Whilst last season, Copenhagen Fashion Week saw a smattering of physical shows, designers are currently presenting their AW21 collections in digital format. But this categorically does not meant they’re any less spellbinding.
Brands such as Rixo, Rodebjer, Ganni and Nynne put their creative hats on to deliver their collections in the format of short films, lookbooks, and talks, and it’s getting me excited for winter fashion. Here’s the lowdown so far.
Baum und Pferdgarten
What do you do when you can’t host a catwalk show? You call on your community, that’s what. This season, Baum und Pferdgarten innovated with a Lockdown Show, with a collection modelled on 21 friends of the brand across social, shot during lockdown.
‘Despite the difficulties of the past year, with some of us being unable to see our friends and loved ones for so long, we wanted this to be a joyful reminder that we are still connected,’ said creative directors & founders, Helle Hestehave & Rikke Baumgarten.
The collection itself was inspired by the contrast between the romantic allure of the countryside and the forsaken industrial landscapes of the Danish coastline.
The theme of the show was ‘Stillness’, an effort to keep us grounded in these troubled times. Gitte Wetter, head of design, retreated to a Danish summer house to design the collection, drawing inspiration from past decades, including the Victorian era and the 70s, all with a touch of serenity. There were exaggerated collars, rich hues and fabrics such as leather and suede.
By Malene Birger
By Malene Birger served up a collection we will all want to wear come next season. Oversized and elongated silhouettes, exaggerated layers, the cosiest and chicest knitted dresses and coats. I’ll have one of each please.
Nynne stepped away from traditional models to present its AW21 collection, an ode to women. NYNNE has to be for all women. The garments we make have to be wearable but also inspire. Designer Nynne Kunde explained, ‘I have always admired women who are fighting for what they want and I always look to classic suiting and power dressing as a starting point. For me, it’s about taking strong looks and lightening them. Subsequently encouraging more women to harness their feminine power without dressing like a man.’
She asked nine exceptional women from her native Copenhagen to model the designs, including entrepreneurs, designers and comedians of all ages. The collection was equally feminine and timeless, with soft and flattering silhouettes in hues that honoured Mother Earth with the use of rich and dusty neutral tones.
Holzweiler’s AW21 Collection was called Twist as a nod to how the brand has tackled the challenges in the world this past year, the twist being a gesture of change and disruption. Therefore, the collection was all about classics with a twist: oversized puffa jackets, deconstructed dresses, tough rubber boots in feminine pastels.
The show was originally planned to be shown at the Kistefos Museum, The Twist, designed by architects B.I.G but due to new lockdown restrictions, as brought back to the brand’s home: Lysaker Brygge at Oslo fjord.
This season, replacing the runway show, GANNI presented ‘LOVE FOREVER’, a live performance project with three talented female musicians, US singer-songwriter Zsela; LA-based grunge-hip hop artist Deb Never; and Copenhagen’s very own Coco O. Each performed a mix of their own material and covers of songs dear to designer Ditte Reffstrup, wearing pieces from the Fall/Winter 2021 collection.
This season is all about the details, with lots of ruching, draping, texture and structure to everyday pieces such as outerwear and dresses.
The AW21 collection was inspired by the idea of a ‘wunderkammer’, a cabinet of curiosities. Unique pieces that you truly love. A reminder to the Rodebjer team of how the selective design process ought to be, resulting in a collection which focuses on function, beauty and sustainability.
Hero pieces include transitional blanket coats and recycled wool cover-ups, soft cashmere knitwear and dresses for a post-Covid occasion, adorned with beautiful floral prints and made of jacquard.
Zalando Sustainability Award
Zalando have announced House of Dagmar as the winner of their Sustainability Award, receiving a generous grant of €20,000, in partnership with Copenhagen Fashion Week. The brand’s collection can be explored in the immersive Zalando Greenhouse.
House of Dagmar particularly impressed for its strong sustainable ambition which is implemented through many aspects of the brand’s supply chain, and as a result of the award, will receive a financial prize and a partnership with Zalando in developing an exclusive collection that will continue to explore sustainability solutions in design across materials, production processes, technological solutions and traceability.