They say 'every face tells a story' and that couldn't be truer of mine at the moment. My face tells the story of a woman who has just returned from a week's holiday in Greece, where, despite wearing a factor 50 facial sunscreen every single day, alongside a beautiful wide-brimmed hat that complemented every single outfit, she has the tell-tale signs of sun exposure. There are freckles across the nose and uneven dark patches along the jawline and forehead. Cow print might have had a fashion moment earlier this year, but that sort of pattern across the complexion is evidence of hyperpigmentation.
Hyperpigmentation is, understandably, one of the biggest skin concerns post-summer. Increased UV exposure stimulates our pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) to produce more melanin as a defence mechanism. It can affect all ages and all skin types, but those with a history of freckles, dark sun spots, melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (left behind from conditions like acne or eczema) will often find that things get worse during the summer months.
As we move into the colder, autumnal months, now is the time to act. “Autumn is the ideal window to treat pigmentation," says Dr David Jack, an aesthetic doctor. "UV levels are lower, recovery is smoother, and we can meaningfully fade summer’s marks while rebuilding collagen." It’s important to remember sun damage isn’t just sunburn, he says. It affects every skin tone; UVA penetrates year-round, driving uneven tone and premature ageing.
Armed with the right ingredients, products, and treatment plan, hyperpigmentation can be effectively addressed. There are two routes you can take, which will be determined by the severity of your pigmentation. You can treat it at home by modifying your skincare routine, and for more serious cases, there's the in-clinic treatment option.
Here, skin experts reveal their recommended courses of action. Start now, at the beginning of the new season, and you should soon begin to see improvements that lead to a more even tone.
Bathroom cabinet saviours
Despite my best efforts on holiday, I came back with obvious pigmentation markers, but according to Dr Jack it happens all the time. "Even the most diligent SPF-wearers can find that pigmentation creeps in after repeated exposure," he says. "It's very common to come back from a summer of sun with freckles, dark spots across the forehead or an uneven skin tone." To help correct these patches, he says a consistent skincare routine is key. In the morning, you're aiming to protect your skin from any further UV damage, as well as environmental aggressors. Whereas the evening is when you go into renew-mode.
Alongside a good broad-spectrum SPF, Dr Jack recommends introducing an antioxidant serum first thing. Vitamin C is an antioxidant loved by dermatologists for its protective, brightening and anti-inflammatory properties; it does a great job at minimising the appearance of dark spots, too. Pigmentation-fighting serums, containing ingredients like niacinamide, kojic and tranexamic acids, reduce discolouration, brighten skin and improve tone.
At night, it's time to focus on accelerating cell turnover, lifting pigment and smoothing skin texture. You can do that with your traditional exfoliators—acids like glycolic and lactic suit most skin types, whereas oilier skin types will prefer salicylic. Mandelic acid works particularly well on darker skin tones, as it's non-irritating and won't cause inflammation. However, retinoids would be Dr Jack's first port of call. "Retinoids are, in my view, non-negotiable when treating pigmentation, as they encourage the skin to renew itself more evenly."
If you want to up the ante at home slightly, then Dr Jack's Yellow Peel combines a blend of retinoic acid and depigmenting agents to break up melanin clusters and push pigment to the surface, when it naturally sheds.
Get help from the professionals
For more stubborn hyperpigmentation issues, there are treatments available in clinics that can work alongside the above products. “Superficial sun damage is fairly simple to treat, but deeper sun damage can be harder to reverse, especially in older individuals," says Dr Dara Suite, medical director & aesthetic doctor at The Well. She suggests peels, antioxidant facials, vitamin booster IV drips, certain lasers and various collagen-boosting treatments, like radio frequency and ultrasound, which can help boost the production of collagen. However, she warns that those with darker skin tones should always be wary of lasers, as they could trigger an inflammatory response and further exacerbate pigmentation issues.
When it comes to lasers, Debbie Thomas is the one to see. One of the UK's most experienced laser specialists in the UK, she has performed over 35,000 laser and advanced skin treatments. New to the D.Thomas clinic is the LaseMD Ultra, an innovative laser technology that promises impressive pigment-busting results and has been designed to work on all skin tones and types. Perfect for combating summer holiday pigmentation, it also works on stubborn melasma and post-inflammatory discolouration.
Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and facial aesthetics doctor, launches the Melasma Protocol at her clinic in London this month. The two-tiered treatment programme is designed to "disrupt the pigmentation cycle, calm inflammation, and strengthen skin from within". The treatment combines laser with prescription skincare, cutting-edge resurfacing technologies and regenerative active ingredients. "Melasma is notoriously complex and challenging to treat long-term," she says. "Having struggled with melasma myself, I deeply understand its physical and emotional impact. This protocol is the result of years of clinical research, hands-on experience and testing every major modality available. This is the most effective and comprehensive management I have worked with."
At Dr Jack's clinic on Harley Street, he has a dedicated Pigmentation Facial on his treatment list, which is popular with his clients. It resurfaces, brightens, and restores clarity to the skin with the help of medical microneedling, dermaplanning and a gentle micropeel. Three sessions are generally all that's needed, and there is very little downtime following each treatment. However, for more established pigmentation, which he describes as "scattered sunspots or patchier areas of older pigmentation", he will bring out the big guns, a.k.a. Lumecca IPL. It targets pigment at different depths and "shatters it into particles the body can gradually clear".
