Ana Ospina
Devoid of viral spray-on clothing or divisive faux-taxidermy dresses, for the Autumn/Winter 2023 runway season designers offered us a renewed focus on the clothes. While fashion months passed may have delivered a sense of whimsical escapism and equally singular looks, the trends of Autumn/Winter 2023 are set to be more wearable, featuring impeccable tailoring, timeless silhouettes and the kind of closet staples that would actually feel at home in your everyday wardrobe.
Though that is not to say there was a lack of grandeur this past season. During the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, Dior built a sprawling multicoloured installation within its show space that some likened to the inside of a genie’s bottle, and Off-White created an apocalyptic feeling for its catwalk featuring sandy flooring and a giant silver orb. At Coperni, robotic animals interacted with models on stage, while Stella McCartney hosted her show alongside real-life horses at France’s oldest horse riding school.
When it comes to trends, red will undoubtedly be the colour of the season with everything from clothing to show spaces cast in the hue. Tailoring will also take on a particular prominence for Autumn/Winter 2023, with black suits becoming a key look alongside the return of the tie. Bags are offered the supersize treatment, while ruching and waist-centric details will dominate dresses. Elsewhere, layers have taken on a life of their own, becoming an on-display focal point of outfit styling, and grey coats in every shape and silhouette are set to be the standout outerwear of choice.
From New York to London, Milan and Paris, keep scrolling for our analysis of the runway trends you need to know from the Autumn/Winter 2023 season.
THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2023 FASHION TRENDS
1. Seeing Red
Everyone in the industry was seeing red this fashion month, but not for the reasons you might think. It had nothing to do with anyone’s temper and everything to do with the colour designers couldn’t get enough of.
From David Koma having models walk on a vibrant red carpet to Nensi Dojaka casting her show space in crimson light, red was undoubtedly the colour of the season. Head-to-toe red looks were seen at Prada, Bottega Veneta, Stella McCartney, and more. Plus, according to Tagwalk, Autumn/Winter 2023 saw a 33% increase in looks featuring the colour compared to Autumn/Winter 2022. Shop the look with every retailer from Mytheresa to Selfridges.
Shop the look:
2. Gather Together
Ruching, draping, gathering, whichever way you choose to phrase it, Grecian-inspired draped looks were one of the most prominent trends amongst dresses this season. From Altuzarra to Jason Wu, Ferragamo, Tove and more, models took to the runway swathed in gathered fabrics. According to Tagwalk, draped looked were 20% more popular this season compared to last year.
Shop the look:
3. Big Bag Energy
Carry-alls were offered the supersize treatment this season with totes, handbags and clutches being displayed in epic proportions. As the antidote to the tiny handbag trend we’ve seen in years passed, for Autumn/Winter 2023 it looks like you’ll be able to fit everything (including the kitchen sink). Champions of this trend included Ferragamo, who displayed supersize shoulder bags, as well as Loewe, Jil Sander and Balmain.
Shop the look:
4. The New Power Suit
For Autumn/Winter 2023, we saw a return to wearable trends. Rather than runways filled with avant-garde clothing that few could ever wear, designers honed in on classic styles that offer versatility and will stand the test of time. One such example was the prominence of the power suit.
Plain black suits in classic silhouettes were spotted everywhere from New York (at Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors) to London (at Tove and Christopher Kane), Milan and Paris (at Dior in the form of a fitted blazer and pleated skirt). In fact, the timeless look was so popular, Ann Demeulemeester and Proenza Schouler sent almost identical outfits down the runway, complete with open shirt styling that featured exposed cuffs beneath the blazer sleeves.
Shop the look:
5. Black Tie
While generally relegated to menswear, womenswear designers opted for a new aesthetic this season, sending many models down the runway wearing ties. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri opted for a slim black tie paired with a crisp white shirt and full skirt. Mary-Jane shoes finished off the prim but rebellious look.
Valentino’s runway show, was dedicated entirely to the trend. Entitled “Valentino Black Tie,” the Italian house's runway was angled as “a literal description” of the trend, rather than an indication of the dress code.
Aside from Valentino, black ties were also spotted on the runway at Alexander McQueen, Carolina Hererra, David Koma and Dior.
Shop the look:
6. Peek-A-Boo Layers
Layering is always a necessity during Autumn and Winter, but this season it’s taken centre stage. While the layers of yore may have been discreet and indistinguishable, for 2023 they’re set to be on full display.
