London Fashion Week is officially back in its physical form after an 18 month hiatus and the excitement is real. This means plenty of IRL catwalk shows and presentation for designers’ SS22 collections, including Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, RIXO, Bora Aksu, Simone Rocha, Erdem and more.
Some designs are also showing their new designs on the digital space, so I’ll be sharing the best ones with you here too. In the meantime, here’s a snapshot of what’s happened so far at London Fashion Week, which runs from Friday 17th to Tuesday 21st September.
Erdem (main picture)
Erdem’s SS22 collection is a love letter to London’s idiosyncratic soul, told in a dance between two extraordinary and timeless women: Edith Sitwell and Ottoline Morrell. Together, they encapsulate the city’s fervent spirit which, for me, is an endless inspiration. Sitwell and Morrell were enigmatic characters who lived on the peripheries between myth and reality. The mood is one of wistful glamour and elegant insouciance, reflecting the personalities of our protagonists. An earthy purity of textiles – waxed cottons, raw and crushed linens – are elevated with cinched tailoring and a variety of embellishments. Hand-stitched crystal beads bring opulence to a raw linen dress and pencil skirt. A crushed linen dress, neatly gathered at the waist and neckline, is softened with a re-embroidered lace motif.
Richard Malone and Mulberry
In the V&A, amidst Renaissance treasures the Raphael Cartoons, Richard Malone unveils his latest collection. The juxtaposition of the old and the new sets the scene for a collection that explores the tension between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ taste and the comfort we find in creativity. In it Malone makes a pertinent statement about the subjectivity of art and the emotion each viewer, or wearer, brings to something. We project our own meanings, stories and histories.
This collection also marks the launch of a new limited-edition collaboration with British luxury brand Mulberry, the partnership is the latest Mulberry Editions collection to launch during the brand’s 50th anniversary year.
Melding his own distinct design language with Mulberry’s heritage, Malone reinterprets the brand’s Bayswater and Darley bags, these are complemented by a line-up of small accessories.
After more than a year on standby, the dancers of the Royal Opera House perform Kenneth MacMillan’s Romeo and Juliet in front of a live audience, wearing SS22 Halpern. The collection highlights the extraordinary discipline and determination demonstrated by the ballet company during the lockdown period, and their joy at returning to performing.
More is more when it comes to Alice Temperley’s SS22 collection. Myriad elements inspire the collection: the 1970s pattern and decoration movement, the glamour of Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile collages with girlish cross-stitch motifs; hothouse palms cross with Moroccan mosaics.
The climate activist and fashion designer re-imagined looks from the summer 98 collection for this SS22 drop, recycling and re-using fabrics.
Royal Salute x Richard Quinn whisky collab
‘Being able to spark creatively with Royal Salute has been an amazing experience. Witnessing craftsmanship and innovation within different expertise has always fascinated me, so exploring the world of expertly blended and high-aged whisky for the first time was such a powerful source of inspiration. The collaboration has been a real creative process and I’m thrilled that the expression that resulted from this great partnership encapsulates both of our passions in a truly modern way. I love the thought that my designs for Royal Salute will be collected and treasured for years to come by whisky and fashion lovers around the world,’ says Richard Quinn.
Scroll down for some of our favourite London Fashion Week SS22 looks.
For SS22 16Arlington have embraced the spirit of dressing up. Inspired by Death Becomes Her, this is a modern interpretation of gothic and dark elegance.
Evoking the 90s and club scene references - we're particularly enamoured with the leather crop top and crystal mesh combo - proportions are played with and clothes are slashed to the navel and at the hemline to reveal flashes of skin.
The subtle play between a more-is-more (the signature feather detailing) and minimal (chic crystal work) keep things elegant. The colour palette is muted, there are browns, greys and pinks with pops of vibrant green. These are clothes for people who enjoy dressing up and feeling good. And we’re certainly up for that.
