Your first look at the coolest AW21 collections

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  • London Fashion Week has officially transcended the seasons, with designers stepping off schedule to present their collections with a mix of digital and physical shows.

    But that doesn’t mean designers let it dampen their creative spirit, au contraire. The likes of Burberry, Molly Goddard, Bora Aksu and 16ARLINGTON have pulled it out of the bag for their dazzling aw21 collections…

    Burberry

    Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer, said of his collection, ‘Throughout my life, my mother has been this incredible force of nature. As a single parent, she raised me and my eight sisters with unfaltering purpose and pride. So, naturally, I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to challenge expectations and I have always been in such awe of their determination. They are warriors.’

    ‘I wanted this collection to feel truly emblematic of the power of feminine energy: a modern armour that captures its characteristic fierce aura. There’s an underlying attitude to the collection that’s very British; of being unique, eccentric and totally authentic in how you express yourself. This presentation is a love letter to women and a celebration of their incomparable strength.’

    The result? An Autumn/Winter 2021 womenswear presentation re-interpreting modern femininity by shedding archetypes and readdressing preconceptions. At its core, the collection carries a sense of unflinching pride and conviction. With a sense of fluidity, looks reinvent tradition, twist classicism and encourage freedom of expression.

    ERDEM

    For Autumn/Winter 21, ERDEM is at the ballet: ‘The spirit of the collection comes from Margot Fonteyn in the period of her career when she began dancing with Rudolf Nureyev. In 1961 when they first met, Fonteyn was 42 and Nureyev was 23. She was ready to retire, but such was the alchemy of their performance that she danced on for nearly two decades. Their synergy transcended taboo and shattered staid views about the age of a female dancer and the arc of her career. Photographs from this era show Fonteyn off duty, backstage and in rehearsal, powerful with poise even in repose.’

    BORA AKSU

    Bora Aksu kicked off LFW in style, transporting us to Revolutionary France amid the tumultuous landscape of upheaval, war and isolation presenting a collection inspired by peerless life and achievements of mathematician and physicist Sophie Germain (pictured above). The same world that inspired the cries of “Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité ou la Mort” also allowed the blossoming of one of the modern era’s most sublime and often overlooked thinkers.

    The designer said, ‘Despite the 200 years between us, I felt an immediate kinship with Sophie. The isolation and uncertainty of the last year has caused me to search for new sources of hope and creativity. Sophie’s own isolation allowed her to find the ideas that would drive her for the rest of her life. In that way she has shown me that even in the bleakest of times, there is always hope, if one choose to seek it.’

    Roksanda

    Honouring the inimitable talents of the celebrated Vanessa Redgrave, Joely Richardson and Daisy Bevan, the Autumn Winter 2021 short film brings these themes of family and the human touch to life in a highly intimate, poetic and moving portrayal following 3 generations of incredible women. Set against the backdrop of their countryside home during lockdown, we witness their experiences captured honestly and lovingly over the course of one day in February. Shot via iPhone in creative collaboration between Roksanda, the family and female director and photographer, Linda Brownlee, a series of tender and fleeting moments are exposed through a uniquely feminine lens.

    Molly Goddard

    Always trust Molly Goddard to created instant mood-boosting, joyful dresses. Bright layers of tulle and bows, knits in neon colours and tartan galore made us excited for autumn dressing.

    16ARLINGTON

    Creative duo Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati were inspired by the work of artist Hubert Durprat this season, who is known for his ‘Caddis’ collection, in which Caddisfly larvae are captured furnishing protective cocoons from gold leaf, opals, coral and diamonds.

    The AW21 collection explored this nothing with 16Arlington’s signature ostrich feathers captured under delicate netting in the form of belted overcoats and strapless, cinched evening dresses, like a butterfly in a bell jar. Crystals, brocades and fiery tones of red and orange further illustrated this.

    Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

    Preen also presented its collection via a short film this season, inspired by the maddening effect of lockdown. The label’s signature floral designs were set against a backdrop of an isolated country home.

    Scroll down for some of our favourite looks from all the other presentations too.

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