Hot off the heels of the first ‘normal’ London Fashion Week since the pandemic began, Milan Fashion Week started off with a bang with the Alberta Ferreti, Jil Sander and Roberto Cavalli shows, which showcased the designers’ Spring collections on the likes of Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Irina Shayk.
Here’s everything you’ve missed so far, and keep scrolling for all our favourite looks, straight off the runway.
VERSACE by FENDI – FENDI by VERSACE
‘A first in the history of fashion: two designers having a true creative dialogue that stems from respect and friendship. It led to us swapping roles to create these two collections,’ said Donatella Versace, Chief Creative Officer Versace.
‘Friends, idols, mentors… It’s the beauty of togetherness,’ added Kim Jones, Artistic Director Fendi Couture and Womenswear.
Inspired by the mid-to-late nineties period of the storied house, VERSACE BY FENDI explores an idea of duality, most pointedly seen in a melding of the Fendi Monogram with the Versace Greek Key motif. Here, garments metamorphose, many revealed to be reversible with hidden codes and the exquisite craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier on display, such as in chainmail made leather. Here a multigenerational approach is embraced throughout.
FENDI BY VERSACE takes a more punk rock stance with Donatella Versace declaring contamination and disruption to be key. Versace safety pins proliferate, puncturing Fendi signs and symbols. Chain mail is married with lace and crystal-encrusted F’s in an interpretation of the Monogram. While silk faille mimics denim and shearlings are shaved, making the world of Fendi that little bit more youthfully rebellious.
Jil Sander’s SS22 collection is as far away from perfection as can be, in the best possible way. We are plural, nocturnal, and luminous; feminine, masculine, vulnerable and strong ; and we shouldn’t take ourselves too seriously,’ state Lucie and Luke Meier with this season’s eclectic collection. Think subtle yet powerful suiting, strong silhouettes and textural fabrics, pastel hues mixed in with bolder shades.
For SS22, Max Mara imagines a writer; a smart, sulky, Beat Generation intellectuelle tapping out the story of a long hot summer on an old school typewriter. It’s a sophisticated account of romance, intrigue, moral conundrum and elegant ennui, played out against a background of smart villas, secluded beaches, fast cars, boats, chic restaurants and casinos.
Think of what Cécile, heroine of Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse would wear today: ‘workwear classics; the fisherman’s smock, the labourer’s jacket, the mechanic’s overalls and carpenter pants are reimagined with prêt-à-porter finesse. In crisp gabardine, canvas, impeccable poplin and boxfresh denim, they feature precise contrast top stitching. Tank tops and boyish sandals with chunky crêpe soles complete the bad girl look; chiffon embroidered with wispy feathers is a diaphanous counterpoint.’
For the Spring Summer 2022 season ETRO enters a new phase, in the spirit of an exciting optimism and a vibrant strength. Drawing a rainbow of fascinating suggestions, Creative Director Veronica Etro portrays a young generation of enthusiastic dreamers embracing lightness, positivity and celebrating life.
A joyful mysticism and spiritual awakening typical of the 70s inspires the overall mood, however the look is anchored to reminiscences of 90s’ slickness. ETRO invites you to let the sunshine in and go with the flow, embarking on a bright journey infused with freedom, mindfulness and joyous escapism.
Scroll down to see more of the beautiful looks to come out of the Milan Fashion Week SS21 shows.
The foulard is a fundamental component of Versace’s heritage and character. It’s acted as a canvas for our iconic prints and is worn in multiple ways from knotted tops to headscarves to bag accessories, it’s a way of adding Versace attitude to any look. The foulard has been with us since the very beginning of the brand, but this season turns everything on its head, it is no longer fluid or dreamy, the scarf is provocative, sexy, wound tight. - Donatella Versace.
By the time of the millennium, art movies have infiltrated the art world. This is how PHILIPP PLEIN is going to show the new collection. STEVEN KLEIN is the master of creating the most theatrical movie image artworks. His work and his experiences are extending beyond the screen. ‘NIGHT GAMES’ is an art piece which rewrites the boundaries of fashion, art, and film. This is not the only surprise for this season. An international star joins Philipp Plein and Steven Klein in this revolutionary project: MEGAN FOX. She rejects conformity and cultivates her own unique way of being sexy and dominate at the same time. Let your fantasy guide you.
nspired by a new generation and their preoccupation with remixing archetypal wardrobe pieces to give them a new attitude, Artistic Director Karl Templer devises a PORTS 1961 collection that celebrates confidence, empowerment, and strength. A collection that connects with a metropolitan life lived at full speed, and dressed accordingly - putting resoluteness and focus before frivolity, while still appreciating and valuing more whimsical touches. Bold pragmatism met with flourishes that speak to creativity and emotion.
