It was only when I was lying back on a treatment bed, face numbed, and a skin pen hovering just millimetres above my face that I had a realisation: I had no idea where the exosomes that were about to be stamped into my face came from. Now, this may sound incredibly beauty editor specific, but I'd wager that the majority of us don't know what ingredients are being used in our treatments—right down to the fundamentals of whether they're vegetarian or vegan.
While I may be a meat-eater, over the past year, I've noticed that chatter in the industry has revolved around how aware we are of what's in our tweakments. The British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM) recently launched its "Vet it Before You Get it" campaign to counter what its Annual Clinical Review deemed to be a "dangerously under-regulated industry". In an effort to mitigate this, they're urging patients to ask safety questions before booking a consultation. They range from discerning practitioners' qualifications and registration numbers to knowing exactly what product will be used in the treatment, and whether it's CE-marked or FDA-approved.
But this also lends itself to ethical and moral issues. I have had several vegetarian and vegan colleagues and friends express confusion over whether they can get certain tweakments, due to how they are sourced. And indeed, award-winning aesthetics doctor and founder of Perfect Skin Solutions, Dev Patel, tells me that a surprising number of aesthetic treatments are neither vegetarian nor vegan.
While not everyone who identifies this way will have qualms about getting these treatments, Dr Patel says that awareness around ingredient sourcing is slowly growing, for the better.
"In my experience, most patients are not aware, but this is where it is so important for me to educate and inform them. There’s a clear shift to people wanting ethical treatments that align with their lifestyle. When patients find out, for example, that polynucleotides or Botox are not vegan, they’re sometimes surprised but appreciate the transparency. It empowers them to make decisions that feel consistent with their lifestyle."
What aesthetic tweakments are suitable for veggies and vegans?
"In aesthetics, the ‘vegan/vegetarian friendly’ status of a treatment usually comes down to how the active ingredients are produced," explains the doctor. As such, non-invasive, energy-based treatments, including laser, radiofrequency, ultrasound and LED, contain no biological materials, making them completely veggie and vegan friendly.
Things get slightly more complex when it comes to injectables, though—but let's start with the good news first. Most leading hyaluronic acid dermal fillers are produced with non-animal stabilised hyaluronic acid technology—these fillers are typically vegan as they contain no animal-derived collagen or proteins. However, Dr Patel always advises patients to check the specific brand with their practitioner.
Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, consultant ophthalmologist and oculoplastic surgeon, also stresses that vegans and vegetarian patients need to be aware that if they have dermal filler and ever need it dissolved, hyaluronidase would be required, and this is not vegan-friendly. "It is derived from animal sources, specifically bovine (cow) or ovine (sheep) tissue, and is necessary in cases of vascular occlusion or when filler results need to be reversed, such as in the tear trough or lips."
What treatments aren't suitable for veggies and vegans?
Botox is another incredibly popular cosmetic procedure, but it's worth remembering that "Botox" is just one brand within the overarching treatment, known as "Botulinum Toxin". As Dr Patel explains: "Most, if not all, contain human serum albumin as a stabiliser, making them unsuitable for vegans."
One of my personal favourite treatments, polynucleotides, is famously derived from fish DNA, often salmon sperm, making them unsuitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Similarly, exosomes are often derived from animal sources such as bovine or fish. However, there are also plant-derived exosomes, including those that are made from flowers and fruit, so it's important to check with your provider.
When it comes to PRP, or platelet-rich plasma—a regenerative therapy that uses a concentration of the patient's own platelets from their blood—it's largely up to the individual. "While technically autologous (from the intended recipient), vegans may choose to decline this treatment as it is a blood-related procedure," says Dr Patel.
What are the alternatives?
To be safe, both doctors advise that veggies and vegans steer clear of polynucleotides and exosomes.
"For skin boosting, there are some hyaluronic acid boosters or even regenerative topicals," notes Dr Patel. "For volume restoration, I’d recommend hyaluronic acid fillers as long as the patient checks the specific brand. Laser rejuvenation can be great for holistic improvement. Both treatments together complement each other exceptionally to create a natural, rejuvenated complexion. Medically-backed skincare can also be transformative for the skin."
This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice, always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before making treatment decisions.
