Ingeniously restored art nouveau townhouse with sprawling roof top garden in bohemian San Telmo, where tango rules
Once home to Buenos Aires’ elite, San Telmo was abandoned after a yellow fever outbreak in 1871. Aristocratic mansions became conventillos (tenements) for immigrant families.
Gentrification began in 1970, but the neighbourhood was still a patchwork in 2005 when two Brits rescued the run-down townhouse and spent a year restoring art nouveau elements, including a three-storey wall of paned glass with extravagant wrought iron flourishes.
Today, this laidback guest house – which passed to new owners in 2008 – is the complete antithesis of a standardised city hotel.
Five imaginative rooms make shrewd use of space while showcasing the previous owners’ artful personalities. Three open to a rambling roof garden with cosy niches.
Enjoy luxe features (Egyptian bedlinen, free wi-fi) along with the kind of personalised advice about nearby restaurants, shops and tango salons that you’d expect from a trusted friend.
The Cocker, Buenos Aires, Argentina is a boutique guesthouse with 5 rooms with doubles costing from US$90 for bed and breakfast.