Ectoin: the must-have ingredient of 2024 that works wonders on dry and sensitive skin types

At the end of each year beauty experts give their predictions for the following 12 months. From manicurists guiding us on the nail trends to be on top of as we head into Spring, to the hair trends that will see us through each of our salon visits. Dermatologists get in on the act too - they give us an indication of the facial procedures that will be at the top of everyone's treatment lists, as well as the must-have ingredients to include in our skincare routines. At the end of 2023, multiple skin experts predicted that one of the biggest ingredients of the year would be ectoin. 

As we approach spring, we've already seen a number of big product launches drop and those in the know were right, ectoin is appearing on more and more inci lists. 

But what is it and why should we be on the look out for it? We sat down with some of the industry's most respected skin experts to find out. 

What is ectoin?

Ectoin is a extremolyte, which is a protective molecule that safeguards organisms from extreme and harsh environments. In the case of ectoin, it does this for a specific strain of bacteria discovered in 1985 in a salt lake. It protects that bacteria by creating a protective shield that stops UV, heat and pollutants from inflicting damage. It was found later on that it could do the same thing for skin and it's set to become the skin barrier's new BFF.

What does ectoin do to the skin?

"What doesn't it do?" should be the more appropriate question. Ectoin has a lengthy list of skin benefits. "It's known as a "natural moisturiser" that can help hydrate and soothe dry, irritated or damaged skin," says Dr Eirini Merika, Consultant Dermatologist at Montrose London.. By creating the same type of protection as it does to the bacteria, which Dr Merika dubbed a "hydro shield", it prevents water loss from cells, enhances skin moisture and hydration and regulates cell turnover. 

Quite a list of talents for one single ingredient. Dr Malvina Cunningham, a Consultant Dermatologist, says that it's a unique ingredient for that very reason: "It hydrates in a similar way to hyaluronic acid, it protects the skin in a similar way to antioxidants and it soothes the skin in a similar way to ingredients such as bisabolol." Dr Bei Bei Du Harper, another dermatologist, really likes it as an alternative to bakuchiol because of how much it supports the skin barrier, calms inflammation and helps protect against UVA damage.

Who would benefit most from using ectoin in their skincare?

The beauty of ectoin and its barrier-supporting powers is that it works for every single skin type. However, if you have dry, dehydrated or sensitised skin - we're talking tightness, dullness, redness and visible creases on the face - then it's time to start seeking out ectoin next time you go skincare shopping, because you are going to see the difference the most. 

Dr Merika suggests that even those with inflammatory skin conditions, like atopic dermatitis, could also use products with ectoin thanks to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Dr Cunningham adds that it makes a great midlife ingredient, because of "its abilities to hydrate, protect and soothe the skin." 

How do you use ectoin in your skincare routine?

The beauty of this ingredient is that it can be formulated into any product type, but Dr Cunningham says that it's most effective in creams and serums. Which is handy because it can now be found in some of the best face serums on the market. 

Products formulated with ectoin

In a nutshell, ectoin strengthens the skin barrier, boosts hydration and soothes inflammation. You can see why this is considered one of the most sought-after ingredients of 2024.