For the first time in what feels like forever, Copenhagen Fashion Week is back to its former glory, with labels and designers such as Baum und Pferdgarten, Rodebjer and By Malene Birger showing their SS22 collections in the flesh.
And, believe it or not, street style is a thing again, with editors and influencers descending on the Danish capital in their best and brightest outfits. Here’s everything you’ve missed so far.
Baum und Pferdgarten
For Pre-Spring 2022, Baum und Pferdgarten paid homage to Finnish modernist architect and designer, Alvar Aalto, in particular his mesmerising outdoor swimming pools, that embody the delicate balance between strong graphic lines and soft organic shapes that he’s so famous for. This translate into clothes that were ‘the balance between functionality and aesthetics’ in an effortless mix of new athleisure with references to swimwear and bold pieces for easy living.
Think ruffled silk satin with dramatic psychedelic formations in bright colours, a graphic collage de-constructing Aalto’s most renowned chairs on sheer organza dresses and sporty separates including a pair of Bermuda shorts and a baseball tee. Subtle shades of powder, peach, taupe, and clay merged into crisp white, classic black, and Baum’s signature navy.
The Danish brand presented its collection in a digital format, with looks shot across three different locations in Denmark, inspired by the need to be free and explore. The collection has now also reached nearly 81% of responsible material use, moving one step closer to achieving the brand’s goal of 100% responsible material use by 2024.
Materials include responsibly sourced wool, leather and other high-quality materials, such as certified organic cotton, recycled fibres and cellulosic fibres from LENZING AG.
By Malene Birger
In a further step towards seasonless collections, Creative Director Maja Dixdotter emphasises that ‘each season isn’t about creating something entirely new but rather continuing the story we’ve been telling in the seasons before.’ So she continued with her 70s nomadic theme with pieces that aren’t simply stylish, they are meant to be lived in too.
Enveloping layers in natural linens and raffias lend texture to the season, while clean, sculpted leather and plush velvet add an unexpected structure. Peppered throughout the collection are bursts of burnt tangerine and rich plum with a folkloric print story acting as a framing to the season
Nynne also presented its SS22 collection digitally this season, in a magical seaside location. Stand-out pieces included an orange crepe suit, magenta dress and the label’s signature shirred neutral gowns.
Mother of Pearl
With responsibility at the forefront of every design, Mother of Pearl’s SS22 collection was designed to ‘make you feel incredible, don’t need to cost the earth’. With this mantra in mind, Amy Powney Creative Director, created laid back, easy going silhouettes. Maxi dresses with voluminous sleeves tied in bows at the back arm and long sleeved, tiered dresses feature deep box pleats that fall to the low hip. An element of structure in designs this season, where French seams are stitched on the outside to add texture to form fitting designs.
Holzweiler’s SS21 Collection explored the time between the lockdown and finally being able to travel again, and living our experiences through the eyes of friends and foreign people: in other words, in transit. It features genderless pieces such as chunky knitwear, pastel layers and printed separates.
For the new season, Gestuz is all about joyful, bold designs that we can wear with our newfound freedom. I loved the shades of orange and magenta.
‘Our Higher Love show concept is all about going to new heights. It’s a celebration of saying “yes” to everything, throwing your arms around the world, having fun, dancing, hedonism– an antidote to our recent times of lockdown and staying home. It’s more about a mindset. Reigniting our love for life and self-love. And wanting to do things responsibly. We wanted to embrace who we are, and what we do best by bringing back some of our GANNI favourites and old-flames to reignite the fire on our favourite projects and pieces from the past.’ says Ditte Reffstrup, Creative Director, GANNI
‘The S/S22 collection was inspired by real life moments. We wanted to capture the diverse needs of the modern woman, no matter where she is – whether she’s in the midst of a big city or enjoying the tranquillity of a summer vacation. The collection is filled with colouful moments captured in the busy city streets,’ comments Carin Rodebjer, Founder & Creative Director of Rodebjer
Copenhagen Fashion Week Street Style
Looking for style inspiration for the new season? Here are some of my favourite street style looks snapped at CPFW.