I just asked a make-up artist exactly how to contour lips for a fuller, more defined pout—and it’s surprisingly easy

As someone who would rate themselves as having absolutely zero make-up application skills, whenever I see a new make-up trend or technique take off I tend to put my head in the sand. You see, despite it being my actual job to write about the new trends, I know that there’s absolutely no chance of me being able to nail them myself or for them to have any impact at all on my everyday routines. I tend to move right along and explore something else. So it’s as much of a surprise to me as it is to anyone that I’ve been totally taken by one make-up trend that’s been dominating my social feeds over the last few weeks—lip contouring.

Of course, having spent a fair amount of time backstage at fashion shows over the last few years watching the best make-up artists in the business hard at work, it’s safe to say that lip contouring is nothing new. However, the launch of Hailey Bieber’s new Rhode Peptide Lip Shapes last month has certainly seen the technique going viral of late.

And while I have never had any particular interest in contouring anywhere else on my face—I consider the entire practice rather too high-maintenance and fiddly for me—lip contouring as drawn me in. I've noticed the natural fullness in my lips start to subside over the last few years, so I am keen for anything that promises more contoured, plump and full-looking lips.

So, what actually is lip contouring and how on earth do you contour your lips if you’re as rubbish at mastering make-up techniques as me?

What is lip contouring?

Simply put, contouring is a make-up technique that uses light and shade to define, sculpt and enhance the face—in this case, the lips specifically. “It’s all about the strategic placement of products to shape the lips,” explains Clara Milnes, make-up artist at Beam, London’s inclusive make-up experience. Typically, the technique is used to add fullness where it might naturally be lacking or to create a more defined lip shape. Plus, Clara also points out that she might use the technique if a client had an uneven lip shape, in which case lip contouring can help to correct and balance this.

Why is lip contouring so popular right now?

As mentioned, lip contouring is nothing new, but there’s no denying that it’s trending right now. Clara points to a wider desire for people to want fuller, more defined lips as to some of the reasons that the technique is going viral online. “There’s been a rise in cosmetic procedures like lip filler, lip blush, and lip tattoo, so lip contouring ust allows people to experiment with altering and enhancing their natural lip shape in a non-invasive way and without committing to a procedure,” Clara explains. “When done correctly, lip contouring creates a really natural enhancement to the lips and is completely customisable to each person.”

How to lip contour

As someone who is utterly rubbish at mastering make-up techniques, I was keen for Clara to talk me through an achievable step-by-step on how to lip contour at home. First up, she recommends prepping lips with a lip balm, and a scrub first if they’re particularly dry. Next, it’s the lip liner.

“Start by creating a v shape on your cupid's bow just outside of your natural lip line and then slightly overline the centre of your bottom lip,” says Clara. “Then use the lip liner at the outer corners of the lips, but follow your natural lip line—be careful not to overline here as this will start to look unnatural. Finally, connect the outer corners to the centre of the lips.”

By following this technique, Clara explains that your lips will look full but still natural. And if you want to add even more depth you can use a powder contour or bronzer shade to create a shadow just under your bottom lip using a fluffy brush.

To finish the look? Clara recommends choosing a lip colour that’s slightly lighter than the lip liner and applying it to the centre of your lips. “Blend the two shades into each other for a seamless finish that will help the lips look even fuller, then finish with more lip balm or a lip gloss,” says Clara.

How to choose the best lip contour shade for you

There are two elements to choosing the best lip contour shade for you—the undertone and the depth. “You want to be sure to choose a lip liner that isn’t too warm or pink as this will not necessarily contour the lips,” explains Clara. “Instead, opt for a lip liner with a more cool or neutral undertone as this will contour the lips in a more natural and effective way.” In terms of depth, Clara suggests choosing a shade that’s a close match to your lip colour for a natural contour or one slightly darker for a more intense effect.

The best products to contour lips

Ready to give lip contouring a go? Ahead, some of the best products that I’ve tried lately and some of Clara’s recommendations.

1. Rhode Peptide Lip Shape

There has been an undeniable correlation between the launch of the Rhode Peptide Lip Shapes and the number of people lip contouring in their get ready with me videos on social media so I couldn’t wait to see what all the hype was with this product. Surprisingly, I’ve been wearing this most days since it landed with me as it’s so incredibly comfortable to wear and so easy to apply. The formula itself is infused with peptides to soften and smooth and fenugreek extract to firm and plump, and it does have a lovely smoothing velvety effect on the lips. Although it’s quite chunky compared to a classic lip pencil, it does make it easy to scribble it on for a fairly lived-in, relaxed-looking lip contour. And although it’s not a long-wear product, it feels lovely on the lips and is so creamy that you could use the same product to fill in your lips too.

2. Victoria Beckham Beauty Lip Definer

Not only does Clara rate this as one of the best products to use to contour lips, but so do I. Despite not being loyal to many lip liners, these from VB have had a permanent home in my make-up bag since they launched a few years back thanks to how creamy and comfortable they are to wear and how polished they make lips look. I love the selection of wearable neutral shades, and I often use one beneath a lipstick or a balm for an easy lip look. However, following Clara’s tips I’ve been using it to create a natural-looking contour and it does a great job of smoothing and enhancing my natural lip shape.

3. Refy Blur Liner

Despite the many documented issues with the packaging of this product—something that I’m sure REFY is working on—this is a brilliant product if you want to use the lip contour technique to create a fuller-looking pout. The domed tip means it glides on much like a lip balm would, hugging the outer edges of your lips to create a diffused, soft-focus lip shape. Unlike a traditional lip liner, this isn’t sharp or precise but it adds undeniable volume and fullness.

4. Makeup By Mario Ultra Sculpting Lip Pencil

One of Clara’s picks for the best lip contour, this liner is brilliant if you’re looking to find a colour to suit your lip colour and skin tone as there are so many great neutrals to choose from here. Plus, in terms of longevity, it offers impressive long-wear for a liner as creamy as it is. The addition of the fluffy brush at the end of the dual-tip pencil is great for smudging out any ultra-sharp lines for a more natural look or blending your contour with any lip products you apply on top.

5. Huda Beauty Lip Contour 2.0

Before there was Rhode there was Huda Beauty, and this lip contour pencil was well ahead of the curve when it comes to this trend. With all of the comfort and pigment of a classic cream lipstick but all the precision of a liner, this twist-up contour product makes it so easy to create a more plump, sculpted and defined lip look. And if you hate touching up your make-up then you’re in luck, as this stuff stays put for hours and hours without budging. Perfection.