagen production.” Dr Zamani notes that the best approach often combines professional treatments with consistent at-home skincare: “Think of clinic-based procedures as a reset button—but daily maintenance is what keeps pores in check long term.”

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The makeup question

Pores aren’t flaws to erase; they’re a fundamental part of your skin’s design. While you can’t change their size, you can change how visible they look by supporting your skin from every angle. “A good primer can temporarily smooth the surface and blur visible pores,” says Dr Verma. If you find that your foundation gathers in your pores, makeup artist Rose Gallagher suggests using a brush to smooth and buff an even layer of it everywhere to ensure your foundation glides over, rather than hang out in your pores. "I always finish with a setting powder to prevent makeup from 'moving around' and being less likely to sit in your pores."