Mithridate's creative director on the brand's official debut and working with Harry Lambert

This season's London Fashion Week was nothing short of spectacular. Aside from a very exciting 40th year anniversary. The bi-yearly occasion that brings the fashion set to London delivered a handful of must-see moments, celeb front-row inspiration, and a handful of merited debuts within the official schedule.

One specific brand that held its calendar debut is luxury pioneer Mithridate, which has Central Saint Martins alumni Demon Zhang as its creative director. Zhang has strong design prowess and impressive experience, having previously assisted Lee McQueen and John Galliano.

This season, Zhang turned to her native China as the source of inspiration for the brand's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, nodding to her hometown, Yunnan, known for its breathtaking landscapes filled with vibrant diversity and rich cultural traditions.

Commonly known as the 'Flower Kingdom,' it was only fitting that the collection showcased these motifs in the form of expertly executed beaded dresses, cape gowns, headpieces, and exquisitely reimagined Chinese traditional formalwear, some of which took inspiration from the region's distinctive silverware and traditional tie-dying methods.

We caught up with Zhang on the importance of fusing tradition, her official schedule debut, and working with celebrity stylist Harry Lambert for this collection.

On the brand's schedule debut

How important was it for you to showcase your roots and culture in your first season on the official schedule?

Actually, every show is very important to me. Presenting on the official schedule in the form of a presentation this time is indeed a greater challenge for us. On the one hand, the duration of the entire event is longer, which means we will have more attendees, and they will stay for a longer time, having the opportunity to get closer to the garments. This requires a high level of execution for each piece in the collection, as well as the on-site presentation of the collection’s concept.

The materials, textures, and colours

Could you tell us more about how the “Flower Kingdom” inspired the textures, colours, and materials in the collection?

My hometown, Yunnan, is indeed a kingdom of flowers. The city I was born in, Kunming, is also known as the “Spring City.” The natural environment of this land offers abundant sunshine and dry air, and people here love bright and vivid clothing and decorations. So, I grew up believing that clothes should always be “colourful,” with the layering of colours being very common and especially beautiful. Therefore, in this season, high brightness and saturation are central themes for me. Bright yellow, emerald green, tangerine, violet, peach pink, and pomegranate red—I used various materials and techniques to blend these colours, creating a rich and vibrant visual experience.

Construction methods

Can you explain the traditional tie-dying method that was utilised?

The technique I used this time is not the traditional tie-dye method. Ice dyeing uses ice as a medium, carrying soluble dyes that are placed on top of pre-tied or stacked fabrics. As the ice melts, it naturally flows and seeps through the fabric with the dye, creating a random colouring effect. I applied the traditional ice dyeing technique to various fabrics, including denim, burnout, lace, silk, knits, and textured woven fabrics. Among them, natural fabrics achieved the best colouring results.

Incorporating tradition

Why was it important to incorporate Yunnan’s traditional techniques into this collection?

Many traditional techniques, when viewed in the context of modern life and production, may seem somewhat “inefficient.” However, in my view, this conventional “wisdom” can still bring new inspiration and freshness to our current lives. They can also teach us how to create clothing in ways that are more friendly to nature. For instance, their clothing designs have always accommodated various body shapes and sizes, or they have devised inner layers and outerwear that are easy to put on and take off in response to the weather. They have also modified fabrics to make them more breathable and antibacterial, among other improvements.

This is why I initiated this series of experiments—to combine these traditional crafts from my hometown with contemporary garment-making techniques, and to reintegrate them into our lives in ways that better suit modern dressing habits. Throughout this process, many interesting outcomes and unexpected surprises are bound to emerge, which is a theme I am deeply passionate about exploring as a designer.

Working with Harry Lambert

Talk us through styling this collection with Harry Lambert? What was that process like?

Harry is an amazing and very experienced stylist. I have always believed that professional matters should be left to the professionals. Therefore, after we completed all the garments for this season, we handed everything over to Harry and his team.

Harry and I developed a great working rapport. When he first saw the entire collection, he didn’t rush to ask me various questions; instead, he took the time to think through and organize his thoughts about the clothes themselves. By the time I met with him, he already had a very clear idea and styling approach for the season. We discussed and fine-tuned the details from there, including fabric combinations, accessory choices, and more, and quickly reached an agreement. What surprised me was that I had created some accessories with traditional elements, and it seemed like he instantly knew how to use them as soon as he got his hands on them!

On its impressive list of celebrity supporters

Attention to craftsmanship and the pursuit of comfort are principles I must adhere to, regardless of the design style I choose. After all, clothing is fundamentally a functional product—it touches the body, protects the body, and expresses the body. Providing a comfortable wearing experience is something I, as a designer, must always offer to my users.

Then there’s the commitment to detail, including fabric selection, the placement of a button, the positioning of pockets, and the stitching at the seams—none of these can be overlooked; they must be done to the best of my ability. I am also deeply grateful to all the friends who have chosen MITHRIDATE. Thank you for choosing and appreciating my designs.