Fashion month is almost over for another season, and what a season it was. Designers still pulled out all the stops at New York Fashion Week, London and Milan Fashion Week with their SS22 collection, presented with IRL catwalk shows for the first time in what feels like forever. Here’s everything you we’ve loved at Paris so far, from Dior’s gorgeous mini skirts to Saint Laurent’s glam looks.
Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri kicked off proceedings in style with her SS22 collection (main picture), inspired by ‘curiosity, desire, and research’. She looked to the richness of the 1960s and, more specifically, Marc Bohan’s tenure as Creative Director of the House for inspiration. This translated into the revival of iconic silhouettes such as the mini skirt and the ‘slim look’ (“It completely changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1947,” Grazia says), re-imagined in geometric patterns and primary hues.
The SS22 Saint Laurent collection refers to a fundamental yet a not so well known moment in the couturier’s Pierre Bergé’s (co-founder of Saint Laurent) career, when he met Paloma Picasso. The moment opened up free new artistic paths for him, abolishing the solemn borders of haute couture, polite decorum and even the prescriptive good taste.
Anthony Vaccarello wanted to pay tribute to Paloma Picasso’s independence of spirit. Her freedom, her instincts, her energy which let her breathe freely. Freeing himself from being judged. This collection is an ode to emancipation, and a call to subversive seduction—something that has always been intrinsic to the house. A celebration of a woman who is singular in every way, effortlessly inventive in every aspect of her appearances, always projecting a studied nonchalance. She thrillingly unsettles with her way of associating the masculine with the glamourous.
The model Vivienne Rohner taking a photo: this is the black and white portrait that appears on the invitation and in the decor for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show: “Because fashion is about clothes, models and photographers,” confides Virginie Viard. “Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the CHANEL campaigns himself. Today, I call upon photographers. I love the way that they see CHANEL. It supports and inspires me.” The duo Inez & Vinoodh have signed the images for this collection, including five films featuring Lily-Rose Depp, Alma Jodorowsky, JENNIE, Rebecca Dayan and Quannah Chasinghorse-Potts all repeating the same gesture, a camera in hand. “It's a magical object and a sexy gesture, which evokes so many memories. I used to love the sound of flashbulbs going off at the shows in the eighties, when the models were on a raised runway. I wanted to recapture that emotion.” And recreate that type of runway at the Grand Palais Éphémère, a human-sized space whose atmosphere made her yearn for, “a lot of very simple bathing suits in gold or white with black trimmings. Short dresses in pink or mauve tweed, fishnet skirts, jackets embellished with multicolour crochet and denim suits. There are also a lot of prints: big, colourful butterfly wings on black chiffon.” Certain silhouettes are punctuated with a big shopper or a soft quilted bag embellished with a large chain. The flared heels and the buckles of the Mary-Janes and sandals “remind us of pirate shoes,” Virginie Viard says with amusement. “I always like to have something romantic. A touch of mystery.”
A desire for transmission. The Spring-Summer 2022 collection is an invitation to le grand bal of Time. Tonight, time is of no consequence. Yet time is everything. It dissolves functions and codes. It unites wardrobes. Day becomes night. The humble uniform becomes sumptuous.
From yesterday to today. The present moment. Clothing as the conduit. The experience of dressing, a voice that carries on. Leading the countdown and staying one step ahead. The transformative creative fusion of generations. A vibrant flow of style. The night will be all the more beautiful.
The codes and culture around sport are an ongoing obsession for Louise Trotter, informing her dynamic approach to Lacoste as a veritable pillar of French sportswear. Drawn from the world of tennis – the brand’s very lifeblood – to cycling, basketball and other city sports, the spirit of movement, lightness and functionality is paramount in her design process. By considering the convergence of sporting uniforms with our everyday lives, the collection blurs the lines between performance and aesthetics for a streamlined response to summer in the city.
Examining the individuality of sportsmen and sportswomen, fundamental silhouettes reveal surface innovation and contrasting details elevated with a technical polish. From elegant portraits of René Lacoste and his tennis partner Suzanne Lenglen in the Roaring Twenties to Peter Sutherland and Philippe Bialobos’ rhythmic documentation of urban bike couriers in the 2000s, a call-and-repeat of sartorial and sports tropes results in hybrid typologies and subtle nods to sporting subcultures. Shorts suits are cut from neoprene piqué jersey, pleated tennis skirts in frosted pastel rubber, and the Lacoste polo reimagined in printed mesh.
