While the fashion trends for the autumn/winter 23 season were very much focused on quiet luxury, elevated wardrobe essentials and wearable trends, the message coming from the spring/summer 24 runway was clear: grandeur and dopamine-dressing are back.
As ever, designers turned the sartorial into the theatrical. At Dior, a digital installation compounded the feminist message of the collection, while Erdem showcased a regal—and upcycled—collection in the grandeur of the British Museum. JW Anderson put the fun back in fashion with a collection of plasticine clay hoodies, Richard Quinn took over the the Grade II-listed 1901 Ballroom at the Andaz Hotel to pay homage to his late father in a show that left the audience in tears, while Louis Vuitton transformed its new store into the inside of a hot air balloon.
When it comes to trends, where red and grey dominated the catwalk last season, spring sees some divisive colours take centre stage: orange and purple. Not for the faint-hearted, they painted the runway at Fendi, Missoni, Etro, Givenchy and Loewe to name just a few. Other big trends you'll want to know about: geometric shapes, fringing and embellishments.
From New York to London, Milan and Paris, keep scrolling for our analysis of the runway trends you need to know from the Spring/Summer 2024 season.
THE SPRING/SUMMER 2024 FASHION TRENDS
1. Orange-you Nice
There's no doubt about it, orange is going to be THE hue of the SS24 season. From New York to Paris models wore the zesty shade head-to-toe—quite literally, with orange shoes spotted at Missoni, David Koma and Tove. Designers played with proportions and textures to give the trend some depth, with David Koma going for mini skirts with giant ruffled trains, Emilia Wickstead re-imagining the simple maxi dress with tassels. Missoni and Tove added geometric prints to the mix, while at Zimmermann it was all about orange ombre.
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2. The Colour Purple
Love it or hate it (I usually hate it), you won't be able to ignore purple when the spring collections start hitting stores. At Loewe, it was just a hint here and there with neon purple knitwear, while at Givenchy, black maxi dresses were subtly adorned with purple flowers. Carolina Herrera and Issey Miyake took a soft approach to the trend, sending models down the runway in draped lilac maxi dresses, while Masha Popova created purple denim separates.
3. The Cold Shoulder
The appetite for cut-out details is still strong, and this season designers are highlighting shoulders and collarbones. SSubtlety is the name of the here with designers opting for delicate cuts, taking the shape of a knitted maxi dress with an exaggerated trim around the shoulder at Fendi and a somple two gold=trimmed discs cut out of a plan back tunic at Jil Sander. Whilst over at McQueen, power shoulders were ripped at the seam and at Rokh ah off-the-shoulder shirt provided the laissez-faire attitude.
4. A Lesson In Geometry
While usually dominated by florals (I won't bore you with the Devil Wears Prada quote again), spring's choice of print is a celebration of all things geometric.
Fendi's iconic block geometry logo took centre stage on everything from coats to tops, while Vuitton's 3D take on it gave the mini skirt a new spin. There were also checks at Versace and blurred lines at Missoni and Bottega Veneta.
5. Seeing Things in Black and White
The fashion week shows are always a lesson in counter-trends, and the SS24 runways were no exception. As the antidote to the orange and purple trends, monochrome looks are back with a vengeance, from the wearable (shirts and waistcoats at Dior, tanks and leggings at Supriya Lele), to the maximalist (capes and bows at Richard Quinn and intricate dresses at Huishan Zhang and Bora Aksu).