Virginie Viard elevates an ordinary button to whole new levels with her SS24 Haute Couture collection.
The set
Small yet mighty, the button has long epitomised the House of Chanel, adorning garments since the very first jacket Coco Chanel made. The set of the show pays tribute to the jewelled button: a paired back round set (unusual for Chanel), dominated by a giant button adorned with the interlocking Cs.
The inspiration
More than just a trivial, functional element, at Chanel the button elevates each look - as teased by actors and House ambassadors Margaret Qualley and Anna Mouglalis (with the help of Naomi Campbell) in the teaser shared by Chanel before the show: "Beauty within the imperfections of time" - "The button". We saw Qualley's quest to find the missing button on her iconic tweed jacket, with a glimpse of the different iterations of the object over the years.
In her show notes, Viard promised us she was taking the button, "an object as utilitarian as ornamental, into the world of ballet and dance". And that she certainly did.
The standout looks
Models gracefully walked down - or round - the runway, led by Margaret Qualley, with the graceful aura of ballet dancers. The first few looks were white, transitioning in an aquarelle-dominated palette of pale pinks and blues with the odd pop of colour.
Each look told a story, intrinsically linked to dance and ballet. The embroidered cropped pink jacket and mini skirt layered over a white leotard that a ballerina might wear post-rehearsal. The off-shoulder beaded and organza gown she might don for a red carpet event. The tutu and sequinned brassiere she might wear on stage, and the corset and trousers she might wear off it.
Couture always beautifully showcases the savoir-faire of the House, and that finesse can be seem throughout the collection in the beautiful and delicate details: the lace, the bows, the flowers, the sequins, and yes... the buttons.
Viard explained in her notes: "For me, dance evokes all these stories and emotions that are close to my heart, and that I take such pleasure in handing down and recounting".
And there was certainly no lack of emotion at this show.
The celebrities
As usual, the FROW was exceptional. Lucy Boynton, Imani Selina, Anna Mouglalis and Xin Zhi Lei were just some of the celebrities showing their support for the House of Chanel.
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