A woman and an apron
That dynamic, almost intuitive move, when she pops it over and wraps it around herself, there is something protective and powerful about it. An apron adds structure, posture, a discreet resilience. Reduced and edited to its essence, its cut, more felt than forced. It provokes the idea that a woman tends to look most confident, strong and free in clothes that make her feel her best self.
Fashion is a language, we all know. But first and foremost it is a conversation between a woman, her body and her clothes. The apron is my sensate modern take on tailoring. I want you to play with it.
Albert Kriemler, October 4th, 2021
Summer 2022 evokes a sensual femininity; a visual narrative that engages Stella women to redefine sexiness through feelings of softness and lightness. Pieces evolve the brand’s signature effortlessness, drawing unexpected inspirations from notions of exploration and expansion of consciousness. Shot at Espace Niemeyer in Paris, Stella makes a return to the runway with a show rooted in the powerful notion that mushrooms are the future of fashion.
This collection is a hybrid vision in its relationship to technology, but also in the reinterpretation of classic pieces: Tailleur Bar in sweatshirt fleeces, multi-patterned nighties cast in metal, pants and skirts in compression, draped like roman togas.
The entire collection is produced in france and is part of a responsible proces. The pieces are made from recycled fibers, non-polluting inks, innovative materials or based on natural dye.
A reconsideration of the meaning of LANVIN - its signs and signifiers, its fundamental
definition. A LANVIN that resonates with the 2020s to the same degree that LANVIN
defined the 1920s - a dialogue between past and future. The Spring/Summer 2022 women’s
and men’s LANVIN collection by Bruno Sialelli is a tribute to the house’s identity, its
ideology, remixed for where the world is today.
Inspired by a feeling of space and light and a connection to the natural world, this collection brings the spirit of adventure and upbeat positivity.
An organic colour palette leads the transition from dawn to dusk, taking in warm orange sunrise hues through to brilliant sky blues and midnight blacks. Looks are tonally coordinated to give these glorious summer colours their moment to shine. Earth tones further root the collection in natural colours, while punctuation points of bright red and acid yellow cut through the palette.
"For the Spring-Summer 22 collection, I wanted to build on the tradition of Givenchy's history while also really looking towards the future. To do this, I worked with people I admire across different disciplines who have truly unique perspectives including the artist Josh Smith, whose iconic work is incorporated throughout the collection, and the musician Young Thug, who created the entire score for the show. The collaboration and this collection offer people a remarkably immersive and special experience."
Matthew M. Williams, Creative Director, Givenchy
'This season, as always, I was thinking of the woman behind this Maison: Elsa Schiaparelli,
who gave this house not only its name, but its identity.
The term 'psycho chic' may not have existed in Elsa's time—nor, admittedly, now! —and yet
it’s how I always explain her and her vision to myself: this was a woman fascinated by the
dawning of the technological age, of advances in fabric and engineering, of the avant-garde in film and art. She was a patron of the arts, and an artist herself, but she was also a scientist of a kind, someone who celebrated innovation and progress of all kinds: creative, social, cultural.'
Beautiful young people take their melancholy for a stroll in a masterfully designed
city, Le Havre, destroyed during the Second World War and reconstructed by architect
Auguste Perret, who entrusted Oscar Niemeyer with the library.
This city’s architecture is surprising, as it seems monochromatic and dull
at first glance. However, if you take a closer look, you notice the multitudes of
surfaces and materials used and the complexity of the building façades.
The result is astonishing poetry.
The same can be said for these young folks shot by Sam Rock, whose outfits are
utilitarian only in appearance, in the continuity of the steadfast obsessions of
A.P.C.: workwear, the beauty of masculine/feminine, the elegance of streetwear.
An insensitive soul would only see repetition in this setting. Nonetheless, as
with this collection, a fascinating story is told to eyes that remain open to it.
This season, Chloé introduces Chloé Craft.
We believe luxury fashion has become overly
industrialized, so the Maison is expanding
the number of our products handcrafted by
independent artisans. We are embossing all
of these products with a signature spiral
symbol. Chloé Craft seeks to pioneer new
levels of traceability and transparency in the
industry and establish a deeper connection
between consumers and local producers.
These techniques cannot be mimicked by
machinery, only mastered by the human
Olivier Rousteing: 'This is my most personal presentation to date.
That makes perfect sense, of course. Today, we’re marking my tenth anniversary as Balmain’s
Creative Director. It’s a role that I stepped into when I was just a kid, (oh my god, just 25 years old!),
way back in 2011. And it has been a responsibility that has controlled every moment of my life for
the past decade—but, obviously, I wouldn’t have had it any other way.
