I'm not surprised that my TikTok algorithm delivered me countless videos of the viral 11-step haircare routine, said to deliver dry and damaged hair back from the brink. I'm constantly on the hunt for clever tricks and hardworking products that aid me on my own hair health journey. As someone who bleached their hair and heat styled it for years, restoring it to health has been a tough and very slow process.
I was delighted to see the impressive before and afters, and was all for giving it a go myself; however, with TikTok beauty trends, it's always good to exercise a little caution. I know just how easy it is to be drawn into social media trends, especially those that necessitate you spending half your monthly earnings on a new roster of shampoos, masks and serums.
So I decided to do a little investigation before I dove headfirst into the extensive haircare step-by-step.
What is an 11-step haircare routine?
Chances are, you know about the iconic 12-step Korean skincare routine; well, now it's our hair's turn. This new multi-step regimen was developed to heal hair that's dry, damaged, broken, or not growing. The routine includes steps for pre-wash, in-shower and post-wash styling (more on the specifics below), with a range of products recommended for each one.
Created by TikToker and Trichologist Abbey Yung, the 11-step hair care routine has been a hit with her followers who have been putting it to the test. This has kick-started a stream of before-and-after pictures and videos that have saturated TikTok feeds for quite some time now. As a result, Yung's follower count and engagement have shot up by an impressive amount.
Is it recommended by trichologists?
As a certified trichologist herself, it's fair to say that we hope that we can put trust in The Abbey Yung Method. But I wanted to know what other experts, those not affiliated with the method, really think about it.
Both experts I spoke with—trichologists Hannah Gaboardi and Marta Teixeira—agreed that routines like these do encourage us to take proper care of our hair and focus on its journey. They also say that by incorporating quality products and investing in your hair, it can make all the difference to its health. However, they have their reservations about the full 11 steps.
"An effective routine should be concise, purposeful and tailored to your individual needs, not overloaded with unnecessary steps," comments Gaboardi. "Abbey’s 11-step routine is, in my professional opinion, excessive. As a trichologist, I see patients every day who invest in countless products because influencers promote complicated routines, yet these steps often do little for true hair health or hair growth."
In fact, they can even become counter-productive, with Gaboardi pointing out potential issues with product build-up (both at the scalp and the hair, making it look dull) and overuse of protein (which can ironically cause more breakage in the long-term) as potential risks. Teixeira adds that cost, time and the environmental impact of using all these products so regularly are also considerations.
Instead, they say, you should prioritise certain steps over others. "A truly effective routine should prioritise scalp health, hair-shaft resilience and consistent maintenance—not unnecessary layering," says Gaboardi. This starts with an effective shampoo. "Beyond cleansing, treatments such as deep conditioners, protein masks and bond repair products can be extremely effective when they are used appropriately," she adds, while acknowledging that leave-in conditioners, serums and lightweight styling products can also definitely add value.
In terms of what you can skip, however, both experts agree that there's no need for so many bond repair products in a single routine. "Doubling up does not intensify the results; it simply adds another step without meaningful benefit," notes Gaboardi. Teixeira says you also may not need a clarifying shampoo once you lose some of the 11 steps, as it may just serve to reduce the product build-up caused by them.
The between-wash care is also non-essential. "These steps can accumulate on the scalp, weigh down the hair and cause irritation, often creating the very problems clients are trying to avoid," says Gaboardi.
The 11 steps
Whether trichologists approve or not, there's no denying Abbey Yung's method has experienced phenomenal success – and I have to say, the before and after videos (and hundreds of success stories in the comments from fans) do tell a very compelling story. So it must be working for some, right?
If you fancy trying it out for yourself, here's what to include. And remember, if you only want to pick and choose certain steps, the aforementioned trusted trichologists say this is totally OK (and in some cases, preferable!).
1. Pre-shampoo bond treatment
Yung recommends applying one of these at least 10 minutes before washing, once or twice a week.
2. Pre-shampoo oil treatment
Another step before you've even got into the shower, Yung says to apply one of these 20 minutes before washing your hair. She does recommend skipping this step if you are using post-wash bond treatments (step seven).
3. Clarifying Shampoo
Clarifying shampoos helped to cleanse the scalp and rid it of dirt and products buildup. You can use this once or twice a week.
4. Non-clarifying shampoo / targeted shampoo
On the days you don't use a clarifying shampoo, Yung says to use an everyday shampoo, or one that's targeted if you suffer from conditions like dandruff.
5. Bond repair treatments
The type of product here depends on how often you should reach for it. K18 can only be used every few weeks, whereas others she recommends (Redken's, OGX's, Garnier's etc) can be applied "once a week, or more if needed."
6. Conditioner
Yung states that at this stage, you can use one of three conditioning products in the shower: a gloss, conditioner or mask. She also comments that you can use more than one in a single hair wash cycle.
7. Post-wash bond repair treatment
Yung says this step is optional, but if you do want to include it, you can use Living Proof's product once or twice a week, and wait 10 minutes before applying anything else.
8. Leave-in conditioner & heat protection
Post-wash, she recommends spritzing in a leave-in conditioner and heat protector 'liberally'.
9. Styling
This step is down to personal preference, everything from volume-boosting sprays or texturisers.
10. Styler
Yung calls this a 'final style sealer', which can be a serum, cream or oil.
11. Between wash-care
Between each wash, you can use things like oils, heat protection sprays and dry shampoos as part of your styling routine.