At Miu Miu and Gucci, logoed waistbands of tights were seen peeking out from under skirts or styled to sit over the top of cardigans. While at Molly Goddard and Givenchy, this trend manifested in exposed hems of shirts sticking out from under jumpers. Whichever way you do it, keep your layers on display next season.
Shop the look:
7. Joined At The Hip
Waist details are well and truly back. This trend began in New York, but soon took over the catwalks of London and Paris, too. Peplum tops were seen at Brandon Maxwell, while exaggerated hourglass silhouettes were a theme in Tory Burch’s collection.
Subsequently, in London, the waist focus continued with Christopher Kane, JW Anderson, 16 Arlington and Richard Quinn, who all sent dresses down the runway containing waist-centric additions. In Paris, we spotted peplum blazers at Balmain, further solidifying that the trend is here to stay.
Shop the look:
8. Shades of Grey
In another nod to the wearable nature of Autumn/Winter 2023, this season the runways were inundated with versatile grey coats. From Coperni to Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Ferragamo and Max Mara, so many designers took a moment to honour the tried and tested classics this year. In fact, Tagwalk notes that there were 13% more grey looks this year compared to the same shade in 2022.
Shop the look:
THE STAR-STUDDED RUNWAY
While this season may have been missing lion heads, upsidedown dresses and the shock factor of a spray-on dress, it certainly did have its fair share of talked-about moments, many of which can be credited to surprise celebrity appearances on the runway. From Pamela Anderson on the catwalk at Boss to Emma Corrin’s appearance at Miu Miu and Florence Pugh opening Harris Reed, there was definitely no shortage of familiar faces.
THE MODELS
“What happened to size diversity?” This was the question that reverberated throughout fashion month, as attendees noticed a distinct lack of curve models on the runway. While there have been strides made in representation over recent years, sadly this was not the case for Autumn/Winter 2023. According to Tagwalk, there was 24% less size diversity on the runway this season compared to last year.
While the bar was low, London led the way in the size diversity stakes this season with 38% of shows including curve models. New York was not far behind with 36% of shows including diverse shapes. In Paris, that dropped to 25%, while Milan was the city with the least size diversity with just 13% of shows including a curvy model.
That’s not to say there weren’t specific brands doing their best to enact change in the industry. Christian Siriano is known for his inclusive collections and was the New York designer with the most size-diverse runway. While in London, Sinead O’Dwyer and Fashion East featured the most inclusive collections.
The Autumn/Winter 2023 season did see a refreshing amount of age diversity on the runway though. According to Tagwalk, 61 older models walked in Paris, while 50 older models walked in Milan. In addition to this, we saw a slew of prominent noughties models return to the runway, including Jessica Stam who walked in 11 shows and Caroline Trentini who walked in 5 shows.
THE NEW BEAUTY MOOD
We’re calling it the Wednesday Addams effect, as in the realm of beauty, gothic glamour dominated the runways this season. At Rodarte, models sported overexaggerated black liner alongside inky lips, while at Emilia Wickstead and Erdem, models had smokey eyes in dark charcoal shades. Bora Asku took direct cues from the Netflix hit, sending models down the runway with plaited hair and black lipstick.
THE FAVOURITES
It was the finale to end an eventful Fashion Month and the theatrical Chanel Paris show did not disappoint. Floor-to-ceiling screens greeted us at the Grand Palais Éphémère with '60s-style black and white film montages featuring Japanese actress and ambassador Nana Komatsu. Inside centre stage, a giant white camellia flower loomed large while delicate buds of the signature flower adorned our seats and the collection. The show - ‘delicate and in motion’ according to the show notes was timeless Chanel but with a hint of '60s Carnaby Street. Plenty of tweed, predominantly black and white with pink and pastel flushes and distinctive mod-style looks. Key pieces included elegant coat dresses, A-line skirts and knee-high lace-up black-toe boots. The models were more diverse than elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week and gift bags included products from its N0 1 collection featuring sustainability-sourced ingredients. What’s not to love?
I'm taking this moment to give it up for #LFW. London has always been about championing and nurturing new and exciting talent. I loved Ahluwalia, Connor Ives, Feben and Chet Lo because, for me, this season was all about the JOY that clothes can bring. These shows had this by the bucketload and each collection was packed with seriously wearable—and highly covetable—clothing.
Stella McCartney’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection celebrated the designer’s lifelong love of horses and was staged inside the Manège de l’École Militaire, which is France’s oldest horse riding school. Throughout the show, models walked adjacent to six white ponies in a show that was decidedly unique and certainly one of the most memorable moments from A/W23.
