The fashion industry’s long-standing game of musical chairs strikes again. Rachel Scott, the founder of Diotima, was yesterday announced as the new creative director of Proenza Schouler. The American label is considered one of the most directional brands to show at New York Fashion Week - its outgoing creative-director duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, have just departed to helm the envelope-pushing leather-goods label Loewe - so it makes sense that it’s chosen Scott, a creative who’s always put craft at the centre of her design language.
It’s also significant, of course, because she’s a woman. As the industry’s churn of creative directors has reached something of a fever pitch this year, it’s been hard to ignore the fact that the keys to fashion’s most prestigious ateliers have been handed to men. Jonathan Anderson is the first person to ever lead the creative vision of both womenswear and menswear at Dior. Matthieu Blazy, meanwhile, is about to make his debut as artistic director of Chanel - and has already created quite a stir by dropping breadcrumbs as to his new vision at the Venice Film Festival (see Ayo Edebiri, whose pearl white asymmetric suit was a 10).
There are notable exceptions (Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy, for example, as well as Meryll Rogge, who’s just taken the reins at Marni), but, largely, the world of women’s fashion, ironically, is dominated by men.
Scott isn’t just an inspired choice but the right one for a brand like Proenza Schouler. In a statement released yesterday, Proenza Schouler’s CEO, Shira Suveyke Snyder, said: “As one of the most celebrated design talents of today, Rachel brings a fresh and female perspective to a brand built on the spirit of the modern American woman. Her profound understanding of Proenza Schouler’s brand codes, paired with her exceptional ability to marry craft with innovation, made her the natural choice to lead the house forward.”
Last year was a hugely successful one for Scott. Not only was the recipient of the CFDA’s Womenswear Designer of the Year, but she was also the winner of its first-ever Empowered Vision Award, which recognises “a designer who demonstrates exceptional creativity, business acumen, and potential for long-term success. By combining the philanthropic vision of the Frazier Family Foundation with the industry expertise of the CFDA, the partnership delivers targeted funding and bespoke support to advance Black-owned businesses in fashion.”
Scott made the following statement, posted on Instagram: “It is with great excitement that I join Proenza Schouler, a brand at the heart of American Fashion, and one I have long admired. I hold deep respect for the beauty and world Jack and Lazaro so brilliantly crafted, and I look forward to bringing my perspective in dialogue with their legacy. I am grateful to Shira for her trust and I am honoured to step into this role to envision the next chapter of Proenza Schouler.”
The post was met with universal excitement by the fashion industry’s leading tastemakers (Roopal Patel, Senior Vice President at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, commented “CONGRATULATIONS Rachel!! So well deserved.”) The joy of seeing a woman back in the driving seat at a brand who’s never been about dressing for the male gaze is palpable.
