The 90s are calling, again. The latest nostalgic resurrection? Chocolate-brown lipstick. Once the shade of Kate, Naomi and Christy circa 1995—and, let’s be honest, our own school-disco staple (Rimmel Heather Shimmer, anyone?)—is now back in rotation. Only this time, it’s Lily James, Mia Goth and Hailey Bieber giving the shade a modern, grown-up edge. The new brown is cooler, softer, and actually flattering. "Brown has evolved into the modern nude more inclusive, more dimensional," explains Lancôme artist Juan Ballester Valdivia. It adds warmth and depth that lands right between cosy and confident. Scroll TikTok and you’ll find it everywhere: soft chocolate tints, glazed caramels, mocha glosses. The hashtag 'brown lipstick' has over seven million posts and counting.
The cultural shift is part of it, too. The new brown lip aligns with how we’re thinking about beauty now: less perfection, more individuality. "Trends often come from a place of nostalgia, which is why we’re experiencing a lot of the Y2K aesthetic," says Valdivia. And maybe that’s why it feels right for 2025. After years of frosted pinks and 'clean girl' minimalism, a slightly moodier, richer lip feels grounding—wearable, but with personality. “The current vibe leans towards glossy finishes inspired by the chocolate-glazed doughnut era,” adds Amy Rostas, Senior Buyer at Cult Beauty. “It’s far more versatile and easier to wear.”
How to choose a brown lipstick to suit you?
The new brown renaissance comes with inclusivity baked in. Back then, 'brown' was marketed for the bold; now it’s recognised as a neutral for many skin tones. For deeper complexions, it’s a timeless classic. For fairer tones, it’s an earthy alternative to pink that defines without shouting. “Cool tones look great with ashier browns, while warm skin pairs well with richer, caramel hues,” says Rostas. Makeup legend Bobbi Brown adds, “If your skin and lips are deeper, go for a blue or bronzy tone — the darker your skin, the more blue-toned your lipstick should be."
Texture, however, is everything. Back in the ’90s, brown lipstick was almost always matte—many were flat, unforgiving, and usually accompanied by dry lips. Now, formulas are lighter, balmier and infinitely more flattering. A gloss is a great place to start, "It's fresh and youthful—it modernises the brown lip," says Milk Makeup’s Senior Director of Artistry, Sara Wren. If you’re worried about longevity, go for matte formula; however, the prep is key to a successful finish according to Valdivia: "Moisturise lips first, line with slightly darker brown pencil to sculpt the shape, then apply the matte lipstick with a lip brush for precision." Or take a cue from Wren and use waterproof gel eyeliner (yes, eyeliner) on the lips—"it gives a smooth, long-lasting line that won’t budge."
For mature skin, opt for less harsh lines. "You can blend a liner into your lips for a fuller, poutier, more-smudged effect and top with a sheer brown gloss," explains Rostas.
Curiosity (and a sense of professional duty) won out, and I gave brown lips a go. I was hesitant, expecting it to make my skin look insipid, but I was surprised. The trick for me, I’ve since realised, is warmth: I have golden undertones, so browns with a hint of red or gold make my skin look alive, not drained. Wren gave me a tip that’s changed how I shop for brown tones: “Use your bronzer as a guide — if your lipstick’s in the same depth or family, it’ll flatter your complexion.”
Best chocolate brown lipsticks
1. Revolution Beauty Pout Lip Gloss Stick in Chocolate Ganache
This one surprised me. I expected sugary gloss, but what I got was a glossy-balm hybrid that delivers proper pigment with a soft, moisturising sheen. If you're after a brown tone that subtly enhances rather than dominates, this shade might feel a little strong. You may need to tone it down by blotting. For £6, it feels about triple the price, and gives a 'grown-up' vibe that's chic and comfortable to wear.
2. Milk Makeup Balmade in Quench
Think of this as the grown-up version of that lip balm you used to keep in your pocket at school — only far more chic. The texture has slip and feels juicy to wear, if a little sticky. And my lips look plumper without shouting about it. The colour is very sheer, so it's a great 'brown trend' starting point, perfect to wear on no make-up days when your lips need something. The squeezy tube can be a bit messy.
3. MAC Macximal Sleek Satin Lipstick in Crème In Your Coffee
The finish is that perfect in-between — not matte, not glossy — and the colour (a rich nude on me) feels like a power move for everyday. For very textured or dry lips, the pigment-plus-satin finish can draw attention to lip lines and any flaky bits. That being said, the colour stayed put through countless coffees and even a yoga class, with no re-application required.
4. Morphe Lip Filter Hydroplump Soft Matte Lipstick in Haze
The bullet looked bold, serious ss and a little tidy-up with concealer turned it from intimidating to wearable. The texture is forgiving thanks to a blurring effect that makes lips look smoother, and the brown tones stay rich rather than flat. One to pair with clean skin and brushed-up brows — effortless, not try-hard.
5. Jones Road The Classic Lip in Nudist
Lightweight, moisturising, with a barely-there satin finish that makes lips look… well, like lips. It’s subtle and polished; however, the staying power is decent, but not exceptional. You definitely need a refresh after a few hours. The shade Nudist is more ‘warm cup of chai’ than ‘90s brown', which might just be why I’ve worn it three days straight.
6. Lancôme Idole Tint in Rich Expresso
The colour payoff is rich and the finish is quite full-on, so it demands precision. One layer gives a stain, two layers turn it into a power lip. I noticed that it sets fast, too, so you need to be quick with any mishaps or to alter the shape. On mature skin, texture is everything, and this one earns points for being non-drying — it stays flexible, never flaky. If you’re after something you can slap on and go, it's not for you, as it requires more care than average.
