I have acne-prone skin, so struggle with the “clean girl” make-up look—I asked a professional for help

There’s no denying that over the past decade, beauty trends have been dominated by one thing: skin. And the last few years in particular have seen our obsession with sheer bases, pared-back routines, and an ever-present 'clean girl' aesthetic leaving our once treasured full-coverage foundations to gather dust. Of course, the allure of dewy skin and that elusive lit-from-within glow is understandable—minimalist make-up looks fresh and modern and feels like it’s a celebration of natural skin. But while this barely-there look might feel freeing to some, it can feel very different to those of us who are self-conscious about our skin.

Yes, as someone who has written extensively about having acne since I was a teenager, it has taken me a long time to get comfortable with stepping outside and letting my natural skin shine. And I have to admit, on days when I’m dealing with a particularly big breakout, there’s nothing freeing about slapping on a tinted moisturiser when what I need is a heavy-duty foundation. Leaving my real skin on show sounds empowering in theory, but in practice can leave me feeling self-conscious and exposed, especially as someone who writes about skin for a living. So, what’s the solution for those who want to embrace a clean girl make-up look but also want the safety blanket of some extra coverage?

Ahead, I caught up with top make-up expert, and the beauty industry’s queen of complexion, Adeola Gboyega to get her advice on how to create a fresh and natural make-up look while still covering those areas that I don’t want to show off. Think of it as clean girl make-up for real skin. Let’s get into her top tips and how I got on when I followed it…

The clean girl make-up routine for acne skin

Before we get into the clean girl make-up for acne routine, this is my skin on a pretty typical day. I'm not in the midst of a hormonal breakout right now (thankfully), but you can see that I have pigmentation on my skin, some redness, and a few spots that are hanging around on my cheeks and chin.

1. Prep your skin

“The ‘clean girl’ look is all about healthy, radiant skin, so a well-prepped base is key—and hydration is essential,” explains Adeola. This means, before you even think about applying any make-up, you need to get your skincare in check. “Whether you have acne or redness, a good moisturiser and a dewy primer can help to create the perfect canvas before applying foundation,” Adeola explains.

2. Colour correct

Pigmentation in the skin often counteracts that even tone that we’re used to seeing on modern make-up looks, and I personally have a lot of discolouration on my skin from old acne scarring. To combat this, Adeola swears by using a colour corrector. “For brown patches or dark spots, a peach or orange-toned corrector works well to neutralise the pigmentation,” she explains. “I like to apply this before foundation to avoid layering on too much product, which can result in a cakey finish.”

3. Buildable base

While you might think that skin tints and tinted moisturisers are the only base options for a barely-there make-up look, Adeola suggests that a lightweight, buildable foundation can work for those of us who have acne, rosacea or other things we want to cover up. “Heavier foundations can settle into fine lines and emphasise them, while a more flexible foundation will allow for coverage without drawing attention to areas of concern,” she explains. To help aid that dewy finish, Adeola recommends using a damp make-up sponge. “This will absorb excess edges, smooth out edges and melt the product into the skin for a natural effect.”

4. Spot conceal

For me, it’s breakouts that tend to really knock my confidence, and while I love how skin tints look on the clear parts of my face, they offer very little in the way of coverage. Adeola recommends finding a concealer that matches your skin tone exactly to cover spots precisely. “Apply it just where needed, then blend it with a damp sponge or fingertip for the most natural finish,” she says. “This approach lets you achieve coverage only where necessary, maintaining a minimal make-up look overall.”

5. Dewy touches

Finally, beyond the base, Adeola suggests looking at the texture of the product that you use for things like blush and bronzer when adding colour to your face. This will help create that sheer, fresh finish without compromising the coverage beneath. “Look for brightening finishes that refresh the face and cream or jelly textures that are easy to apply and give a dewy flush,” explains Adeola. “That way you can enhance your features while still using that strategic coverage beneath to feel confident while keeping your make-up look fresh and effortless.”

The finished clean girl make-up for acne look

After following all of Adeola's advice, I have to say that I was delighted with the finished look. Admittedly, it did take a little longer than my usual routine of just slapping on a skin tint and heading out the door (even if that doesn't always mean that I'm feeling my best when I do so), but the extra few minutes were well worth it. My skin looks naturally bright and radiant, and while you can still see some of my skin's natural texture, the pigmentation and visible blemishes have been completely dialled down so my skin looks fresh and clear at first glance. The only addition to the routine that I made was finishing with a spritz of the Milk Makeup Pore Eclipse Setting Spray, purely because the finished look was really dewy, and I wasn't sure that it would last the day on my oily skin.