Style Briefing: Michael Rider’s Celine Is Already Defining a New Fashion Era— Here's How He Did It

Welcome to Style Briefing, a deep dive into the groundbreaking labels redefining fashion. From exploring their history to spotlighting the hardest-working hero buys for your wardrobe, we decode not only the designer behind the brand but also their latest collections and the signature style tribe they inspire.

In this latest instalment, we turn our attention to the exciting new era of Celine under Michael Rider. Having spent a decade working alongside Phoebe Philo before returning to the house as Creative Director, Rider has ushered in a fresh chapter that has reignited excitement around the storied French label. Here, we break down how, in less than two years, he has transformed Celine into one of the most coveted luxury fashion houses in the world, with stylish women everywhere eager to buy into his vision.

The Designer

When Michael Rider was appointed artistic director of Celine in 2024, it signalled a kind of homecoming—not just for the designer but for die-hard fans of Phoebe Philo. You see, Rider served as design director of ready-to-wear for a decade from 2008 to 2018 under Philo, honing his design language beside one of the most influential creatives in the sphere of women’s fashion, and contributing to the cult of @oldceline, the account that was created after the changing of the guard that brought in Hedi Slimane. While Slimane’s appointment initially divided opinion among Philo loyalists, his tenure proved undeniably successful from a commercial standpoint, driving significant growth for the house and attracting a new generation of loyal consumers.

Before Celine, Rider worked for another industry trailblazer between the years of 2004-2008, Nicolas Ghesquière, who then held the reins at Balenciaga. The American designer, who was born in Washington, D.C., has essentially worked for three household names in fashion because, after his first stint at Celine, he graduated to helming the womenswear arm of Polo Ralph Lauren. Known for its iconic prep—and tastefully executed sportswear—you can see the fruits of all three in what the internet is now calling “Current Celine”.

Style Notes

Michael Rider has already defined his Celine, choosing three words to encapsulate its essence before his first show for SS26. “Celine stands for quality, for timelessness and for style.” To those, one could add a certain intelligence—these are clothes for thinking women—and focus on the female gaze. Phoebe Philo’s most enduringly referenced pieces always lent a specific air to whoever bought them, whether it was the grass-coloured, menu-printed blanket (with entries including, “Bangers and Mash, £4.99” and “Jam Roly Poly”) or her black sock boots complete with contrast beige toebox. That air was hard-to-put-your-finger-on, cool yet clever, and it’s a legacy that is being continued by Rider, a designer who understands how to make easy, and yet erudite, clothes.

The Collection

Celine’s Parisian HQ—16 Rue Vivienne—was the venue for SS26, or, more specifically, its courtyard, with show-goers happily shaded beneath the canopy of trees lining either side of the catwalk. The setting, a snapshot of a breezy city life in spring, mirrored the collection in some respects; clothing that was classic-with-a-twist—artful yet undeniable wearable.

Rider presented a fully-realised wardrobe, with facets of tailoring (tuxedo jackets styled with skinny jeans), prep (navy blazers worn over high-waisted chinos) and feminine sculpture (jersey gowns twisting around the body), offering his customer “hero” pieces to collect—and wear for a lifetime (the cropped biker jackets, scarf-lined trench coats, gilded Celine logo belts, which have already flown off the shelves, and leather Derbies). The colour palette was distinctly Philo-esque, primary shots of canary, tomato and cobalt, which intersected with plenty of black and white.

“Old Céline” was how the fans referred to the brand under Philo (Hedi Slimane famously scrapped the brand’s accent over the first “e” when he joined the maison). Maybe Rider’s era could be defined as “New Old Celine”, considering his association with Philo, Or, maybe, he will carve his own path, while paying homage to the house’s storied heritage, and many chapters.

The Icons

The Celine belt sn’t just a thing of beauty; it’s a bona fide cult accessory. Cleverly incorporating the brand’s distinctive logo — two interlocking Cs rendered in curved gold-finished plates — it strikes a balance between statement-making and sophistication. The effect is arresting and artistic, a far cry from quiet luxury, while also serving as an ingenious marketing tool that continues to captivate customers past, present and future. A staple among some of fashion’s most stylish names, it has the power to transform even the simplest outfit.

The Impact

Whilst the house doesn't publicly discuss its sustainability practices, Rider used the words “quality” and “timelessness” to describe his Celine—and they go some way to helping the brand’s case when it comes to consumption. These are clothes that speak for themselves, outside a seasonal trend cycle, and, as such, should almost become collector’s items (rather like “Old Céline”, which surely still does a brisk trade on resale platforms).

Celine Fan Club

With a rollcall of fans including Meryl Streep, Tracee Eliss Ross and Michaela Coel, Michael Rider is certainly doing something right. After his most recent show, in fact, Ross commented on Instagram: “my my my MICHAEL RIDER what a collection.” It's also becoming a red-carpet threat (Hacks' Hannah Einbinder wore the coolest "gown", actually a turtleneck and tulip skirt, at this year's Cannes Film Festival).

The Marie Claire Edit

What’s special about this collection is that you could cherry pick one item and deploy it whenever an outfit needs a little something extra. This is as true of the “everyday” garments (the brand’s cotton-twill black trousers), as the look-twice accessories (the honeyed sunglasses). Here are just some of our favourites below.