The 'I'm-not-wearing-any-make-up-but-really-I-am' look is a skill that we're still trying to perfect, but thanks to the beauty pros backstage at Milan Fashion Week, we're that bit closer to nailing it.
Suppress your yawns, because despite the fact that SS14 has so far been an ode to ‘raw’ skin and ‘natural’ hair, Milano has put its own spin on things. So it’s time to sit up and take note:
1. Put your hands through your hair like you just don’t care.
It may still be ‘natural’ but trust those Italians to inject a bit of rock’n’roll glamour into proceedings, and we say ‘grazie mille’ to them. The standard beachy styles abounded, but it was the slightly 80s Madonna-esque side flick at Emilio Pucci (as if the girls had raked their hair over to one side) and the post-concert slick at John Richmond that really caught our imaginations. Italian Creative Director for TIGI Marco Iafrate explained that whilst the volume was inspired by the 80s, the texture was more nineties-natural as if the girls had simply pushed their hands through their hair at the end of the night. The key is to use a water-based styling cream such as Catwalk by TIGI’s Session Series Styling Cream to give separation, shine and a slightly lived-in feel.
2. Add a touch of black pigment to your foundation.
Really. At least that’s what make-up maestro Lisa Butler convinced us to do at Emilio Pucci where she added a touch of MAC’s darkest foundation (or alternatively some black kohl) into a foundation that matched the models’ skin. Why? It gives depth without the makeup-y feel of bronzer and not a hint of an orange hue. She then swooshed a mixture of grey and cold brown eyeshadow over the eyes before pressing a wine-coloured lipstick onto the inside of the lips. ‘The overall effect is so subtle you may not even notice the difference until you see a before picture but it just adds a bit of dimension and drama in a groomed rather than ‘done’ way.’
3. Go on the diagonal for the most realistic-looking wave.
So said hair stylist Mark Hampton of his ‘cool surfer girls’ at Iceberg. ‘To give that casual effortless feel, I prepped the hair with sea salt before taking a one inch curling tong to give the hair some movement.’ He conceded that creating a wave that looks totally natural is a tricky thing to master, but the key is to hold it at an angle and make each section slightly different thicknesses.
4. For the most natural glow, wear your blusher on your nose.
We know what you’re thinking but bear with us on this one. There’s nothing that screams ‘blusher’ more than a swathe of pink on your apples or a stripe of peach on your cheekbones. For ultra realistic colour use a bronzer or blusher in one big sweep across the cheekbones and nose. According to make-up legend Charlotte Tilbury, who employed this technique at both Sportmax and Etro, it gives a healthy, slightly wind-burnt effect that makes it look as though ‘a make-up artist hasn’t been near’ the models.
5. Multi-task your moisturiser.
In a season where ‘raw skin’ has thus far reigned supreme, skincare has become the make-up artists’ (and models’) backstage BFF. But rather than just being used at the prep stage, the humble moisturiser has been elevated to the role of highlighter and perfector in a season where even gloss feels too overt.
As Tom Pecheux and Diane Kendal explained at Blumarine and Roberto Cavalli, highlighting is about leaving the skin uncovered rather than bringing out areas with product. ‘After applying moisturiser, I’m only powdering the t-zone so that you get that natural shine coming through on the rest of the face,’ said Tom at Blumarine. Whilst Diane went further at Roberto Cavalli by daubing points on the face such as the cheekbones, cupids bow and temples with moisturiser for a ‘slightly sweaty summer glow’.