Following on from New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week kicked things off in style with a church-turned-runway for Bora Aksu’s show. This week, designers such as Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Roksanda and Erdem will be showcasing their AW22 collections, and we’ll be sharing the very best looks with you.
Here’s everything that’s happened so far.
Roksanda AW22 (main picture)
The iconic Tate Britain was the setting for Roksanda’s AW22 show, and what a setting it was. Collaborating with artist Eva Rothschild, the designer created a bold and colourful backdrop that perfectly echoed the collection.
Think exaggerated gowns of padded amorphous and unusual patchworking in trademark colour-blocking, married together in silk taffetas, silk satins, cottons and sand- washed silks to bring new volume and tactility and defying pre-conceived notions of construction.
Molly Goddard AW22
Nensi Dojaka AW22
Nensi Dojaka showcases her AW22 collection as a gradient of fabrications, colours, and cuts: heavy to sheer, dark to light, covered to exposed.
Dusky tones of powder pink and hot fuchsia, a palette of burnt caramel, rust and black adorn lingerie-inspired pieces – the designer’s iconic bralette returns – and for the first time, outerwear in the form of puffer and tailored jackets.
Bora Aksu AW22
Bora Aksu set the tone for London Fashion Week with a voyage to the 14th Century, with designs evoking the zeitgeist of renaissance Europe. Inspired by poet Christine de Pizan, who was part of King Charles VI of France’s court, he created silhouettes inspired by the customs and costume of the early Renaissance, giving them a modern twist thanks to his signature androgynous tailoring, bold structural pieces and romantic tulle gowns.
Inspired by the 1930s, Rixo’s ‘The Golden Age’ collection celebrates the opulence and splendour depicted on the Hollywood movie screens at the time. Co-founder and designer Orlagh told me she wanted to create dresses that you could celebrate in, that elevate your day-to-day look.
‘The glitter is my favourite part of the collection. It’s got a real bohemian feel thanks to the feather, with a touch of subtle sparkle. It’s not overbearing, it’s that piece you want to wear when you’re back out, socialising,’ she said.
Glitter, brocades and rich prints make the collection one of Rixo’s most lavish yet understated yet. At the heart of it all is the brand’s focus on sustainability.
‘We have a lot more eco fabrics in this collection, and we tried to keep the production local as much as possible. We’ve also tried to be more strategic this year and not buy too much of anything. I think that overconsumption often causes the bigger landfill. I also try and stay off Instagram to avoid fads, I take all my inspiration from places like books, galleries and wallpaper,’ says Orlagh.
Scroll down for some of our favourite London Fashion Week AW22 looks.
Shoes in partnership with Dear Frances.
For February Fashion Week, RTW label Roksanda has partnered with Clearpay, LFW’s Principal Sponsor, to bring digitisation, accessibility and innovation to fashion lovers everywhere. Together, the duo has exclusively created the demi couture finale look from Roksanda’s forthcoming show in the form of an NFT. The idea originated from Clearpay, who worked collaboratively with Roksanda and the Institute of Digital Fashion to bring the project to life as a first foray for both Clearpay and Roksanda to enter the metaverse.
This collection - a body of work which was embarked upon by both of 16Arlington’s beloved founders, seen through to completion by only one - is a tribute to the peerless style and lasting legacy of Federica “Kikka” Cavenati.
Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati were inseparable in life, and remain so beyond the physical partition of death. She is everywhere in this work: her playful wit lives in turbo-charged monster-marabou coats, waistcoats and bucket hats; her boundless laughter in the wet-look feather scarves slung across smoked topaz sequins. Many of this season’s feathers were unearthed from 16Arlington’s archive - treated with dye by Kikka herself, years ago.
For AW22, Yuhan Wang is challenging the idea of perfection and instead looks to shine a light on the
dangers that can come with the incessant need to keep up appearances and always look flawless.
Yuhan wants to celebrate the beauty of imperfection in juxtaposition to the increasing amount of women
opting to have surgical and non-surgical face alterations
Richard Quinn’s Autumn Winter 2022 collection is a love letter to silhouette and craft.
Delving into couture sensibilities, the collection acts as an exploration of intricate fabrications and elevated shapes. Structured volumes create a fashion armour, engulfing the figure in beauty and colour.
Feathered embroideries cocoon and shield the body, contoured with precision, ready to take flight.
Returning for a second season at London Fashion Week, Designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa of Noon By Noor unveiled their Fall 2022 Collection in presentation format today at London's Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA). “We brought the collection to life with plays of materials and textures and created interesting contrasts using colours, fabrics, and silhouettes – a clash of clichés,” said Designer Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa.
S.S. Daley shifts his study of class structures to the dissolution of the stately home. It’s about obligation and desire: breaking the constrictions of a codified world and the repressions of those trapped within its privileges. Throughout, S.S. Daley expands his design world, particularly in tailoring, as well as introducing his first womenswear pieces. Shoes by Malone Souliers Men
For AW22 Mark Fast targets the energetic souls that find their spirits aflame through the experimental nightlife lights. Starting from neutral tones that are subsequently spun around the wheel of colour, Fast’s latest rendition of his signature street style is a tribute to the subgroups of culture that reclaim the night from stifling forces. This season embodies striking colours and shapes that are illuminated through couture dresses, large puffers and a mélange of experimental textures.