Erdem upcycles for a regal collection

The SS24 show was inspired by royalty

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Designer Erdem Moralioglu MBE took inspiration from royalty for his SS24 collection. Specifically, Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with Chatsworth House.

It is through her fierce, determined, warm and no-nonsense lens that the spring/summer came to life. Erdem was given access to the archive of Debo - as she was fondly known - to create the collection, which was not only inspired by her wardrobe, but her determination to keep the historic house of Chatsworth alive during a time when many others were crumbling.

But whilst Debo was known for her impeccable couture gowns and lavish parties during which she hosted presidents and artists, she was equally comfortable in a Barbour and wellies, tending to her chickens,

Both those sides of her personality are reflected in the SS24 collection. Jacquard coats and floral tea dresses are interspersed with wool cardigans and pleated kilt skirts. Romantic florals mix in with heritage checks. 

Even her love of Elvis is depicted in the collection in the form of a sequin slip dress adorned with Elvis-inspired green jewels. 

And as per Debo's making do and mending mentality, so has Erdem upcycled antique textiles from Chatsworth House into dresses and coat linings. In particular, a gown features remnants of old curtains, which have been hand embroidered by Cecily Lasnet, Debo's great-granddaughter, for the collection.

A collection worthy of the late Duchess. 

Penny Goldstone

Penny Goldstone is the Digital Fashion Editor at Marie Claire, covering everything from catwalk trends to royal fashion and the latest high street and Instagram must-haves.

Penny grew up in France and studied languages and law at the Sorbonne Nouvelle University in Paris before moving to the UK for her MA in multimedia journalism at Bournemouth University. She moved to the UK permanently and has never looked back (though she does go back regularly to stock up on cheese and wine).

Although she's always loved fashion - she used to create scrapbooks of her favourite trends and looks, including Sienna Miller and Kate Moss' boho phase - her first job was at, sourcing the best deals for everything from restaurants to designer sales.

However she quit after two years to follow her true passion, fashion journalism, and after many years of internships and freelance stints at magazines including Red, Cosmopolitan, Stylist and Good Housekeeping, landed her dream job as the Digital Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK.

Her favourite part of the job is discovering new brands and meeting designers, and travelling the world to attend events and fashion shows. Seeing her first Chanel runway IRL at Paris Fashion Week was a true pinch-me moment.