For SS22, Tiger of Sweden presented their collection against the backdrop of a choreographed dance, the collection entitled ‘Performance’ is the ‘translation of dialogue between performance and movement – a visual exploration of how the body moves, connecting both energy and expression’
Reimagining performance-wear, the collection is filled with movement and fluidity reflected in the dance. Skirts are bias cut with pleating, shirts have dropped and slightly exaggerated sleeves and tailoring is as ever the highlight of the show and what we’ve come to know - and love - Tiger of Sweden for.
In Richard Quinn’s SS22 collection, an existing fascination with volume and shape is reconfigured for the new season. Taking a fresh perspective on glamour, the collection showcases modern people with a purpose.
A focus on technical fabrics lends an edge to the collection; trousers are stretched and pulled to create a sense of tension and unease. Block colour combinations strike a balance between acidic brightness and softer tones, whilst the silhouettes are shaped to be angular and futuristic.
Photos by @EvanPeck
London’s iconic Roundhouse sets the stage for COS Autumn Winter 2021 having previously inspired artists, filmmakers, and avant-garde productions, while providing endless possibilities to young creative communities. Projecting colour, light and movement onto a blank canvas within this unique venue, the show unifies the audience in a physical and digital space, emotively drawing the curtains open to an evolved direction for the brand.
Specific components can instantly be recognised as COS; fabrications, cuts, colours - fundamental principles. These components emphasise an overarching precedence, of style over fashion.
Looking to reinvigorate a classic wardrobe, the freedom to push the boundaries of traditional design is paralleled by the fluidity of movement through draped, layered styles and oversized fits. Tailored details are elevated, and construction refined meeting at a point between simplicity and intricacy, elegance and functionality. A retro influence is personified through enlarged collars and rounded sleeves in a mulberry silk dress, while 1990s minimalism inspires slimmer proportions and tailoring in the form of a waist coat and relaxed trousers. Pleats animate skirts, while suiting adds a soft sense of structure. Classic coats are proposed in bright cobalt blue or crafted in leather, transforming everyday pieces.
Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for his eponymous brand is an uncompromising exploration of texture, material, and juxtapositions in volume. Artisanal art deco themes adorn light and airy silhouettes. Heavy embellishments are accomplished in delicate way with consequential hardware employed in accessories and straps and resin ring adornments. The notion and execution of extreme juxtapositions is expressed in high shine pink patent versus soft napa leather dresses; billowing architectural skirts with form fitting tops; voluminous trousers in Japanese denim paired with a garment fully factored in crinoline mesh.
When freedom becomes contained the need for movement rises to heights of new imagining. The focus on ‘motion’ builds an atmosphere of change and through this, the narratives of women and placement in society have been explored as the basis of the ROKSANDA Spring Summer 2022 collection.
This season sees a navigation of the intention to capture a kinetic vibrancy that surrounds the process of change.
The physicality of structures without limits has been solidified through the return for the 4th collection of ROKSANDA showcasing at the landmark institution of the Serpentine Pavilion. This season’s creation has been designed by Sumayya Vally, the youngest architect to be commissioned by Kensington’s Serpentine.
Spring Summer 2022 was conceived whilst the UK was still in lockdown. EDELINE LEE states: “I was dreaming about our collective re-emergence into society - all of our repressed desires to dress up and get out and see new things, to fly up into the sky and blast ourselves all the way to the moon. I’d been exploring the possibilities of digital art for the past couple of seasons, and alsowanted it to feel absurd, surreal, joyful, exuberant, abundant, diverse - all the colours of the rainbow. It felt wrong to order new fabric, so I decided to use up all of the leftover fabrics in the studio - we ended up with 53 colours in the collection.”
For SS22, Sophie Mechaly offers us a return to the core values of the brand; from Mechaly's childhood wardrobe to the spirit of the brand's signature uniform style. Signature maxi smocked dresses are transformed into jumpsuits, floral prints are tinted in two colours, with iconic booties enhanced with platforms.
“This season I was really inspired to shift gears into the future and present a collection into what women might want to wear after what feels like a lifetime spent indoors. I wanted to show a modern approach to occasion dressing - strong, feminine styles but in soft and relaxed silhouettes. This collection is a love letter to the Self-Portrait woman - one who is ready to face the world, feel like herself and have fun again.”
