I'm never not bemoaning the state of my once-glorious nail beds. Getting acrylics in the Deep South on holiday five years ago was perhaps the biggest beauty-related mistake of my life, as removing those inch thick gels required not one but six passes with the drill. To cover up the mess underneath, I committed to getting a manicure every two weeks for the following year. The result was flattened nail beds, which were peeling, brittle, and unable to grow.
However, this time last year, I decided enough was enough, and went cold turkey on the salon, instead opting for restorative, at-home treatments. It's been a process of trial and error, but generally speaking, my nails are in much better condition, and are (touch wood) growing long and strong. I chalk this up to several things—treatment products and not getting gels—but I think the change that made the biggest difference was the most simple: cuticle care.
While they were previously neglected, I discovered that the more I took care of the delicate skin around my nail beds, the stronger and healthier they grew—and my hands looked manicured to boot. It is key, nail guru Leighton Denny MBE tells me. "Keeping your cuticles nourished not only makes your nails look healthier, but a good cuticle oil will help reinforce the nail plate, help prevent hangnails and breakage, and massaging it in helps stimulate nail growth. Plus, you wouldn’t put a beautiful picture in a scruffy frame, so keep them healthy and moisturised."
While cuticle oil doesn't actually make your nails grow faster, Denny explains that using it keeps the nails and skin around them soft and hydrated, preventing them from becoming brittle, peeling, or breaking. This in turn helps them grow longer and look stronger, creating the ideal environment for healthy nail growth.
But like with anything, consistency is essential. Denny recommends applying cuticle oil at least twice a day—morning and evening—and especially after washing your hands: "You can never over-moisturise, but you can under-moisturise, so use it regularly. Keeping a cuticle oil with you makes it easy to maintain this routine, and regular use keeps cuticles hydrated and nails flexible, helping reduce breakage."
And make sure you apply it correctly, too. "While we call it cuticle oil, you should apply it not just to the cuticle itself, but to the area where the nail meets the skin," explains the nail expert. "The goal is for the nourishing ingredients to soak into the skin around the nail plate, and gently massage it in to encourage circulation."
My tried and tested holy-grail cuticle oils
Leighton Denny MBE's tips for long, strong nails
- Use a Crystal File: "Investing in a good quality crystal nail file is a game-changer. They seal the tip of the nail as you file, helping prevent splits and encouraging strength. They last forever, making them incredibly affordable in the long run"
- File, Don't Saw: "If you’re not using a crystal nail file, only ever file your nails in one direction. Do not saw back and forth, as this can create micro-tears in the nail layers, leading to peeling and breakage. However, as I said above, if you are using a Crystal Nail File, you can file back and forth safely, as it gently seals the tips while shaping"
- Wear Gloves: "Water is a nail’s enemy. Excessive exposure to water, especially when cleaning with detergents, severely dries out and weakens the nail plate. Always wear gloves when washing dishes or cleaning"
- More Layers Doesn’t Mean Longer Lasting: "Applying multiple thick layers of nail polish or treatments won’t make them last longer. In fact, thick layers are more prone to chipping and peeling. Thin, even layers allow the product to adhere better, dry properly, and give a smoother, longer-lasting finish"
- Nail Facials: "Regularly exfoliate and hydrate your nails and cuticles, like with an at-home nail facial, to prevent dryness and peeling and keep nails strong and healthy. My mantra is to treat your nails as you would your complexion, hence my focus on skincare for nails"
- Cap Those Tips: "This is the easiest way to prevent chipping. With every coat of polish - base coat, colour, and top coat - you must paint the edge of your nail. This seals the end of the nail, which is where most chipping begins"