A return to an intimate, cosy dimension: clothes shown close to the audience,
so that one can almost reach out and touch. After more than twenty years,
Giorgio Armani comes back at presenting the collection at Via Borgonuovo
21, in the historic theatre that has been the backdrop for some memorable
fashion shows. The collection is a comeback, too: a métissage of exquisitely
Armanian tropes mixed with nomadic scents, decorations and colours that
seem to have been gathered during a journey or a trip to be reinterpreted
with an urban feel. The counterpoint of precision and freedom is achieved
with remarkable lightness, of both materials and hues.
Back when Emilio Pucci, the visionary founder of the house, devised a vision of dressing for the modern woman constantly on the go, joyously hopping on jets and visiting exotic locations, beachwear was a whole mindset, a way of getting oneself together. Going to the beach in elegant resort destinations definitely meant dressing up, with the ease required by the en plein air activity and the athleticism of the body on show. Emilio Pucci was at the forefront of such a liberation movement: an athlete himself, he loved to free the body and allow life to glide smoothly while creating pieces that retained a remarkable sense of sophistication.
The Spring/Summer 22 collection, conceived by the design team that creates the present of Emilio Pucci in dialogue with its essence and founding values, brings that same ease and the same energetic sensuality, as well as the curiosity for the wide world out there, to the city. The action is charged with a feel of immediacy, enabled by a combination of easy pieces that, as ever for Pucci, suggest a certain playfulness, the freedom to combine things following one’s instinct and will.
A collection about the act of getting dressed to be together. An action of trying on, fitting in
and fitting out that connects the audience and the show, the observers and the observed.
Everything and everyone as one.
The musical legacy and studies of John Cage, one of the leading American figures of the post-war avant-garde, serve as the inspiration for the Sportmax Spring-Summer 2022 collection. An artist, producer, composer and music theorist, Cage’s career culminated with his most celebrated composition 4’33’’, which was performed in absence of deliberate sound. It is with this masterpiece that the new Sportmax collection takes flight.
Bally's Spring/Summer 2022 collection Art of Utility reimagines sartorial sportswear with freedom of movement and ease for the post-pandemic future.
This tailored, modern day uniform compels us to select fewer pieces of higher quality worn in intuitive and natural ways, creating a powerful and intimate connection between an article of clothing and its wearer.
“Close to Positano, there are age-old myths of mermaids and underwater garden worlds. These
fables from Southern Italy have influenced my imagination over the years — the Neapolitan
sea is, no doubt, a place of endless inspiration. With this collection, I’m letting you dive into the
dream with me—and splicing it with a high fashion fantasy”, says Giuliano Calza, Creative
Director of GCDS.
Colville’s S/S 22 collection is a celebration of the values on which the label was built: collaboration, upcycling, design excellence. New silhouettes and clever, specially-developed techniques are united by a sense of elegant femininity. Here, great design is defined not by anything tricky, elaborate or restrictive, but by a desire to be free, a drive for unconformity and joyful release.
Under the symbol of an eagle that
flies high and knows no
boundaries, for forty years,
Emporio Armani has been
expressing the joys of fashion free
from imposed rules, that never-
theless maintains the harmony of
shapes, balance, and the sense of
nonchalant elegance that are the
essence of Armani style. The sig-
nature is distinctive. It expresses
a strong identity, in which the
dialogue between the male and
female worlds are constant,
despite their mutual differences.
The quest for lightness, the fluid-
ity of the cuts and the softness of
the colours are exactly the same.
As is the spirit that always gazes
beyond borders, allowing itself
to be influenced by the signs and
traces of distant cultures, to place
them in context in a wardrobe
that has an urban feel. This sea-
son, the journey begins in an im-
aginary desert, crossing its oasis
and ending in vibrant colourways.
Everything blends together,
For Spring/Summer 2022, MM6 Maison Margiela invites you to La Belle Aurore, a beloved Milanese rendezvous, to turn to your neighbour and clink glasses; to eat, drink and be merry. Extroverted and eclectic, consider this collection a heightened celebration of life’s return to our cities’ bars, restaurants and streets; of the surreal, cinematic experience of seeing faces from different walks of life once again come together in the same place.
For Spring/Summer 2022, the Milan-based label La DoubleJ is delighted to present its most expansive and uplifting collection to date, inspired by epic Italian Summers and the best of Made in Italy magic. Perpetually on the hunt for venerable behind-the-scenes artisans, this collection has two new collaborations at its heart: an exclusive capsule with the iconic Milanese stylist and LDJ alumn, Viviana Volpicella, and the official launch of DoubleJ’s first full footwear line in partnership with the historic Italian luxury shoewear manufacturers, Roveda.