Dior Autumn/Winter 2025: the return of a much-coveted classic

Dior AW25 — (Image credit: Getty Images)

Maria Grazia Chiuri just revived a classic design on the Dior Autumn/Winter 2025 runway — the 'J'adore Dior' t-shirt. First introduced in Spring/Summer 2001 by then-creative director John Galliano, it reached superstar status after being worn on Sex And The City (by both Lucy Liu and Sarah Jessica Parker). Archive versions have since been worn by Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner, and now Chiruri has put her own spin on the design, ready for a modern-day audience obsessed with nostalgia.

Worn underneath a tailcoat jacket, floral jacquard corset, or shearling coat, the iconic T-shirt appeared throughout Dior's autumn/winter 2025 collection, with the final two iterations being embellished with delicate lace appliqué around the hem and shoulders.

And what about the rest of the collection? Chiuri is known for her storytelling, and this season models moved through fire, ice and smoke on an ever-changing set, inspired by Virginia Woolf's novel 'Orlando'. Published in 1928, Woolf's story about the adventures of a poet who changes sex from man to woman and lives for centuries, meeting the key figures of English literary history along the way, has provided inspiration for countless on-screen and on-stage interpretations.

The show was split into five acts. A solo swing kicked off the proceedings, with the words "Once Upon A Time" written across its side — the same words were repeated over the sound system, before a pre-historic-looking giant bird flew above the audience.

Guests included Natalie Portman, Lily James, Michelle Monaghan and Natalia Vodianova.

The clothes were lace-heavy and filled with romance — ruffles, tulle and structured dresses harked back to times of old. Pale micro ruffs were worn about almost every model's neck, styled with breeches and knee-high patent leather boots, referencing a melting pot of historical periods.

Large rocks then descended from the ceiling, followed by illuminated glaciers which emerged from beneath the floor in clouds of smoke. The digital ground oscillated between molten lava and calm blue light, as models forged a path through the elements.

The colour palette was stripped back and largely monochromatic, save for splashes of dark navy, olive green and deep red, with a smattering of floral prints. Perfectly balanced between masculine and feminine, from straight-cut trousers to wide-hipped skirts, this was a wardrobe perfect for Woolf's fictional character.

Rebecca Jane Hill is a freelance fashion editor and stylist. She is the former fashion editor at Drapers, and has contributed to publications such as Elle, Refinery29, Stylist, Glamour, The Face, Dazed, Bricks, and Riposte. She has also worked with brands such as Dr Martens, Gucci and Calvin Klein across strategy, consultancy and creative direction.