From CK One to DKNY Be Delicious, Nostalgic Scents Are Making a Genuine Comeback
The ‘90's and ‘00's revival has not missed the olfactory sector
More than a photograph or a song, scent has the unique ability to instantly transport us to another world and another version of ourselves. Neuroscientists often refer to our sense of smell as the strongest trigger of autobiographical memory, because fragrance is processed in the same part of the brain as emotion and long-term recall. It’s why, in a single spritz, scent can summon childhood homes, teenage holidays, or long-lost lovers.
It’s also why, at a time when life feels increasingly hectic, digital and uncertain, fragrance has become one of the most powerful vehicles for nostalgia. The global fragrance boom shows no sign of slowing, with the sector projected to reach nearly $65 billion in revenue this year. But alongside a steady stream of new launches, there is a growing obsession with the past. Across fashion, film and beauty, the ‘90s and early 2000s dominate the cultural landscape, and perfume is no exception.
The renewed fascination with Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s understated style, sparked by recent screen portrayals of the era on FX's Love Story, has reignited a craze for ‘90s minimalism, via Calvin Klein, the fashion house where Bessette-Kennedy worked. As a result, CK One, which was the first gender-neutral scent to break into the mainstream and the olfactory symbol of the decade, is enjoying a new wave of relevance, despite the fact that many of its wearers weren’t yet born when it launched.
In fact, the global insights platform GWI shows that 37 per cent of Gen Z say they're nostalgic for the ‘90s, despite having no direct memory of it, while over half feel the same about the early 2000s. In uncertain times, the past can feel reassuringly simple—a world pre-social media, pre-pandemic and pre-cost-of-living crisis—and fragrance allows us to experience that comfort in a more tangible way than perhaps any other beauty product.
Scents that defined a generation
For perfumers, the appeal of the 1990s comes as no surprise. The decade marked a turning point for fragrance, moving away from the opulence of the 1980s towards something cleaner, lighter and more restrained. Advances in technology, synthetic molecules and aroma-chemistry made it possible to create aquatic, airy compositions that felt modern at the time, and still feel wearable today.
"Clean florals, soft musks, and those more abstract 'fresh' compositions felt revolutionary at the time. What the iconic ones shared was a sense of clarity and restraint,” says Frances Shoemack, founder of luxury fragrance brand Abel. “They weren't overloaded or overly complex. They had a very distinct point of view. I think we're gravitating back to them not just because of nostalgia, but because they offer a kind of antidote to where we are now. In an age of endless choice and constant stimulation, there’s something incredibly appealing about something simple, recognisable, and quietly confident."
Among favourites were Clinique Happy (a blend of citrus notes and soft florals including Hawaiian wedding flower and spring mimosa), Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey (clean scent, mimicking water, spring flowers and woody notes), Davidoff Cool Water for Women (a refreshing wave of watermelon, Lily of the Valley and musk), and, of course, CK One (a clean, citrus-aromatic scent).
"Revisiting those perfumes can feel very comforting and familiar," comments '90s baby, Susan Wai Hnin, who is the co-founder of Asia-rooted fragrance brand Gabar. "At the same time, trends tend to move in cycles, so what was popular 20 or 30 years ago often comes back around, especially as younger generations rediscover and experience them in a completely new context."
By the early 2000s, the mood had shifted away from the "clean" feel of the 90s and moved towards sweeter, richer, more playful compositions, ushering in the rise of gourmands. Fragrances like Juicy Couture's Viva la Juicy, Prada Candy and DKNY's Be Delicious were maximalist gourmands, and for many, the mere sight is enough to trigger instant nostalgia.
Old icons in a new era
Today, brands understand that customers don’t just want new scents—they want old scents, reimagined. Many fragrance houses are repackaging and selling nostalgia itself through flankers that share the original's DNA but with a modern twist, as well as collectable bottles and heritage storytelling designed to make the fragrance feel like an object worth treasuring, as well as savouring the memory it evokes.
Late last year, Marc Jacobs released a "fragrance wardrobe" for their Daisy range. Partnering with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, known for his pop art stylings, they released four (very collectable) fragrances in different colourways. They also came in a more concentrated eau de parfum format, too.
Chloé, on the other hand, left its iconic Signature Eau de Parfum alone and instead released other ranges that pay homage to its bohemian heritage. Their latest, The Mediterranean Essences, is inspired by the French Riviera.
In a world of endless scrolling and relentless notifications, scent remains one of the only things that can’t be digitalised. It can only be experienced ephemerally, and once it fades, it exists only in our memory. Which might be exactly why, more so than ever, we find ourselves reaching for the fragrances that remind us of who we used to be.
