NAD Is the Multitasking Skincare Ingredient to Rival Retinoids—Experts Explain How It Really Works

You might have noticed a sudden sharp increase in beauty brands promoting NAD+ in their skincare offering, but what does this supposedly transformative ingredient do and should you incorporate it into your own routine?

"While the benefits of NAD+ as an oral supplement have been known for some time, skincare brands are now exploring its use in topical formulations," explains advanced facialist Mariam Abbas. "Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is the more familiar and widely used precursor to NAD+. It contributes to NAD+ synthesis within cells and its benefits are well known and evidenced in skincare," she says.

As for the ingredient itself, NAD is "a molecule that exists naturally in our skin cells and plays a key role in cellular energy and repair," explains Dr Anna Andrienko, Dermatologist & Aesthetic Doctor at Dr Ducu Clinics. "As we age, NAD levels decline, which contributes to slower skin renewal, reduced repair and visible ageing. Skincare formulations aim to support or boost NAD activity to help skin function more efficiently."

If you're a fan of longevity serums or beginner-friendly retinols, you'll probably like the sound of NAD. But as with all great skincare inventions, there's some complex science behind it that's worth getting to grips with before you put it on your face.

What is NAD?

"NAD stands for nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, a coenzyme found in every cell of the body," says Dr Barbara Kubicka, aesthetics doctor and dermatologist. "It plays a vital role in energy production and cellular repair, and as we age, NAD levels naturally decline, which affects how efficiently our skin cells function. In skincare, it is associated with supporting healthier, more resilient skin at a cellular level and improving the skin’s ability to respond to environmental stressors.

"Environmental stressors include UV exposure, pollution, blue light and smoking, all of which create oxidative stress and DNA damage in skin cells. Over time this accelerates visible ageing and supporting cellular repair mechanisms may help the skin better manage that damage."

What are the benefits of NAD skincare?

"NAD supports mitochondrial function, helping skin cells generate the energy they need to repair and renew. It also activates pathways involved in DNA repair and longevity, which are essential for maintaining youthful-looking skin," says Dr Kubicka. "In topical formulations, we often see NAD precursors used to help stimulate the skin’s own production. It is not a miracle ingredient, but it represents a sophisticated and science led approach within longevity focused skincare."

Abbas notes that "in topical skincare, the benefits associated with NAD+ and its precursors are similar to those of niacinamide." These include:

• Anti-inflammatory and calming effects
• Stabilisation of the epidermal barrier
• Reduction in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)
• Antioxidant activity
• Support of cellular energy production
• Promotion of protein and ceramide synthesis
• Preventing pigmentation

But a word of warning: "It is important to consider bioavailability while thinking about the use of NAD+ in skincare. For any active ingredient to have an effect, it must be able to penetrate the epidermis effectively. Delivery systems such as encapsulation technologies may enhance stability and absorption. Using precursor forms like niacinamide is a popular way to incorporate NAD+ in skincare," explains Abbas.

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