As a fragrance-obsessed beauty editor, I’m always open to new ideas and innovations when it comes to perfumery. Yet, if you asked to take a look at my 2025 bingo card, being presented with a fragrance created by AI, most definitely wouldn’t have made an appearance. Yes, AI can summarise texts and emails for me in the blink of an eye or offer advice on things I’d never voice to even my closest friends. It can even create those cute Barbie-inspired dolls we were all obsessed with a few months back, but input and advise on the notes behind something as precise as a fragrance? That seemed a step too far.
Except that’s exactly what Oriflame set out to do when they created their latest collection of fragrances, Scope, earlier this year. “The first idea for this project came from a simple observation: we noticed the growing number of our friends and colleagues (especially among Gen Z and younger Millennials) using Chat GPT as adviser/career mentor/dating coach. So, we wondered, do young perfumers also use AI so casually, as a part of their daily work routine?” said Anna Pavlenko, Global Brand Manager & Fragrance Development at Oriflame Cosmetics, when I asked her about the project. “Apparently, that wasn’t the case just yet [so] we briefed our partners from three prominent fragrance houses to develop scent directions where perfumers would use AI as a creativity-boost, a co-pilot.”
So, how does AI create a fragrance?
“We liked the idea [of using AI] for crafting unique mood-boosting accords with proven effect, using consumer sentiments,” Anna continued, “[So], to make this happen, AI analysed plenty of data, searching for patterns in how people describe certain scents and what mood- or feeling-related adjectives they use to do so. Perfumers then used the results to design fine fragrance accords.”
Yet, it wasn’t just any fragrances that Oriflame asked the perfumers and AI to co-create, “We asked them to translate into the language of scent three quite complex feelings,” Anna told me, “Nostalgia or sweet longing for the safe days of childhood; the feeling of Awe of the beauty of our Planet; and the Mystery of the great Cosmic Unknown.”
Considering these are ideas even I struggle to wrap my head around, let alone represent in perfume form, I was intrigued to see how AI would interpret them and the effect this would have on the scents. Having now had my hands on them for a few weeks, I’m ready to share my thoughts…
Shop Oriflame’s Scope Fragrances
1. Oriflame Scope Time Loop Eau de Toilette
The first of the three fragrances, Time Loop, was created to take you on a journey through joyful memories. To do this, it combines notes of creamy vanilla and juicy pear with calming lavender and a powdery musk base.
When I first smelled this scent, it smelled strongly of vanilla, which is heavy and sweet and almost envelops you as you spritz the scent. On a second approach, however, the juicy pear and citrus notes came in, turning the fragrance into something much lighter. It’s this scent journey that I most love about Time Loop as, much like we come back to different memories at different points in our lives, I can see myself taking different things from this scent each time I spray it.
2. Oriflame Scope Earth Wonder Eau de Toilette
Earth Wonder was created as a tribute to Earth’s beauty, and considering AI has never set foot on Earth in a literal sense, I was intrigued to see what it would make of it. Of the three fragrances in the range, this is the one that surprised me the most, as rather than smelling traditionally earthy and woody, Earth Wonder is a zesty, fruity fragrance. It’s vibrant and uplifting, thanks to notes of bergamot and mandarin while soft florals bring a lightness to the scent that, in my opinion, makes it perfect for wearing throughout spring and summer.
3. Oriflame Scope Across Space Eau de Toilette
Lastly, we have Across Space, a fragrance designed to stimulate our minds and embody our quest for the unknown. On reading the concept, I had no idea how this was going to be reflected in scent form. The result, however, was even more unexpected—opening strongly with pink pepper, it then transformed into a fragrant rose scent combined with a resinous amber base.
As a perfume, this was again one that required a few spritzes to wrap my head around, and I’ll be honest, I’m still not sure how I feel about a fragrance created by AI. But considering the feelings it’s designed to evoke, I’d say it’s done its job well as I find myself drawn to this perfume even if I don’t quite understand it...
