Most of us have turned a full circle trying to 'find the light' for a selfie. And almost every home has that mirror—the one that flatters and makes you feel momentarily polished and perfectly made up. However, like many of us, I’ve learned the hard way that good makeup can fall apart in the wrong lighting. You leave the house confident, then catch your reflection somewhere less forgiving and question everything.
The problem is rarely the products. It’s the light. Bathroom spotlights, office fluorescents, public transport glare, and evening interiors all alter how skin appears, shifting undertones, exaggerating texture, and sometimes, undoing otherwise excellent work. Makeup artists and photographers work with this instinctively, adjusting texture, tone and placement depending on the environment. Finding the right light isn’t vanity; it’s strategy. So how do you make makeup behave when the lighting really doesn’t?
Choose Shades That Don’t Disappear
Celebrity makeup artist Tania Grier points out that dull or unflattering lighting has a habit of draining colour from the face. Pale skin in particular can skew yellow or grey, especially under office lighting or on the tube. Her advice? Avoid eyeshadows that are too ashy. Cool grey tones on the lids can translate as shadow, making eyes look heavier and dark circles more pronounced. Instead, opt for slightly warmer matte shades, ideally with a touch of shimmer to attract light back onto the brow bone and lids. VISEART’s Minxette Etendu palette is a favourite for this—warm, flattering and easy to blend. The same rule applies to bronzer and contour. Anything too ashy will simply make you look tired. Warmth is what cuts through flat light. Makeup artist Daniel Sandler agrees: peachy corals, warm pinks and apricot tones bring life back into the skin. Cool mauves, by contrast, tend to fall flat or look grey in poor light.
Get The Base Right (It’s Not About More Coverage)
Both Grier and Sandler stress that flat makeup starts long before foundation. Skin prep is non-negotiable. Exfoliating once a week helps remove dull surface skin so makeup sits smoothly—Grier recommends Sapphire Dust Skin Activator for a weekly reset. Massaging moisturiser properly into the skin, rather than letting it sit on top, also makes a visible difference. When time is tight, SUQQU’s Aquafon Water Tuning Gel is one of those rare multitaskers that instantly makes skin look smoother and more alive.
Foundation-wise, matte bases are often the enemy in poor lighting. They can read flat and lifeless, especially under fluorescents. Grier suggests using a base that’s ever so slightly warmer than your true shade—even mixing a drop of your summer shade into your winter foundation can restore lost warmth. Radiant formulas like Sisley-Paris Phyto-Teint Ultra Eclat reflect light without looking shiny.
Sandler adds that natural or soft satin finishes perform best. Ultra-matte foundations exaggerate dryness, while overly dewy ones can look greasy under overhead light. Look for 'skin-like' or 'luminous' formulas with neutral-to-warm undertones, light to medium coverage and finely milled pigments. Hydration matters too—office lighting often goes hand in hand with air conditioning or central heating, both of which can sap moisture from the skin.
Application Is Everything
Yes, you can apply foundation with your fingers—but tools matter when you’re dealing with redness, blotchiness or fine lines. As we age, bases settle more easily, so blending light layers of products creates dimension that stands up to bad lighting. Grier recommends using sponges or brushes like the Dior Backstage Blender or Lisa Eldridge Seamless Blend Brush for a more seamless finish. Sandler’s rule is simple: light layers, blended well, hold their shape far better under bad lighting than one heavy application.
Placement That Survives Fluorescents
This is where small tweaks make a big difference. Both artists agree that the under-eye area deserves particular attention. Brightening dark circles with concealer or a peach-toned corrector helps neutralise the blue-grey shadows harsh lighting creates. Grier swears by Gatineau Miracle Eye Cream for prepping the area.
Blush placement should sit higher than you think. Under fluorescent lights, low or wide blush disappears and drags the face down. So apply it higher on the cheekbones and slightly forward, blending upward toward the temples. STILA Convertible Cream in Petunia and Daniel Sandler Watercolour liquid blush in Passion work beautifully across skin tones.
Contour should be minimal, diffused and placed higher than the natural hollow of the cheek. A sharp contour under the cheekbone can make the face look drawn and tired in poor lighting. Instead, bronzer works best applied above the cheekbone, close to the under-eye area, to create warmth and lift.
Highlight should be used sparingly. Large reflective areas can look greasy under flat light. Keep it satin, precise and limited to true high points—or skip it altogether and let good skincare do the work.
Distraction Techniques
For eyes, structure beats smoke. Blown-out looks lose definition under fluorescent light. Keep crease colour slightly higher and more defined, use matte mid-tones for shape, and place shimmer only where light naturally hits. Brown mascara is often more flattering than black in harsh light—Monika Blunder Architect Eyes Buildable Mascara is a standout. Skip heavy liner on the lower lash line and avoid false lashes, which can crowd the eye socket and look overly harsh overhead.
And finally, lipstick. One of the most effective tricks for poor lighting is simply wearing a brighter lip. It pulls focus away from under-eye shadows and grey skin, and makes the whole face feel more alive. Think poppy reds, corals and hot pinks. Prada’s Lava, Fuoco and Rubino are kit favourites.
The Holy Grail Lighting
Photographer Lulia David says natural daylight is always the most honest place to begin. Sitting near a window, with light coming from the front or slightly to the side, gives the clearest read on skin tone and texture. It softens transitions, helps makeup melt into the skin and makes everything look more balanced—even with minimal product.
When daylight isn’t an option, a daylight-balanced LED mirror or lamp is the next best thing. According to David, over-application often happens simply because people are working in dim or yellow lighting and compensating blindly. Neutral or daylight LEDs let you see what you’re actually doing. Beautifect Glow Mirror, which has adjustable lighting controls, is highly recommended. Direction matters just as much as brightness. Overhead bathroom lights are notoriously unforgiving, creating shadows under the eyes and nose and making makeup look heavier than it really is. Front-facing, diffused light is far kinder and allows makeup to stay lighter and fresher.
If you’re relying on household bulbs, warmer tones (around 3000K) tend to be more flattering than cool or fluorescent light, which can wash the skin out and exaggerate redness or uneven texture. Cooler light shows everything—great for retouching, less helpful for getting ready.
Makeup for bad lighting kit