Han Chong, Self-Portrait Founder and Creative Director
'An ode to the European getaway. Rose-tinted and rooted in elegance.
Sunlit mornings, long languid afternoons spent behind closed doors.
The gentleman abroad.
The idea of being somewhere else – and perhaps someone else – inspires
a shift in attitude, a playfulness, a quiet confidence.
Soft, summer tailoring is simple at first glance, with hidden complexities;
textured linens, pockets and pleats. True to our DNA it’s a collection of contrasts.
Fluid, silk slips appear mirage-like, grounded with masculine accessories.
Romantic sorbet shades are interrupted with jolts of metallics, ice blue and burnt orange.'
After twelve successful seasons selling luxury Parisian handbags and footwear, Elleme launch their second Ready-to-Wear collection as part of Spring Summer 22.
Elleme presents 30 looks including cropped structured blazers, co-ord sets, asymmetric bodysuits, cold shoulder dresses, and summer knits. The collection consists of fluid fabrics such as viscose, silk, printed satin, cotton poplin and denim that also tie into the brands bag and shoe collection for the season. Inspired by the Costal scenery the colour pallet embraces soft warm tones, with pops of uplifting colours and prints throughout such as soft peach and limoncello.
For Spring Summer 2022 Emilia Wickstead imagines a romance that may or may not have happened.
Seduction, mystery, beauty. These are the common threads of this season’s collection.
Through the haze, KNWLS’ SS22 woman emerges. A skirt’s corkscrew tendrils flick about her like petrol-fed flames. A leather bomber jacket’s ribbing snatches the waist, offsetting a weighty, domed shoulder to cut an imposing form; the cracked white leather of her bag, a jag-toed heel, and a dipped-down cowgirl hat echo the sunbaked earth she treads.
The trauma and pain of the pandemic provided an opportunity for reflection - on the condition of our lives prior to the seismic shift in our world, a time when we felt we were whole - while also offering a mirror to our personal and societal fragilities as we witnessed our well weathered securities begin to fall apart.
Simultaneously it provided opportunity for rebirth, through addressing the scars of the past and focusing on healing and opportunities for hope as we rebuilt our lives in a world forever changed.
For Palmer/Harding's pre-spring 22 and spring 22 collection we draw inspiration through this journey of disassembly of unity, the process of self examination, the pain of adjusting to new norms and the joy of recovery and discovery as we rebuild a world better suited to our true desires, one that provides endless opportunity for love, happiness and beauty.
For Spring-Summer 2022, David Koma’s study of swimming costumes takes its point of departure in the athleticism core to that duality. Captured in film at the London Aquatics Centre designed by Zaha Hadid, the collection enters into a dialogue between the architect’s characteristic lines and the structural properties of the aquatic wardrobe.
For SS22 Mark Fast takes us back to the 90s with a collection that pays homage to the underground scene in all its chaotic magnificence. Fast’s signature bold palette and neon style is this season juxtaposed with a softer heart in the form of pastels. These garments are then exaggerated in a uniquely Mark Fast style with the interlocked chains and a new MF monogram.
For his Spring Summer 2022 Collection — O Sol Nascente (The Rising Sun) — EUDON CHOI transports us to Rio de Janeiro, where the colourful favelas, vibrant street markets and effervescent carnivals form the rich setting for this laid-back luxe high summer offering. As a continuation from Resort, the Spring Summer 22 collection continues its journey celebrating our sense of communities and joy for life.
For SS22, Bora Aksu presents a collection inspired by ‘levend kunstwerk’, Dutch socialite and inimitable muse Mathilde Willink. Willink was at the heart of a hedonistic revival in the Netherlands: her extravagant ‘un-Dutch’ character and marriage to painter Carel Willink dominated the media for two decades. Bora Aksu takes the soul of Mathilde and infuses it into his latest collection, a celebration of exuberance and a life lived to the fullest.