We’ve decided to celebrate those ten years of nonstop challenges, creations and changes with a
re-edition of a handful of my favorite looks. I will admit that looking at them, all grouped together,
brings me great joy. When I was designing some of the earliest of these, as an occasionally
overwhelmed twenty-something, I definitely would have laughed if someone would have told me
that someday I’d be showing them as part of my retrospective—but at this moment, I can see that
they are milestones of the journey that brought me to where we are now, in 2021.'
As the sun sets over the beach, a dazzling sky is printed on denim like an image on a film strip.
Here colour, joy and sensuality prevail. Inspired by the sporty vibe and the futuristic spirit of Hans Feurer’s photos, reminiscent of the 90’s, the collection plays with the codes of sexy femininity and athletic apparel.
Beachwear and ready-to-wear intertwine and merge throughout the show. The girls, hoisted onto high-heeled clogs, seem to have come out of the water to get straight back into town. Bikinis and bras serve as a support for the looks.
Technical fabrics and sportswear-inspired iridescent fabrics change color under the intensity of the lighting. Parachute- shaped garments bounce to the rhythm of the steps. Spanning Japanese references and the 80’s early history of graffiti, prints are scrambling. Jeans are adorned with metallic embroideries. The attitude of the Isabel Marant girls, their energy, nonchalance and optimism are contagious.
This Spring-Summer 2022 collection is set to music by Italian artist Gabber Eleganza, who has been working alongside Isabel for the past three seasons. Enjoy what you do!
"Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical". The LOEWE Spring Summer 2022 collection is an experimental statement that marks a point of departure, and opens a new chapter. Provocation, sensuality, movement and amusement break up the LOEWE mould. In devising a vision rooted in the moment, creative director Jonathan Anderson looks at the mannerist, hysterical world of Renaissance painter Pontormo, exploring notions of draping, sculpting and colour by way of torsions, diversions and distortions. The new beginning becomes a renaissance of sorts.
Spring Summer 22 expresses all of Christopher Kane’s nuances: Conservative
yet Playful, Subversive but Sensual, Hard against Soft, Sinister versus Innocent;
and always a balance between Masculine and Feminine.
The collection has a stripped back minimalist appeal, dominated by corrugated
angular lines on reinforced duchess satin, and floating silk organza.
The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct, an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne Studios.
“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
Cecilie Bahnsen´s Spring Summer 2022 collection is a celebration of the love for craftsmanship and the duality of femininity. The most practiced and technically refined collection to date, brought to life through Cecilie´s artistic collaboration - a sound installation composed by Okay Kaya and photo exhibition by Takashi Homma on view in Paris. The collection and artistic collaborations address the duality within us expressed through an exterior detachment and the gentleness in the sensuality of emotions, “To be both,” the ability to not “Be” only what we feel.
For her SS22 Paris Fashion Week presentation, Cecilie Bahnsen collaborates with two artists: Norwegian-born Berlin based singer Kaya Wilkins, who performs under the name Okay Kaya, and Japanese photographer Takashi Homma. Kaya, known for the wisdom and power in the depth of her emotions performs three tracks, filmed in an abandoned airport outside of Copenhagen – one singer alone in the vast space symbolising the aloneness of recent times. Cecilie also invited Takashi Homma to photograph his interpretation of the collection with models on the streets of Tokyo. The three elements – the show film, Kaya’s performance, Takashi’s photography – come together at an exhibition during Paris Fashion Week.
Paris based fashion designers Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter show their SS22 collection
for their aquatic brand BOTTER. Showing an alarming yet optimistic vision of the future.
Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter’s digital show ‘Global Warning’ operates as a message to
the world. Driven by the will to protect the most important ecosystem of our planet, the
ocean, Lisi and Rushemy incorporated Parley Ocean Plastic®, into the fabrics for the collection.
For High Summer 2022, KASSL Editions revisits and revitalises its founding ethos namely, “one coat in seasonal editions” – with a focused and balanced collection steeped in the subtle elegance of urban minimalism.
The refined, confident aesthetic of the outerwear styles – all deconstructions and reworkings of the quintessential KASSL vintage fisherman’s coat – and complementary accessories draws fresh inspiration from the sharpness of the Mod subculture of the mid 1960s, as well as the performance stylings of late 1990s streetwear. This is exemplified in new designs which include a Sailor Coat with an outsized hood and inside-out pockets, and long-and-short versions of a contemporary Pilot coat with voluminous sleeves and buttoned wrist straps.