After years of gel manicures, my nails are dry, brittle and flaky—here’s what top techs advise for a total reset

For those of us who are long-time nail art fans and will never go without a fortnightly manicure appointment, the likelihood that our nails are in a sub-par state is high. I've been getting my nails done for years and years, every 2-4 weeks without fail—following all of the nail trends. Starting with gel and moving onto extensions then BIAB, my nails are never bare. But the beautiful milky builder gel I currently have on hides a dirty little secret: my nails are paper thin and pretty damn sad.

Every now and again, we all need a nail reset: some time off from polishes, removals and UV lamps. And—desperate to restore my nails to their former glory—I reached out to a couple of top nail artists to discover their tips for doing it right.

If you're unsure whether you need a nail reset, give them a quick once-over. At their bare state, do they look and feel brittle, soft, cracked and/or thin? Do they bend and break easily? If the answer is yes, you would likely benefit from taking a breather.

Damaged nails can be caused by all sorts of factors; for example, hormones and nutritional deficiencies can certainly play a part, as can our lifestyle choices, from cleaning without gloves to biting. Most notable, of course, is the way we treat our nails (or get them treated) when we have manicures. The use of extensions with strong glue or harsh, regular removals with acetone and buffing galore can over time weaken the nail's structure and its overall health.

With that in mind, here are five easy steps to take when your nails need a little T.L.C.

1. Go bare for a while

There are mixed opinions on whether you need to totally "take a break" from products like gel, and let your natural nails go bare and breathe for a minute. Many nail artists would tell you this isn't necessary if you are getting your appointments done with reputable manicurists, but I would argue my nails only fully heal when they are in their natural state for an extended period of time. Even a couple of weeks can help with maintenance and overall health in my experience.

There are other incentives to do this too. Metta Francis, London nail technician and founder of Nails by Mets, notes that "If your nails are in a bad state, gel polish or enhancements won't last long—it's like painting over a cracked wall." For this reason, you're better off taking a break to help future manicures last far longer and look better. "And if your nails are completely damaged and weak, I'd recommend taking the length down completely, and starting from scratch," she adds.

When you are ready to go back to your nail salon, just ensure you are going somewhere that is safe and professional, and that has a gentle removal process, rather than one that scrapes at the nails harshly and unnecessarily.

Remember, most of the damage from nail appointments comes from incorrect removal. I'd recommend opting for BIAB (builder in a bottle) too, as this helps to form a protective layer over nails.

2. Invest in nourishing products

Whether you take a break or not, you need to maintain a good care routine to build back the nail's structure and strength. "Use nail clippers to reduce length and a glass nail file to smooth the edges and shape," advises Francis. "Avoid over-buffing the natural nail, or even skip it, unless necessary."

In terms of strengthening products, the nail artist recommends Essie To The Rescue UV Gel Damage Repair Nail Treatment, as it is excellent at strengthening and protecting natural nails, and also has a sheer pink finish which complements all skin tones.

Francis also likes the BioSculpture Ethos Lavender Base (a "nail polish style nail strengthener which helps restore weak, damaged nails") and Kure Bazaar's Le Vernis Durcisseur, which she says is a "Nail polish-style nail hardener with an exclusive patented complex recognised for its hardening effectiveness." It's worth noting that this comes in transparent, as well as two natural shades to suit warmer and cooler skin tones.

Japanese & Korean Gel Nail Artist Alex Philamond also recommends the Nailberry Açai Nail Elixir, which he says is his "go-to treatment... for nail rehab journeys."

"Nail and cuticle oil is also a must to help condition nails and keep them flexible," continues Francis. "Think of it like conditioning your hair—skip this step and your hair is more dry, brittle and prone to breaking. Nails are also made of keratin and need love." She recommends the CND Rescue RxX, which is a daily keratin treatment: "It's a brilliant repair oil that replenishes the nail and helps reinforce the natural nail."

Personally, I also love Chanel's serum oil, which is as stylish as it is practical. Finish your routine with a hydrating hand cream like Aesop's, and you're good to go.

3. Make some key lifestyle changes

As well as investing in your topical nail care routine, it's worth making some practical, lifestyle changes if you're serious about a nail reset.

Some, like always wearing rubber gloves when washing up the dishes or cleaning, are easy. Taking this precaution protects the nail not only from potentially harmful ingredients but also keeps water out of the layers in the nail plate, which can cause peeling and flaking.

Other changes, such as nutritional ones, are more of a long-term investment. For healthy nails, ensure you are getting enough protein, iron, zinc and healthy fats. Incorporating these into your diet is usually preferable, but supplements can also help with any deficiencies. If you are concerned you may be deficient in something that is causing your nails to break (along with having an impact on the hair), it's worth seeing your GP or a nutritionist.

4. Try a professional in-salon treatment

While using things like nail hardeners, cuticle oils and hand creams are essential, they may only go so far if your nails are in real peril.

Both nail artists I spoke with recommended speaking with your manicurist to see what they can do for you in terms of in-salon treatments with more of a professional, deep-reaching edge. "A rejuvenating treatment will be best to help the keratin re-strengthen from the outside inwards," says Philamond.

Francis agrees: "To restore nails to health, I'd recommend professional-only nail treatment IBX. It works from within to help repair the keratin and strengthen the nail. Results are seen immediately and unlike topical nail strengtheners, there's no product left on the nail (as it penetrates it) so nail polish, gel polish or enhancements can be applied over the top."

She adds: "If they need extra strength and simply can't go without gel, I'd recommend BioSculpture's Conditioning Gel, when they're next in the salon. It is an intense base gel repair treatment, which restores dry, damaged and distressed nails and as it's a gel, it will provide more strength and protection than a nail polish on nail strengthener."

5. Don't forget the sun protection

I am 100% guilty of forgetting to apply sunscreen to those all-important "forgotten" areas. From the tops of my ears to my toes, I have experienced sunburn in the weirdest places because of impatience and, well, laziness.

Unsurprisingly, one place many of us consistently fail to protect is our hands. Wearing sun protection here keeps your fingers and nails looking and feeling youthful and fresh. But it also helps to shield against UV light from in-salon lamps, which may have the potential to cause damage when used consistently. Certain brands such as Hello Sunday sell SPF hand creams for as little as £10.