Korean Make-Up Taught Me to Embrace My Asian Features—These Are the Holy Grail Formulas I Swear By

Let’s face it, the buzz around Korean skincare isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. From milky rice toners and soothing centella creams to brightening toner pads, it’s clear that our skincare cupboards have had quite the revamp. Korean skincare has also made us rethink our beauty priorities, encouraging us to ditch stripping and irritating actives in favour of barrier-repairing formulas.

But as a journalist who specialises in all things K-Beauty, I also must inform you of another product category that’s equally as deserving of your attention—Korean make-up. Rooted in a skin-first philosophy, it's the antidote to the pigment-heavy approach that we’ve become so accustomed to with Western formulations.

“When I use Western formulas, what I often notice is the instant payoff. They’re designed to deliver clear, visible results, high coverage, bold colour payoff, and that smooth, airbrushed finish,” says Korean make-up artist Kelly Shin. “But Korean makeup takes a slightly different approach. It’s not just about how your skin looks today—it’s also about how it feels tomorrow.”

“In Korean beauty, the boundary between skincare and makeup is blurred,” she adds. “It’s makeup that not only makes your skin look good, but keeps it healthy.”

According to Kelly, there’s a term called gyeol (결: noun). “There’s no direct equivalent in English, but it refers to the natural grain or texture of the face—whether it’s the skin’s surface, the direction of brow hairs, or the fine separation of lashes. Instead of covering up these features, Korean makeup focuses on embracing them.”

“That’s why cream/serum type blushes or lightweight cushion foundations that enhance rather than mask your skin’s natural texture are so loved in Korea,” she explains. She tells me that the ‘gyeol’ philosophy has been there “even before the global K beauty boom.”

With this in mind, Kelly describes that some of the key fundamental steps of a Korean makeup look largely focus on “a lightweight base using a brush to create skin-like texture, a serum-like watery blush that blends seamlessly, a mascara that defines natural lashes but slightly longer and thicker, and lip products that look like your real lips without the heavy pigment.”

Having dipped my toes (or rather, face) into the world of Korean make-up, I quickly discovered the benefits first-hand. Since I have rosacea-prone and sensitive skin, I’ve always been a bit cautious about trying new products, which is why I was so intrigued about the skin-first approach of Korean formulas. Lo and behold, each product ended up not only performing, but caring for my skin in the process, too.

As someone who comes from Asian heritage, but has lived the majority of my life in a Western country, my journey with make-up has been an uphill battle. Since I spent the better part of my life adhering to Western beauty standards, I forgot how to do makeup that actually complements me—so much so that intense sculpting, overuse of bronzer and perfectly carved out lips have started to feel like second nature.

In a way, discovering Korean make-up has helped me come full circle and gain a new appreciation for my heritage. I was no longer tempted to mould my face, eyes and cheeks into something that didn’t complement my natural features.

The more I learned about the products, the more curious I became about the application, too. And after a few ambitious (albeit unsuccessful) attempts to turn myself into a K Pop idol from the comfort of my bedroom, I learned that precise placement and technique are just as important to nailing the look.

“When I work with clients who’ve learned makeup from Western YouTube tutorials, they tend to focus on placing blush high on the cheekbones, heavy contour under the cheekbone and nose, and strong concealer under the eyes — all of which are completely opposite to the Korean makeup approach,” shares Kelly.

“In Korea, what’s most on-trend right now is applying blush from just beneath the eyes (including the ‘aegyosal’ area) down to around where the nose ends (but not below). The key is a seamless blend, so there’s no harsh line showing where the blush starts or ends."

And as far as innovation goes, Korean make-up doesn't fail to deliver. From blurring lip liners that existed before the viral Rhode peptide lip shapes entered the game to hybrid matte-to-cream blurring blushers and hydrating lip tints, it's clear that Korean formulas are a few steps ahead.

That said, similar to Korean skincare, unless you’re ‘in-the-know’, figuring out which make-up products are worth it can prove a bit tricky. So, to help you find your way around all the different products, I’ve put together a definitive edit of the most coveted formulas around—many of which have taken up prime real estate in my make-up bag.

Best Korean make-up products, tried & tested

1. The complexion heroes

2. The blushes

3. The eye makeup

4. The lips