Recently, at a press launch for make-up brand Vieve, a conversation broke out about wearing cool-toned eyeshadows. Many of us in the room, as millennials, visibly winced at the mention of muted browns and clay-greys: so accustomed to embracing warmth, we just weren't used to experimenting with this colour palette. However, after a speedy tutorial that unfolded right in front of our eyes, we were quickly proven wrong. I'm here to announce, therefore, that cool eyeshadow tones are officially back.
Here's why it might be high time you made room for the coolness...
The comeback of cool tones: why now?
As a millennial, I always learnt to shy away from cool tones and lean into warm browns, shimmering golds and rich burgundys. And I know I'm not alone: for many of us, there is an innate fear of greys, clays and muted browns. "There’s a nostalgic hesitation around cool tones, and it probably stems from those early 2000s frosty blue eyeshadows and silvery greys that felt more metallic robot than modern chic," says Jamie Genevieve, make-up artist and founder of Vieve. "We’ve grown comfortable in our safe zone of warm browns, bronzes, and golds because they feel wearable and flattering."
Genevieve notes that cooler tones "can feel a bit bold and unfamiliar, especially when we’re so used to the warmth, adding that sun-kissed effect." However, she says, "with the right approach, cool tones can be just as flattering." The benefits of wearing these hues are undeniable: "They’re also perfect for making eye colours pop, especially blue and green eyes, and can neutralise redness on the lids," she adds, while Aimee Connolly, make-up artist and founder of Sculpted By Aimee believes that they "can give a fresh and clean look [and] help define the eyes without looking too heavy."
Who does this look best suit?
The good news is, cool-toned eye make-up can look beautiful on everyone, with options for different eye colours and skin tones. "If you have blue, green, or hazel eyes, cool tone shadows really make them pop," says Connolly. She adds those those with fair skin tend to suit cooler greys, silvers, and soft taupe colours, whereas people with medium to deeper skin tones look amazing in slate, cool brown, and navy.
You may also want to consider your undertones, says Genevieve, who notes that cool eyeshadow tones particularly suit those with neutral, cool or pink/blue skin undertones. That doesn't mean those with warmer, golden undertones have to miss out, however; it's just about knowing how to bring the rest of your make-up together to complement the style. "Some cooler shades can feel stark or washed out, but that doesn’t mean you can’t wear them—I have learnt it’s all about how you balance the look," she explains. "Pairing cool eyes with a warm blush or bronzed skin can bring warmth back into the face and keep everything cohesive."
How to get the look
Application is key here: you want to ensure you are following certain guidelines in order to nail the look. First, says Connolly, remember that less is more. "Go in with a light hand—cool tones can go patchy or can be overpowering if you pack them on too quickly."
In terms of the kind of products to try if you're new to cool tones, the make-up artist recommends starting with a soft matte in the crease, then layering a shimmer on the lid "to add dimension." She finishes with a dramatic mascara [her Lash Lift Mascara is great] and a layer of liquid liner.
To really experiment with cool tones, I'd suggest picking up a palette with a range of shades, such as those featured below. Alternatively, you can't go wrong with a gorgeous clay-brown cream shadow stick, like the one by Laura Mercier.
Best cool-toned eyeshadows
Cool-toned eye make-up inspo
For daytime, stick to a light layer of clay-brown powder eyeshadow and combine with some subtle mascara for the most gorgeous understated vibe.
Amp it up in the PM with more of a cool grey-brown smoky eye look, taking the shadow down beneath the lower lashes for a lined effect.
The key here is to keep things subtle, particularly if you're a newbie to cooler tones on the eyes and want to dip your toe in first.
Combining a pretty pinky blush and faux freckles can add warmth to the face when wearing cooler tones on the eyes.
Line the eyes with a black kohl pencil for more of a dramatic effect.
Adding lashes and even bleached brows can offer more of an editorialised, sophisticated take on cool tones.
