Paris Couture Week Dazzles with Mega-Carats and Bold Surprises

Between Boucheron’s otherworldly creations blurring the lines between home décor objects and jewellery, and the very first co-signed high jewellery collection by Pomellato and Gucci, the Autumn/Winter 2025 edition of Paris Haute Couture delivered a bedazzling blast of carats, drama and a heady dose of boundary-pushing surprises.

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Gucci X Pomellato

It’s the collaboration no one expected, and the one that stole the show in Paris: Gucci x Pomellato.

The new very first co-signed high jewellery collection, Monili (Italian for “jewels”), showcases bold, sculptural designs that intertwine Pomellato’s signature chains with Gucci’s iconic leather expertise. Drawing on both houses’ equestrian heritage and their shared affinity for 1980s aesthetics, the pieces pay a modern homage to the 1970s jet-setters who once paired Pomellato jewels with Gucci accessories—and who inspired this unexpected alliance.

Boucheron—Impermanence

Forget the traditional line-up of necklaces, rings, bracelets, brooches, and tiaras. At Boucheron, creative director Claire Choisne tore up the rulebook, reimagining what jewellery can be with Impermanence—a poetic meditation on nature’s fleeting beauty, expressed in precious materials. The collection comprises six crystal vases, each transforming into three or four versatile pieces of jewellery that can be worn as headpieces, shoulder brooches, or pendants. The result is both mind-blowing and profoundly moving.

Piaget—Shapes of Extraleganza

Extraleganza, an intoxicating blend of extravagance and elegance which Piaget has made its creative mantra, is steeped in the spirit of 1960s jet-set glamour and expressed across its high jewellery collections and watches. This season, creative director Stéphanie Sivrière explores the shapes that define Piaget’s Extraleganza, straddling the organic and the geometric, yet always ablaze with colour and refined craftsmanship. A striking necklace epitomises the essence of this style with nine coloured hardstones are inlaid using the “pietra dura” technique, crowned with a pear-shaped D-IF diamond of 3.01 carats.

Chopard—Insofu

Unearthed in Zambia’s Kagem mine, the 6,226-carat rough emerald known as Insofu, meaning “elephant” in the Bemba language, immediately captured the imagination of Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, Caroline Scheufele. Drawing on the glamour of the Jazz Age immortalised by F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, Scheufele transformed emeralds cut from this colossal gem into chokers, sautoirs, and bracelets, each oozing with glamour and gleaming with that mesmerising green light which enchanted the fictional Gatsby and is destined to captivate jewellery lovers too.

Chaumet—Jewels by Nature

Chaumet’s founder, Marie-Étienne Nitot, famously described himself as a “joaillier naturaliste,” which reflected his deep fascination with flora and the botanical passions of Empress Joséphine—the maison’s very first “VIC.” With its new collection Jewels by Nature, Chaumet ushers in a new chapter of commitment to protecting nature, its eternal muse. Bees, nature’s most delicate yet vital pollinators, appear as a recurring motif throughout this bejewelled ode, symbolising both nature’s beauty and fragility and drawing awareness on the urgent need for preservation.

Messika—Terres D’Instinct

Known for shaking up the diamond world and becoming the go-to jeweller for Beyoncé and Rihanna, Valérie Messika celebrates 20 years in business with Terres d’Instinct, which for the first time introduces juicy, sizeable coloured gemstones: sapphires, rubies, emeralds, spinels and garnets, all in her signature rock-and-roll style. Those in search of show-stopping diamonds will be bedazzled by the Kalahara necklace, centred on a spectacular 34.92-carat yellow diamond.

De Beers—Essence of Nature

With the second chapter of its high jewellery collection Essence of Nature, De Beers doubles down on rough, uncut diamonds in every hue, even those once shunned by the diamond world. It’s a seismic shift and a bold declaration of love for nature with all its irresistibly beautiful imperfections. The raw beauty of these rough gems takes centre stage in 42 elegant, one-of-a-kind creations inspired by four iconic trees from De Beers’ diamond-producing regions: Namibia’s sculptural Camelthorn, Botswana’s life-giving Baobab, South Africa’s romantic Jacaranda, and Canada’s fiery Maple.

Buccellati—Three exceptional bejewelled evening bags

In the 1920s, Mario Buccellati crafted the most refined evening bags, blending velvet and silk with ornate, gem-studded clasps that perfectly complemented the gowns of elegant ladies attending La Scala theatre in Milan. A century later, Buccellati revives this legacy with three new embroidered silk and velvet creations designed to elevate not only evening outfits but also bring a touch of glamour to a paired down denim look.

Sahag Arslanian—Debut collection

Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian unveils his first namesake high jewellery collection in Paris, a poetic tribute to the rare beauty of diamonds. Inspired by the celestial world, it features transformable creations like the Sun Rays necklace, aglow with an 8.88-carat fancy yellow diamond, and whimsical trompe-l’œil details that signal Arslanian’s intent to leave an indelible mark in the jewellery world not only with stunning gems but also through artistry and craft.