In An Industry Obsessed With Change, Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Proves Consistency is Power

A ten-year tenure in a single job is an impressive achievement by any standard, but even more so in the fashion industry. A highly volatile ecosystem, it exists in perpetual motion, always chasing the next big thing; an industry that not only thrives on change, but single-mindedly pursues it. The past year alone provides ample proof, with its unprecedented stream of creative director appointments, abrupt departures, and leadership reshuffles at many of the world’s top luxury houses—or, as WWD so aptly coined it, the year of “fashion’s furious game of musical chairs”.

Amid all the chaos, however, and against industry odds, one creative director has successfully stayed the course—and with dazzling results. I’m referring, of course, to Anthony Vaccarello: the Belgian-born designer who has helmed Saint Laurent since 2016, and whose consistency and resilience have been precisely his forte.

“Anthony Vaccarello stepped into Saint Laurent with very big shoes to fill after the Hedi Slimane era, and he’s truly made the role his own,” says Lori Hirshleifer, owner of cult New York retailer Hirshleifers. That included building on the success of Slimane’s sexy, rock’n’roll aesthetic and ‘Yves’-less rebrand, whilst sharpening it into something sleeker and more assured, imbued with archival references, impeccable tailoring and a distinctly Parisian sensuality. Think: sharp-shoulder silhouettes, fluid dresses, tailored jackets, dramatic coats, leathers, sheer fabrics, monochrome palettes, and after-dark glamour—and by and large, Vaccarello’s brilliance has been to resolutely stick with this same vision ever since.

“From a buyer’s perspective, the clarity and consistency of Vaccarello’s vision has been key to Saint Laurent’s continued strength, and success for us season after season,” explains Hirshleifer. Where many brands have lost their identity and niche in the market by constantly changing direction, Vaccarello has bet big on one overarching Saint Laurent ‘look’ that’s more timeless than trend-led, yet constantly refreshed and refined to feed that insatiable thirst for newness.

And clearly, it’s working: the past decade has seen Saint Laurent transform from a strong but comparatively small fashion brand into a multi-billion-euro powerhouse. One that, according to Business of Fashion, has seen sales more than double under Vaccarello, and all this against the backdrop of an overall luxury market slowdown.

But what is it about Vaccarello’s vision that resonates so strongly with luxury customers today? According to luxury content creator, longtime Saint Laurent customer and ‘friend of the house’, Hannah Strafford Taylor, it’s that “he truly understands women”. She explains: “Anthony Vaccarello has an instinctive grasp of how a woman wants to look and feel, creating powerful silhouettes that celebrate and embrace the body and never disguise it. Personally, I love how he balances strength and sensuality; his designs are undeniably sexy and provocative yet they are also always controlled and elegant. It’s almost like the confidence you feel when wearing Saint Laurent is the most seductive element of all.”

Vaccarello’s knack for creating a cult must-have product also can’t be denied, be it in the form of timeless outerwear (Strafford Taylor dubs his leather and suede jackets the ultimate “forever pieces” that have become “constant go-tos”), modern-classic bags (namely, the celebrity-loved Le 5 à 7 and oversize Icare tote), rock-chick sunglasses, sculptural logo heels, ubiquitous (and endlessly copied) Le Loafer, or the most recent ultra-pointy Amalia and Jeanne slingbacks, that went viral almost as soon as they first appeared on the runway.

Speaking of the runway… Under Vaccarello, the bi-annual Saint Laurent shows have become one of the hottest tickets on the Paris Fashion Week calendar—and have helped strengthen the brand’s cultural cachet even further. Cinematic, ultra-glamorous, and instantly recognisable, the Saint Laurent show is another lesson in the power of consistency, taking place each season at the iconic Place du Trocadéro under the glittering Tour Eiffel, after dark. The perfect backdrop against which to reveal his newest collections, that invariably spark a major social media moment—much helped by his loyal coterie of cool girls (Zoe Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, Kate Moss, Madonna, Charli XCK, BLACKPINK’s Rosé) who are proudly perched front row, too.

As Strafford Taylor explains: “With most brands I’m drawn to certain seasons or moments, but every time Anthony presents a runway collection it feels consistently exceptional, and it blows me away. Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent isn’t simply a fashion label; it’s an attitude and a lifestyle. It embodies a complete cultural language, encompassing far more than clothing alone.”

Little wonder, then, that 2025 saw Saint Laurent top the Lyst Index for the first time ever, as the world’s ‘hottest brand’. It’s “a reflection of how a consistent creative vision is resonating globally,” says Lyst Curation Manager Barbara Janeczek. “While much of the industry has cycled through creative leadership, Vaccarello’s 'slow and steady wins the race' approach has paid off at a time when consumers are craving stability and clarity. He has built a recognisable, confident Saint Laurent aesthetic without losing commercial appeal, with strong house codes, iconic branding and hero products that continue to perform season after season—making the brand’s current success feel both durable and deeply relevant."

An important reminder that—in fashion as in life—a strong sense of self will always trump temporary buzz. Here’s to another ten years…