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    1. Fashion

    London Fashion Week SS24: All the standout moments

    All the looks, hot off the catwalk

    Penny Goldstone's avatar
    By Penny Goldstone
    Published 15 September 2023 In News

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    London Fashion Week is always at the forefront of experimental and diverse fashion and this season is no exception.

    The SS24 collections from both emerging and seasoned designers started off with a bang, with mood-boosting, zesty trends as well as wearable designs you'll want to wear straight off the catwalk and for seasons to come. 

    Here are the London Fashion Week SS24 moments we can't stop thinking about.

    Erdem

    For SS24, Erdem examined a story of heritage, by paying homage to the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with Chatsworth House. Erdem was granted access to the archive of Debo, and the result is a collection not just inspired by her wardrobe, but an embodiment of her spirit and vision. Antique textiles from Chatsworth have been weaved into dresses and coat linings, and a deconstructed gown features remnants of Chatsworth House curtains, hand embroidered by Cecily Lasnet, Debo’s great granddaughter. 

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    TOVE

    No one understands what women want to wear quite like Camille Perry and Holly Wright, the brains behind TOVE. You could almost hear every spectator at the show mentally adding every item of their spring/summer 24 collection to their shopping list. Fluid silk dresses in classic neutral shades with a pop of colour here and there, tailored suits just the right side of oversized and a fresh take on wardrobe staples like the white shirt and the trench. There's not a single item we couldn't see ourselves wearing. And rather excitingly, TOVE introduced their debut luxury leather Footwear Collection. Hand crafted in Portugal and Italy, this capsule collection comprised of a babouche slipper in tumbled leather, a timeless flat, almond toe pump and an elegant flat sandal. Sold.

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    Simone Rocha

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    Richard Quinn

    Out of great loss comes a sense of reflection and calm, and Richard Quinn's latest collection was a beautiful homage to his father, Patrick James Quinn. Serenaded by the English Chamber Orchestra, models including Jourdan Dunn wore beautifully intricate designs, embellished with embroideries and crystals that caught the light. Each design was there to bring a sense of celebration and reflection, for the designer's greatest champion. 

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    JW Anderson

    JW Anderson's SS24 was all about having fun. Playing with proportions and texture, with the casual and the elevated, with the masculine and the feminine. There were oversized bombers which had feathers exploding at the seams, a hoodie moulded to the model's body, dresses with exaggerated hips, padded trousers in vibrant orange - a colour we're already lauding as SS24's star hue.

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    Molly Goddard

    Molly Goddard quite literally turned things inside out for her spring/summer 24 collection. She put the spotlight on the unsung heroes that pull garments together -  grosgrain, zig zag stitching, exposed zips - by deliberately leaving them on show and making them the focus of each look. There were frills peaking out from seams of tailoring, pin tucks cut on the bias creating new silhouettes and draping, in rich pastel shades interspersed with vivid green.

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    Emilia Wickstead

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    AllSaints

    This year marks AllSaints' 30th anniversary and to celebrate, it took over the last remaining tram station in the UK, The Kingsway Tram Tunnels, in a fashion first.

    As for inspiration, it looked to the beginning. Imagine it's 1994, the year that the summer festival exploded into popular culture. Woodstock, Glastonbury, Burning Man... they all served as inspiration for the collection, which featured delved into the archives of AS with crochet, embellishment, maxi and micro hem lines and studded leather throughout.

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    Tolu Coker

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    Supriya Lele

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    Yuhan Wang

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    KNWLS

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    Eudon Choi

    Presented in the stunning setting of St Paul's Church in Covent Garden, Eudon Choi's SS24 collection, 'Chasing Butterflies', was inspired by impressionist painter Berthe Morisot. This was reflected in the fluidity and softness of the garments' movement, perhaps evoking the artist's brushstroke. Muted tones of pink, blue and grey were lifted by the occasional saturated hue (this is Eudon after all), while deconstructed tailoring was mixed in with whimsical dresses that enhanced the models' movements. 

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    David Koma

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    ASHISH

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    Labrum

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    Masha Popova

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    FROLOV

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    Feben

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    Huishan Zhang

    For SS24, Huishan Zhang looked to the powerful movements of dancers to create elegant and fluid silhouettes that slip effortlessly from day to night. Think silk dresses and separates inspired by classical ballet, colourful sequinned gowns that glitter with movement, as well as more wearable Italian satin jersey pieces embodying the off-stage dancer.

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    Bora Aksu

    Bora Aksu's designs never fail to bring us joy, and his SS24 was no exception. It was inspired by his Turkish heritage, evident in details such as rich embroidery, bold colours and the Fez hats the models were wearing. Plenty of frills and bows adorned the collection which was a 'harmonious fusion of tradition, contemporary and refined femininity'.

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    Mark Fast

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    Di Petsa

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    Noon by Noor

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    SRVC

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    Lee x Patrick McDowell

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    Mulberry x Stefan Cooke

    Introducing Mulberry x Stefan Cooke, the first to champion pre-loved styles from the British brand’s circularity programme, The Mulberry Exchange. For this limited-edition capsule, Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt have re-imagined 27 pre-loved bags, including the iconic Bayswater, the Roxanne and the Lily. The collection is available to purchase online and in Mulberry’s Regent Street flagship, and in the Mulberry Pre-Loved Pop-Up.

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    Penny Goldstone
    Penny Goldstone
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    Contributing Fashion Editor

    Penny Goldstone is the Contributing Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK. She writes about catwalk trends and the latest high street and Instagram sartorial must-haves. She also helms the Women Who Win franchise.

    She has worked in fashion for over 10 years, contributing to publications such as Cosmopolitan, Red, Good Housekeeping, and Stylist.

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