If there's one thing we can all universally agree on, it's that there's nothing fun about having an ingrown hair. They're sore, itchy, and look red and inflamed, meaning just one can cause all sorts of issues.
However, whether they appear on your bikini line, face, underarms or legs, there are ways to prevent them, and effective treatments if they do. I spoke to dermatologists and hair removal experts and asked for their best advice on dealing with them.
Bookmark this page for when you're next in combat with one.
What actually are ingrown hairs?
You've most likely experienced an ingrown hair at some point; you're not alone, they're incredibly common. But while you may know what they look like (sometimes you can see the hair, other times they look like a spot), it's normal to need a refresher on what they actually are and why they form.
"I describe ingrown hairs as strands that curl back into the skin instead of growing outward, triggering local inflammation," explains Consultant Dermatologist at sk:n clinics, Dr Aiza Jamil "The skin reads this as a small foreign body reaction, which is why you see redness, tenderness or tiny bumps." They can affect any area where hair grows, but most commonly in places where it's curly or coarse. Dr Jamil says the most common areas she sees in her patients are the face, the bikini line, and the underarms.
In terms of how they form, it's pretty much how you would imagine: "a hair struggles to break through the skin’s surface and reroutes sideways or back into the follicle. This can happen when the skin is dry or congested, or when the hair has been cut bluntly and sits too close to the surface."
What causes ingrown hairs?
As Dr Jamil mentioned, ingrown hairs most commonly occur when the skin is dry or congested. There are other factors, though, and some that can make ingrowns more likely. "Those with curly or more coarse hair may find the hair curves back under the skin more easily," says Helen Quayle, CEO and Founder of LaserHQ, who adds: "Genetics can also be a factor, with higher keratin levels causing the hair to grow inwards."
Certain forms of hair removal can also make you more prone to them. For example, since I started epilating my legs, I've noticed them far more often. Shaving, even with the best razors, can also increase your chances of getting them. "It can increase the risk because it cuts the hair at a sharp angle and close to the surface, which encourages it to curl inward as it regrows," notes Dr Jamil. Waxing can cause them too, but usually only if the hair breaks rather than being cleanly pulled from the root.
Can you prevent ingrown hairs?
The good news is that, yes, you can prevent ingrown hairs. As with many things, prevention can actually be more effective than treatment. Unsurprisingly, exfoliation plays a key role: it keeps the follicle clear, meaning hair can grow out properly through the skin. Monica Ella Botros, Managing Director at Strip Hair Removal Experts recommends "exfoliating on dry or lightly damp skin to make the product more effective." She says using gentle, cream-based exfoliators on sensitive areas will also help avoid irritation.
Similarly, washing with an antibacterial formula can keep the skin clean and reduce inflammation, Botros adds. And as for hair removal? The best options are a regular wax routine to ensure a more uniform re-growth pattern or laser removal, which reduces the number of active follicles.
As friction can also lead to ingrown hairs (and make them worse), it's also a good idea to wear loose clothing in areas where you are prone to them.
How to treat an ingrown hair
We all get ingrown hairs now and again, so as much as preventative measures are key, knowing how to treat them when you get one is the next best thing.
Start by applying a warm compress, says Quayle, who explains this can "soothe any inflammation" and "soften the skin [to] encourage the hair to find a better exit route." Next, gently exfoliate the area—you can use gentle acids you'd use on your face (such as lactic acid), or you could invest in a specific ingrown hair treatment, which combines the appropriate exfoliating acids. Keep the area clean, using antibacterial washes, and avoid picking or squeezing (as tempting as this may be).
If things don't improve, see a doctor or dermatologist—they can give you personalised advice, as well as access to professional treatments such as chemical skin peels or retexturing treatments.
Switching your method of hair removal may also be essential. As mentioned, waxing or laser will be your best bet for this, and will treat at the source: the hair follicle.
