What are polygel nails? A guide to the lengthening alternative to BIAB

It would be hard to miss the uproar going on around gel nails right now, with horror stories of allergies all over our screens. (Don't worry, most people can still do at-home gel nails without risk). It has more and more of us searching for other types of manicures—which is why polygel, the stronger sister to the gel nail, is proving so searched for on Google right now. 

If, like me, you've been giving your nails a much-needed break while we get to the bottom of whether gel nails are actually bad for you (spoiler alert: they are most likely more than okay), then you might not know too much about polygel nails, so let me change that for you. 

The polygel nail sits somewhere between gel and acrylic nails. You may be thinking isn't that BIAB? But, unlike BIAB, polygel nails can create an extension in the nail, and if you've ever tried BIAB at home, you'll know getting the right shape is no mean feat. 

Polygel nails take the hard part of creating a nail shape out of the equation, instead using the polygel with a plastic tip to mould the perfect shape. You've probably seen videos of polygel nails on Instagram over the years, and while it isn't as easy as a ten second video might make it appear, it's certainly a great option for those worried about nail health.

I spoke to the experts to find out all there is to know about polygel nails. And yes, you can still use your favourite gel polish colour, and have the best nail art on them.  

So I picked the brains of 14 Day Mani's Julita Fagan and Tinu Bello, celebrity manicurist and Senior Brand Ambassador for Mylee.

Your guide to PolyGel nails for beginners

What are polygel nails?

If you're a nail fanatic like me and your Instagram feed is always filled with the latest nail trends, then I'm willing to bet you've definitely seen polygel nails before. 

It all started in lockdown (not that we want to remember that), as a way to achieve salon-worthy nails at home. The videos show nails that look super slick and like they are fresh out of the salon.

"A polygel nail system would be best described as a hybrid which encompasses the strength of an acrylic enhancement while maintaining some of the flexibility of a gel enhancement. Polygel nails are also lighter on the hands, providing a more natural feel to the nails," Julita explains. 

Tinu says, "It is a hybrid nail polish formula originally created for nail technicians, but now available for at-home use." Also known as extender gel, it is "a malleable gel formula that can be moulded to your desired shape. Extender gel is particularly user-friendly because it doesn’t set until it is cured—meaning you can have as many goes as you want nailing your look," adds Tinu.

The benefits of polygel nails

Why choose polygel nails over acrylics or a gel mani? The experts share a number of benefits to a poly mani, as long as they are applied and removed correctly of course. 

"It's beneficial in providing a durable and safe means to growing and maintaining natural nails," says Fagan. "It can be used as an overlay on the natural nails or for creating nail extensions," she continues. 

Wanting to grow your natural nails? Polygel may be the way to go. "It is amazing for aiding the natural nails in their growth. With proper upkeep and maintenance of your nails, you can expect to see an increased speed of growth and length retention within 2-3 applications," Fagan tells me. Plus, they can last for two to four weeks before needing maintenance or removal. 

Are polygel nails safe?

With all the controversy going on around gel nail manicures right now, I had to check with the experts if polygel manicures have the same safety concerns.

"When properly applied and removed, PolyGel manicures are a safe [option] for your nails. One may also enjoy that there are no smells, such as monomer, released into the air during application, something which many may have otherwise found to be an unpleasant experience during an acrylic application," says Fagan. 

How to apply polygel nails

If you've seen polygel nails on TikTok, then you'll know it looks super quick and easy. But I can tell you from experience that it certainly takes longer than it seems. While it can be super easy, this is my disclaimer to you that you may not get it perfect the first few times—it just takes some practice. 

"Polygel is super easy to try at home, and with proper nail preparation and application practice, you will find you will quickly improve, while your nails will equally flourish. 14 Day Manicure offers an amazing Polygel Nail Kit with everything you will need to begin your polygel journey at home. Following the steps below, you can create a set of polygel nails within minutes," says Fagan. 

A top tip from Tinu: "Bad application of the polygel can lead to them not lasting as long as you'd like or becoming too thick and sticky on the nail. This could happen because of using too much polygel slip solution when moulding with your brush." If you're struggling to get the desired look. "You might also be using too thick a layer especially close to your cuticles and sides which can cause the product to start lifting," she adds. 

"First, you want to start with everything you need around you. You'll need an LED lamp, extender (polygel) gel and any gel nail shades you wish to use on top. You'll need a moulding tool and brush to help shape the extender gel, as well as a slip solution to help with the moulding," says Tinu.

Be sure to always following the application tips for whatever polygel kit or brand you go with.

Removing polygel nails at home

You should get two to four weeks out of your polygel manicure before it needs a top up or removal. While proper application is vital to prevent lifting, removing polygel nails correctly at home is even more important. 

"Like many other gel-based systems, polygel is a product which is safely removed with an acetone soak," says Julita. "The Polygel should be filed down to a thin, protective layer (approximately 10% of enhancement remaining) and soaked in a bowl of acetone," she explains. 

"For the quickest removal, place the bowl of acetone in a bowl of warm water while soaking as the warmth will assist in breakdown of the product," she adds. 

Shop polygel nail kits

Even if you are an at-home gel manicure pro, a polygel nail kit is the best place to start. There are a few items you will need to create polygel nails that you may not already have in your kit—a primer, a brush and plastic tips. These are, hands down, the best polygel nail kits around.